Hi Scott, It would save me a tremendous amount of space and make me extremely glad if I could fit all 4 varieties into a single 30' x 30' circle area dedicated to the 4-in-1 tree's life-long spread. I want to bounce still a couple of potential complications with this senario, all of which may be resolvable. And believe me: I am willing to be vigilant and careful in maintaining the tree's 4-way balance if it turns out that I decide to things this way. 4 Separate rootstocks/cultivars in one hole: 1. Peach trees are, even when left unrestricted, smaller trees with smaller trunk and root systems then American persimmons. If I give each cultivar its respective 1/4 room to spread its foliage, I fear that each tree will struggle to obtain enough solar sourced energy to support itself; although, one point could be to note that pruning will keep the trunk and roots small and potentially/hopefully proportionate to each tree's respective trunk/root-stem/needs. The 4+ major scaffolds arising from the base of the peach, cherry, wild-growing persimmon, etc. are sharing the same nutrients via the same root-system. If I ever decide to let the tree grow to full form and size, the 4 trunks would grow so large and strive to get away from the other trunks that they would fall down. 2. Jerry Lehman convinced me that it is not likely that American persimmons would properly inosculate, that instead of fusing they would bruise and rot - specifically American persimmons, not all trees. This doesn't, however, have anything to do with spacing the four trees in the same hole 20" apart. 3. However, it seems to me pretty feasible: which is to carefully keep the 4 trees in relative 1/4-balance within the 4-way circle. 4. Your description of that cherry tree above makes me think that we are talking about not many trees in the same hole, but a single tree bearing various root stocks in-grafted? Is that what you recommend? I've been told that persimmons are notorious from dropping former limbs when new ones are added. Let me know which situation you recommend for me: 4 trees in one hole or should I do a multi-graft tree - if I could do the later and be secure that it would work, I could just keep my 4 saplings for the future purpose of being the scion bank for the multi-graft tree. I keep hearing that I shouldn't do a multi-graft persimmon tree. I just got my persimmons in the mail and I quickly put them in the ground pending what I finally decide upon. I really appreciate discussing my options on this with you - at least when I do choose a plan, I'll have considered practically every option. Thanks, Steve

Thanks hman. It's fanned about 6 inches from a white painted metal garage. Maybe some condensation in the morning dripped off of the eave and magnified the sun.

The insects in pics 2&3 look like giant bark aphids, Longistigma caryae. They don't normally infest cherries but perhaps the tree is stressed for another reason and is just vulnerable to insect predation. Typically any sort of garden treatment for aphids will control these pests - a strong steam of water, hort oil, neem oil, insecticidal soap, etc. I can't see the raised brown lesions well enough to determine if they are more than just normal cherry bark lenticels, although they look a bit too regularly spaced for lenticels. Is there any sign of a sawdust-looking substance at the base of the tree or hanging from any of these lesions? That could indicate borers, a common cherry issue. Is the tree otherwise healthy? Good foliage development, proper flowering, no stem or tip dieback? Black knot usually presents in the branches first and moves down into the trunk when the disease is well established. Any swollen, blackened nodes in visible in the branches?

It does look a lot like leaf spot. At this time of year, nothing you can spray will have any effect. And the tree will be dropping all its leaves soon enough anyway :-) The fungal spores can overwinter on fallen leaves so cleaning them up (be very thorough) and destroying (not composting) should go a long way in preventing recurrence next season. And I'd suggest you read up on this pathogen so you are aware of the conditions that encourage its development (wet springs/summers). Chlorothalonil (Daconil) is a recommended fungicide for this problem. Spray just as leaf buds start to unfurl and again two weeks after flowering. Cherry Leaf Spot Fact Sheet