Yes.....roughly :-) When a specific clematis blooms does tend to indicate a pruning group (that's often one of the ways suggested to determine how to prune an unidentified vine) but as BorS suggests, the line sometimes become blurred. In general, early blooming vines (before May) bloom on old growth and require minimal to no pruning. If pruning is desired, it is best do so as soon as possible after flowering so as to allow sufficient time for flowering growth to develop for the next season. Midseason bloomers -those that flower anywhere from early May into late June/early July (weather determined) - are most often considered to be pruning group II's. These bloom primarily on old growth and should be pruned lightly once established. Not all group II's will offer a later rebloom; in fact, this group is sometimes subdivided into two groups to indicate those that rebloom and may require an additional light pruning after first bloom flush and those that do not. Late season bloomers - late June and after - are generally pruning group III's and bloom on new growth only and tend to respond best to hard pruning. In mild winter climates and those where the seasons tend to blend and are less distinct - like the Pacific Northwest - you do encounter some overlaps, but in general bloom time does correlate to pruning guidelines. And it is always a good idea to hard prune any new vine regardless of flowering time or pruning group for at least the first one or two growing seasons to aid in establishment and to encourage multiple stemming from the root crown.

It's normal for males to dominate before females start to bloom. Even then you will see pretty much one female to every ten males. To the poster who thinks his male flowers are dying off: all pumpkin flowers bloom for only a few hours every morning before they die off. As for not cutting the male flowers, I disagree. I've been growing pumpkins going on ten years now and if there are no female flowers to pollinate, then I will cut the male flowers just before they start to shrivel. I've yet to get a diseased plant doing this. I cut the male flowers because they are delicious to eat. So if you don't get pumpkins, you can enjoy cooking and eating the male flowers throughout the growing season. I cut off the stem, gently rinse them under cold water and saute them after dredging through a thin whole-wheat pancake batter - yum! BTW. I should mention that pumpkins are very difficult to hand pollinate. You'r e better off putting out bee loving flowers early in the season in order to get your location established on the honey bees routes. Ants do a pretty good job also, so if you see ants around your pumpkin vines, then do not try to exterminate them. If you do want to hand pollinate, then use a very soft artists brush and lightly stroke the pistol of a male plant (you should not see tons of pollen - in this case a little is too much), then lightly stroke the stamen of the female plant (again a little is too much). Even then you are not likely to succeed with hand pollination.

Hi, I'm having same problem with the females yellowing and shriveling before blooming on a couple of my plants. I've been told it may be the heat. As for the PM, I have that problem too. I've lost leaves but new ones grow in. My plants with PM are growing pumpkins, it seems successfully. I've been spraying with a fungicide once a week or after heavy rain. It doesn't cure it but it does control it. If you are uncomfortable with fungicide, I know some people spray and control PM with a milk or baking soda mixture. If you pick up a pump sprayer you make treating for PM a pretty quick job.

Cool video indeed. I have wanted to make a time lapse video for a long time but have always felt that the process would just be so tedious. Does your camera have a time lapse function or did you edit the video? You have inspired me to drag out my seriously underused video camera. GG plant sex is pretty darn filthy when you look at it. I think some of the coolest orchids are the ones that trick male insects into mating with them. Some orchids even produce the exact sex pheromones needed to attract their pollinators. Some of the South American orchids from the same group as the Catasetums produce oils that male Euglossa bees collect and smear on themselves so that they can attract females, like sexy cologne. Hoyas are not quite as advanced as orchids but the lock and key type mechanism for Asclepiad pollination is pretty darn cool in itself. Quinn you should try a Catasetum because I am sure you would love them. You can't get much easier than wet + fertilizer in the summer and completely dry and sunny in the winter. Anyways they are easier to keep happy than those often temperamental Angraecoids. Mike Here is a link that might be useful: Ophrys