any syggestions for hardy hydrangea in southern wisconsin
SBIT45
19 years ago
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karen_w
19 years agoRelated Discussions
Best Plum Varieties for Southern Wisconsin??
Comments (5)I would suggest a couple of options just from the standpoint of marketability. One would be to go with wild fruits/ slow foods and use prunus americana aka "wild plum" or "American plum". They would be the easiest to grow and it seems to me that their only drawback in fresh eating (astringency) would be an advantage to winemaking. Another advantage is that you can find these trees just about anywhere and they are inexpensive. A second option would be to evoke exotic flavors. The Lorraine region of France is known for its mirabelle plums that are famously made into brandy. But they have to be wine before brandy, so you could claim to be following French traditions. http://www.raintreenursery.com/catalog/productdetails.cfm?ProductID=C205 http://www.raintreenursery.com/catalog/productdetails.cfm?ProductID=C208 Finally, the plum wine that you see in stores is usually made from prunus armeniaca mume aka "japanese plum" which is actually a type of apricot. It is, unfortunately, not a very hardy plant -- zone 6 or 7 I think....See Moresource for native Wisconsin blackberries
Comments (47)(zone 3~4) Sorry for the late response after your prompt one, my last semester of college was a rough one and I don't get online much now that I am out (hopefully....still waiting on the diplomas to be mailed out). Anyways, I should clarify a couple of my statements. Yes, Chester takes a lot of damage in this region my plants are young but the person I got them (I'm in a cold valley and she is on a hill) has had flowers every year that I have been there (said she had no damage at all a few years ago when we had an extremely warm winter). I have dozens of flowers on Triple Crown this year which is comparable to Chester but sadly my Darrow has yet to produce a single flower and I have had it planted longer. Part of this is the effects of erect vs semi-erect habit (Chester gets a little more protection from snow than Darrow does here). Darrow may very well be more hardy in your region than Chester but for me it is not. I'm actually tempted to try some zone 7 trailing brambles (have tayberry/boysenberry/newberry), with mulch and snow cover (if were lucky enough to keep it through the winter like we have the last two years) they could be brought to flower, all ya need is one, if the cross works.... For self-incompatibility I am mostly pulling from memory of a bramble breeding book I rented for a summer and have not physically confirmed this with wild types. But I believe the reds had most of the self-incompatibility bred out of them. Also, since blacks generally only have limited primocane fruiting it seems likely that the ancestry of Niwot's wild black raspberry parent had a cultivated red in it's background or even a wild red somewhere which lead to the self-incompatibility of its sibling release (the first wild purple I remember finding had/has pretty decent primocane fruiting have used it in a fair amount of my crosses). The germination rates I mentioned of 30~50% is with scarification and several months of stratification i peat moss. However, before my last post I had planted some stratified but unscarred open pollinated blackberry seeds, all were under-ripe which may be of importance. Prime Jim and Prime Ark 45 seeds were also froze and frosted numerous times (which keep them from fully ripening). Black Satin had a poor but acceptable level of germination for this discussion, Prime Jim was the worst of the three with only 3 germination out of a couple hundred seeds but Prime Ark 45 had several hundred germination out of one to two thousand seeds perhaps a 10 to 15 percent germination rate. So it can work but genotype may play a big roll in germination rates of scarred seeds. The ripeness and frost/freeze would also play a role. Also for long-term storage seeds would not kept "moist" or be stored in peat moss but I would think that the proper humidity level would be crucial (think they have been stored for 20 yrs)....See MoreClematis in Wisconsin - Newbie to planting this
Comments (13)How sturdy should the trellis be? Sturdy enough to be able to pull the old vines off of it each year assuming you are planting type III clematis. I have no clue what plastic deer fencing is or how resilient it is but I would go with the fencing I suggested in your earlier post--wire fencing that is coated with a green vinyl coating. Lattice made of what type of material? The lattice that is locally available in my area is held together with brads or staples and in my estimation will not stand the test of time. As far as whether clematis will cling to them, sure they will when the side shoots get long enough to wrap themselves around the lattice pieces. Our thoughts on how the wire fencing may look are immaterial. What matters is what you think! The vast majority of the time during the growing season the fencing will be covered with the vines which will hide it. No one can tell you with any certainty how large the clematis will get the first year. That will depend on how large the clematis are that you purchase, how well you tend to them, the length of the growing season in your area, and countless of other factors. Clematis are not immediate gratification plants--they take time to get established and get in full growing mode. I personally think that whatever you use should be a permanent addition to your fence. Putting up and removing any such fixture on your fence is going to put a multitude of holes in your fencing and over time it will look bad....See MoreShrub suggestions for Northern Wisconsin
Comments (5)the lack of sun... is going to make whatever you plant there.. lack vigor.. meaning.. very slow growing.. not to mention your short growing season ... so unless you buy huge plants to start with ... its going to be a very long time before you accomplish your goal ... and by the time you pay for said huge plants .. you may as well think outside the box ... is there some reason you couldnt put in a couple 4 x 4s ... and a section of wood privacy fencing .. and start enjoying the privacy that evening?? ken https://duckduckgo.com/?q=patio+wood+privacy+fencing&t=ffcm&iar=images&iax=images&ia=images ps: also ... instead of looking at your problem from where the camera was ... move that chair around your patio .. and sit in it.. and see if you can see that house from every angle.. it might not be as big a problem as you see from the camera ...if you did go with the fence section ... i would leave a standard gate width at the house ... to make it easy to go around that side of the house;.... you dont need a fortress wall there.. just a site block ... in other words.. make it a free standing thing.. not a part of the house ...and of course.. in the mean time.. you could plant some shrubs out into the lawn .. so in 10 years.. when the fence is rotting.. the shrubs will be there .......See Moregrannymarsh
19 years agopitimpinai
19 years agoSBIT45
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19 years ago
Kat SE Wisconsin z5
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