What exactly are the objections RE leyland cypress. Aside from the slight chance of cankers and their large size, what bugs you all so much about these? Because they do well here and even though some morons plant them in the wrong place they could just as easily do the same with japanese cedar/ cryptomeria or eastern redcedar or deodaras or any number of recommended species. The leyland is non-invasive, easy to grow, rapidly growing and the dark green foliage is truly unrivaled especially in winter where they hold the color perfectly. I'm not saying to use for a windbreak or to plant 5 feet from the house but for for a mixed screen or specimen, what pray tell is the problem? And there better be more than one problem with the fuss you all always make about these.

What zone you are in? Are the plants dormant now? I'm not a sage expert but in general... When you move a plant, digging it up causes loss of root mass. This means the plant has a more difficult time taking up water. Frequently plants wilt under this condition. Relatively speaking, a small number of roots cannot take up enough water to support a large number of leaves. When this happens, it helps the plant by pruning it back after the move, equalizing root mass and leaf mass. I've done this before and the plant stopped wilting and recovered. The next year it was full and looked great. So based on that, it may actually be easier on the plants to move them now before there is a large number of leaves. You shouldn't have a problem with wilting. Just my opinion.

I've been gardening for years and years....but just recently got into serious "hosta-ing" as the trees have grown...in the last 6 or 7 years... At first I just planted with the thought to dividing later when they got too crowded to be pretty....A huge job if you let it go like I did! Then I realized how fery different a really mature hosta looks from one that has merely been in place for 3 years and gotten nice and full, so now I am trying to plan my plantings with certain hosta that will never be moved and I don't intend to prune away at them to reduce their size. So I try to plant some things where they will stay and fill in for the meanwhile with things that will eventually go someplace else when they get crowded. I learned my lesson when I planted Elegans and Sum and Substance 5 feet apart....and had to move the S and S! So now there are a couple of Krossa Regal, blue Angel a couple of Elegans, at least 3 September Sun, Squash Casserole, Gold Regal and a couple of June and Fire and ice and Night B4 Christmas that I don't plan to ever move!...I hope! LOL! Then there's the "way down back" bed that I planted to look good now...it has an Elegans and S and S...as well as Clifford's comet and sting ray..minuite man and revolution, paul's Glory and lots of fillers like antioch, August Moon, gold Edger Birchwood gold etc.... Haven't yet decided where the "bones" of that bed are....but I'm thinking.. Linda C

This weekend I moved several of them down here in hot Oklahoma along with volunteers of little bluestem, sideaoats grama & blue grama . I've done this three times now because I'm massing in areas and need grass plugs. The small plants move very easily. Water first. Then carefully dig the plant keeping some soil intact around the roots, the roots are not real deep, only about 3 inches or so and you want a little root ball with soil. Then, replant and water well. I never trim back foliage on blue fescue, just the seed heads when they dry which I pull out rather than cut. Blue fescue goes dormant & resents too much water in summer so don't over do it.