Is there a way to keep this lovely tree from producing fruit?
grdnluvr
17 years ago
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pitangadiego
17 years agoRelated Discussions
Best Ways to Keep Deer from New Trees
Comments (13)I've got over a 100 trees planted in pasture near forest which is teeming with deer. I've used Plantskydd over the last 4 years during the winter and found it to be the longest lasting repellent for preventing buck rub. If you paint it on the trunks and a few scaffold branches with a brush or cloth glove you'll still see it (and I've found it still works) over 2 months later. I also combine it with spiral trunk wraps for the larger trees during the late fall and winter and have started using harvestman's fencing method on younger trees so that if I forget to reapply (or if a really hungry deer comes along) I don't complete lose a young tree. The fencing circles might look bad in a backyard but they are nearly invisible from a distance in our pasture. During the growing season, I use Plantskydd alternated with Deer Off (egg, garlic, and capsaicin). Another easy method I've added is to fill cloth bags with milorganite (granular incinerated sludge) and hang one from each tree. These should last a few years and a local orchard (Vintage VA Apples) swears that they drastically reduced their rutting damage using this method. When I tried the bags alone, they did reduce my rutting damage, but I still had some damage. I used Plantskydd with trunk spirals for 2 years (without the milorganite bags) and it completely eliminated the rutting damage if properly reapplied every 2 months. I paint the trunks with splotches of Plantskydd and then apply the spirals in late fall and have found that the spirals protect the trunk applied Plantskydd for 3-4 months. Although I'm sure it reduces the smell of blood from a distance, it probably is enough to repel a buck standing right next to the tree. As noted above, I still paint a few splotches of Plantskydd on scaffolds on non-fence trees at least once in the middle of winter....See Moremy lemon tree produced strange fruit!
Comments (13)Not necessarily, citrange. If this is an Improved Meyer lemon, which is often growen on its own roots, this would be a typical growth form, as the Meyer lemon prefers to grow more like a bush. The other interesting feature of this cultivar is the variability in the shape of the fruit. Some can be very round, others much more lemon-shaped with a nipple on the end. I would say, based on the shape of the tree, and the different shapes of the fruit, as well as saying how much your friends like how very juicy your lemons are, you've got an Improved Meyer lemon, and everything you're seeing is perfectly normal. I would NOT remove any branches. Can you provide some nice, close up photos of the ripe fruits? We can most likely tell by seeing the fruit, if you have a Meyer lemon. John will certainly know :-) Patty S....See MoreDoes anyone actually have a tree that produces 'fruit' up north?
Comments (15)Best bet would be to dig them up and store in winter in a cool but non freezing place to preserve the pstem (Must survive more than one season usually) for blooming if you dont have a warm greenhouse, or large room, but this does not work with all varieties, especially not the Cavendish types (stems die leaving corms), and your summers might be shorter than ours here in Oklahoma. Some types that store well this way with varying degrees of success are Orinoco (Does great), Dwarf Orinoco, Raja Puri, Dwarf Namwah, Musa Icecream. Saba stored well like this too, but I wont see fruit on it, it takes too long, and saba gets huge eventually and probably unmanageable for storage. Here is my tall Orinoco I have fruiting right now at ten feet of stem in zone 7a planted in the ground about April 15th (gets about 20 feet with leaves) that slept under my house bare root last winter at about 45/50F, with no roots, soil, leaves, light, water, etc. (Warning, Orinoco pstems can weigh 100+ pounds, pick a dwarf variety if you have a bad back) It takes about 3 weeks to resume growth in spring, plant the pstem a little deeper the next year to stabilize, and you have to take the time it takes to ripen in consideration for the type you are growing. You have to beat the first frost, and some types take a very long time to ripen, you wont always get fruit due to timing. Its been my experience that Viente Cohol does not overwinter very well indoors, dying back to pot level for me, and re sprouting, and you would need a pretty tall ceiling if you have a mature plant, and very big windows. But it is a short cycle banana, and can fruit and ripen very quickly if you can accommodate it, and worth a try. A banana pstem (visible false stem made of rolled up leaves, like straws inside of straws) will die after fruiting, but the corm/rhizome (The core of the plant) survives and puts up new pups/babies to replace the dead one. With this dig and store method, you get almost instant banana plant, and they look very impressive at about 20 feet (Including leaves) in a couple of months. After six months of storage under the house before planting again....See MoreCucumber replant flowering and producing fruit but keep dying
Comments (10)That's the standard (and excellent) advice about hand pollination. It ALWAYS works. It's a big effort if you have a large bed of cukes, but if you just have one plant, it's easy, and there is absolutely no reason to wait for an insect to decide to help out. Just do it. In that context, a pool cage might be nice, just to keep the bad insect pests off. That being said, the point about leaf burn near pools is a good one. It's well understood that chlorine levels in the air around especially indoor pools can be high, and many people get eye irritation from that. Can't be good for plants....See Moregeorgia_jack
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