There be world different in primocanes in 2011 they be straight and tall 2010 they get 2 foot start to been over after 2010 season lower wires not need there after. Surflan and simazine mix good preemmergent after soil setial by rain I use atazine same as simazine surflan high cost just take care small weed seed. you only need V trellis one wire on each side going to have been that back to pick in 2011 floricanes you have longer cane than most people on this forum because long growing season. Two tablespoon 10-10-10 on 2 side plant first every month first one may 1st last one september 1st total 5 applications 1 foot off from plant growth stop about Oct 20 because cool temperatures harding off come very soon after 20th oct. winter kill almost impossible in zone8 so no need exspect that kind damage. When have mountains south your location its different story. But as arkanasa unvercity says all new planting need suppilment iron liquid iron cheat you need quart sprayed in straight stream each side plant this above any soil test later years 3 years down road its go by direction of soil test. Soil applyed nitrogen units for zone 8 is 125 units to max out production because of 34 percent nitrogen I used 68 units twice on grown plants first 68 units at 5 percent bloosom and then 14 day before end harvest. July first for last 68 units. In september and october you can have as much growth as all rest seasons plants double in september october in zone 8. Here is a link that might be useful: sweet berry farms a link you may like

I've wondered about this question too. With ordinary plants in potting soil, the risk of over-fertilizing is that as the water in the soil is taken up by the plant or evaporates, the concentration of fertilizer salts can increase greatly. At some point the osmotic pressure of the water and fertilizer surrounding the roots can interfere with water uptake by the roots and possibly damage the roots. With mounted orchids though, I haven't seen any information on what happens physiologically when watering with fertilizer. It seems three things are going on: (1) the roots are absorbing water into the velamen, (2) the roots are absorbing fertilizer ions, and (3) water is evaporating into the surrounding air. I would assume that you would want all of the fertilizer to be absorbed before all of the water on the surface of the roots is gone. Otherwise there would be a thin, dry coating of all the residual fertilizer on the roots. So the question is how fast roots can absorb fertilizer - anyone know? It would seem that for that reason, it would be bad to use any fertilizer at all when the air is warm and dry, since the water on the roots would evaporate too fast.

In my opinion, you can plant them in the ground now. It needs more then just morning frost to harm roses. If temps are above 26 deg F (-3C), your roses should be fine. Olga

I know it has been over a year it looks like, but any chance you still have some that need a home?