My Kieffer pear from Home Depot in Hooksett, NH went into the ground in Manchester (Zone 5b) in late spring 2017, Right now, fall 2018, it still has 13 of its 18 pears. They are large and basically unblemished. Squirrels and birds attacked my plums, peaches, and apples, but not the pears, so far. The Luscious pears were a bit too ripe almost a month ago, but these Kieffer pears are not ripe yet. They are tender enough to bite now, but not yet sweet, here. Not bad, but not sweet yet. I will leave them a couple more weeks. My tree was about 8 ft tall when I planted it, and is about 12 feet tall now, in about 18 months from purchase. Since my Heritage raspberries have gotten 10' tall, i suspect this pear tree also will get taller than predicted. That's it, the skinny thing in the center of the picture, as of September 9, 2018.

Enigmamachine42, i read your other post here and not to cinfuse you here are your options once you move into your own place. Grow tree in ground not naturally and each late fall dig trench longer than hieght and width of tree, get some twine and bring bracnhes together like a freshly wrapped christmas tree, for added protection in our cold zones then wrap with burlap, dig around base of tree enough to push tree downwards into that trench, cover the tree with plywood on top (makes it easier to scoop up dirt with shovel and not damage tree in spring)then on top of that fill with enough dirt to make a nice mound op top yes it should look similar to a fresh buried body in cemetery after wards this is how my uncle buried his 1 tree for many many years in zone 5 a lot of work but he never lost it. Other option grow inground naturally and mound some hay or something similar to insulate base of tree then again use twine to bring branches close together there very flexible and wrap it very well with burlap and other insulating type material to protect it from the brutal winter winds and cold. My favorite and easiest option for me in zone 5 is grow in large containers and when after a couple of good frost in the 20s i simply wheel them in my attached garage and throw bed sheets to keep the sun off them that shines thru top panel of my garage they stay this way until good weather arrives. The larger you want your tree the more work it is to bury and or wrap above ground and should be considered in your plans. These are probably the 3 ways most use in the colder type zones. If i remember correctly my relatives grew their tree somewhere between 10 to maybe 14 feet at the tallest and spent most of the morning and afternoon with my cousins preparing it for the winter to me thats just to much i can do so i use the garage method and large containers here is a picture of a few of them on my patio, sorry for showing them again for those who have seen them recently, but this is to give you an idea of what they can look like growing this way in season and stored in garage. Best of Luck.

I just dug out my fig tree( Neveralla 10" height) from the ground and potted with potting soil in a 3 gallon pot. I mixed about 10% Perlite with the soil. I realized the ground site only has 4 hours Sunlight which will not sufficient. Now I have freedom to move the pot around to get maxmium Sunlight exposure. Now it come to watering. How should I water the fig tree in the pot. Do I underwater it ? How do I know when to water ? The tree just leaf out. My backyard is very windy in the afternoon wind gust up to 20mph.

Thank you all so very much. It is truly appreciated. I have decided to do the following. Mexican Sycamore, Apple, one Apricot, and Royal Empress seeds. My neighbors donÂt have anything and all think I am wasting my money. I wonÂt be doing a fig. I am afraid that it would be useless. The fact that I have an organic vegetable garden is good. I have really black soil already. Some of the tree saplings will be planted and fenced it there. I also have a well so water isnÂt a factor as yet. My vegetable garden is 25 feet by 70 so there is room. Now I am tilling another 40 by 70 for more vegetables. The success of this one now still growing is fantastic. I have about 200 pounds of blue Hubbards, maybe 150 pounds of butternut squash, some 20 small acorn squash, (donÂt know why they stayed so small) have to figure that one out next year, a freezer full of zucchini, string beans, yellow squash, and radishes still growing, so figure that out? Puzzles me on the radishes. Some are flowering, so are hard as a rock, and some are still eatable. I also have a lot of lettuce still. I planted several varieties, but no Boston Iceberg. I have as yet a 10 by 10 foot cluster of carrots and another of beets. One of the beets was so big I couldnÂt place my hands around it completely. It was huge. We ate and gave plenty already but I still have to harvest them and put them away for the winter. The butternut will stay on the ground until it turns completely yellow. The blue hubbards are still growing but turning blue now that the nights are so cold. I picked one that weighed 15.5 pound and gave it to the neighbor that gave me the seeds. There are many more bigger than that. I had only one cross with the butternut and it weighs 19 pounds. The rest are in the garden waiting. The zucchini are still prolific. I picked another 10 large ones today. Amazing how they love it up here. My tomatoes are just now starting to do well. That is really strange. I will pick them green and place in a cool dark place to eat as they ripen. The cold nights must be a factor with them somehow. I used horse, steer, a little chicken, and thatÂs it for the manure. I didnÂt use anything else at all. I watered lightly every day. About 15 minutes at night and sometimes a little again in the early am. Usually just before the sun was completely up. So, the reason for telling this here is because I am so happy to have a great soil for next year and I feel that the right trees will make it with little effort. Once again I must give you all a great big thank you for your time, advice, and help. Nantinki