They are perfectly edible early, and taste a lot like a yellow summer squash. For a winter squash, it's actually one of the best I've had eaten early. Pumpkins, for example, are edible, but not nearly as good. I've even eaten a few red kuri very early, smaller than the size of my fist, because I had to trim the plant back, and they had already set where I trimmed. At this small stage you can just pull them off and eat them raw. Of course, red kuri gets even better if you let them mature, and that's when they really show their unique texture and flavors that aren't there when eaten early. If you pick it early, just realize you are getting a much different squash than the mature version, and if you have them, I'd keep at least a few on the vine to eat them at their peak. I live in zone 9b, and I plant squash with the intention to pick most of them early, and by early, I mean sometimes as soon as the squash reaches full size. In my zone, red kuri simply explodes, and would cover my yard if I let it take it's natural course. The plants I are jurassic, with leaves far bigger than my head. The plant always grows first, and sets fruit first of anything else. This year it even set fruit before my arugala grew, which is to say, this thing is the largest fastest growing plant I've ever seen. Because it's so fast and productive, we grow enough to harvest them at all stages. You need a lot of space, but if you have it, this plant will keep you rolling in squash all season.

Wow, Farmerdilla, those are gorgeous looking pumpkins. I've picked one of mine after looking at your top photo. I've noticed that the green spots that were covering the pumpkin had turned buff color and that the stem that was feeding it started turning brown without drying. The final clue was the whitish covering that started to form on the pumpkin. I've got two more pumpkins that are showing the same signs of maturity and I'll give them one more week. Seveal pumpkins are still growing. I'm willing to keep those on the vine until early August and then I'll be forced to remove the vines. Our seasons are long but my beds are a valuable real estate and August-November is the prime season for more winter squashes. Thanks again for your advice and posting the photos!

Thanks everyone, I will be out beginning my harvest today. But there are many pumpkins just starting so hopefully I have many more to look forward to. Football43013, this is only my second year growing pumpkins so I am no expert, I break most of the rules of pumpkin growing so this may be some of my trouble. Most everything I have learned has come from this forum and a few websites. So if anyone else would like to weigh in I won't be offended. The main trouble I have with preventing SVB or squash bugs or even the cuc. beetles is most insecticidal methods will kill your beneficial insects (pollinators). I keep 2 bee hives on my property as well and do not want to do anything to harm them. Most say to rotate your crop so it is not in the same location each year. I have no choice there, not enough room. I keep diligent in watching for eggs of SVB and squash bugs early on and either pull them with duct tape or torch them with a grill lighter. Once they have established I spray squash bugs of any stage directly with a mild castile soap and water mixture which kills them either immediately or within 60 seconds. Most say any soap will do, castile soap is just what I have found works for me. As for the SVB I slit the vine when I find them present and destroy the borer and bury the vine. Then take extra care to bury several more areas of the same vine with good dirt to promote more root growth to support the plant and subsequent fruit. I pretty much ignore the cuc. beetles but spray what I see as I am getting the squash bugs. I have also heard using row covers to protect plants early but I believe many of the squash bug problems come from larvae left in soil so Im not so sure that will work for them. I still however managed to harvest over 80 pumpkins last year for my small 8'x 16' dirt mound patch and have expanded that this year by another 10' so we will see. I over plant and deal with the consequences. What zone are you in? I know the farther north the less trouble but I'm in WI so that has not helped me much.

gal gave you a link.. i suggest you read it ... the key is sunshine.... even in FL.. the sun declines in intensity ... and the days get shorter ... and this severely limits what gal calls the hot season crops .... and you might find out.. that many veg are such .... and that is why ... you start seed in early spring.. when the soil is warm enough for germination ... so the little things.. can grow a root mass... so that when the heat of summer hits ... they can go full bore crazy in growth and production ... at 60 days old.. two months... you planted precisely at the end of said season ... now i am sure things are a bit different in FL.. compared to my MI experience ... but i wanted to give you some simple explanations of the theory.. well at least i hope simple.. lol ... if someone comes along with better deep south info.. then what they say ... you were.. most likely.. 180 degrees off the proper planting time.. meaning.. is you went 6 moths further back.. and had planted in march.. you would have been a lot closer to success ... and i bet.. in FL.. you could have gone even earlier than that .... and do understand.. most of this theory.. is NOT specific to gourds/pumpkins .... ken