Sorry, probably best to move it for the long term health of the tree. You can look into building it in a raised bed or something also. Mangoes have decent sized roots when mature so as far away from the canal as you can manage is better for it in the long run. How cold does it get where you live? You might be able to put a more salt-tolerant fruit tree in its place.

Do you have the rose in potting soil or garden soil? Roses in pots should be in potting mix. Garden soil is too "heavy" for a plant in a pot. Are the roots growing out of the bottom of the pot? If so, you may need to move it to a bigger pot. If you just recently repotted the rose, and used new potting mix, the plant shouldn't need any fertilizer for a couple of months. Adding Miracle Grow can be too much for the rose. I also would not add any compost either. Has the temperature recently risen lately and it is hot where you are located? You might want to move the plant where it gets some shade in the afternoon. We are going to be 108--109 for the next week or so, so some afternoon shade for the plants may be in order at my house. I would re-pot the rose in some nice new potting soil and keep it in the shade for a couple of days so it won't go shocky on you. See if that helps.

Where have I seen that? Ha! Some of my original hydrangeas in the house are also starting to show some of your symptoms. The spots on the leaves are called leaf spot, a fungal infection properly called Cercospora Leaf Spot. It is very common and not something to worry about. It produces those orange-ish/purple-ish/brown-ish spots. I have it on some of those old shrubs too. Overhead watering is the usual cause. Since the fungus is found in many locations, it is easy to catch. Try watering the soil early in the mornings instead of watering the leaves. Some of that browning of the leaves is probably moisture issues; the plant leaves start showing browning of the edges and the browning moves inwards. Easy to happen on a new shrub since it does not yet have a large root system. Increase the amt of water in the Summer and reduce it when temps moderate in the Fall. The yellowing of the leaves with no dark green veins suggests that the plant is getting too much sun but, if this is a florist hydrangea, it is possible that this year's leaves are very sun sensitive. In future years, they will be more tolerant of the sun. If you can temporarily provide some shade during the hottest part of the summer days, that will help. When Fall arrives and the leaves dry out, carefully cut the string that connects the leaves to the stem (do n-o-t cut the stem) and dispose of the leaves in the trash. That should help prevent spreading the spores everywhere. The blooms did not stick around because of all these factors, collectively called transplant shock. In the future, the blooms should do better. However, be aware that this shrub is not a reblooming hydrangea so, you get one set of blooms in the Spring and these stay on until the Fall. That is it. It does not flower again until the next growing season in 2017. Your shrub should produce invisible flower buds at the end of the stems between July-August. The buds then open in Spring 2017 so, try not to prune the stems on or after July-ish. New shrubs usually have those round fertilizer pellets in the potting mix. If yours does, there was no need to fertilize this year. Next Spring, give it 1/2 to 1 cup of cottonseed meal, organic compost or composted manure. You can also use a slow-release, general purpose fertilizer like Osmocote 10-10-10. Add coffee grounds if you also want but stop fertilizing at the end of June so the plant will go dormant at its proper time. Mopheads, in general, are not very reliable bloomers in cold zones because winter can kill the stems if the temperatures get too low or if there is lack of water while the plant is dormant. Also, if temperatures stay warm enough long enough to awaken the dormant plant, the stems can be killed if temperatures suddenly come crashing down. As a result, many people who have mopheads apply winter protection in the Fall so the flower buds will survive winter or late frosts that come your way in Spring. Do what springwood_gardens suggested or do forum searches for winter protection if you want more info; or check the links below. Here is information about some hydrangea leaf issues: http://www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/A/ANR-1212/ANR-1212.pdf Here is information about hydrangeas; it is a great website: http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/

No fertilizer? Pot is large; other roses thriving in your pot soil recipe. That eliminates everything but drainage. Maybe Peach Swirl needs a different pot soil formula--like a high quality potting soil (Black Gold, for example) instead of compost. What's in your compost? Any chance of herbicide contamination in the compost (though leaves don't look like Round Up damage). Diane