Daniel:Lookimg at Brunswick picture i can say is not it. You also stated that it has a better tasting fruit than Your Brown Turkey.You shoud be happy is not Brunswick. Outside nice looking leafes Brunswick doesn't excell in anything.Regards

You can use ACCESS with PHP. Usually PHP is easier and faster than ASP. In my opinion, the leaf shape is not a good filter to identify the fig variety. In the same fig tree, you can find a different shape leaves. After a heavy pruning or when the fig is young, the shape leaves are very different. In Turkey, the main fig producer are using this method developped by Uygun Aksoy : The text below is written in Catalan, lÂIPGRI en publicà la versió defi nitiva, que diferia poc de lÂesborrany original: hi afegia alguns carà cters que consideram de poc valor descriptiu (mides del borró, arrels adventícies, color de la gota de lÂull, adhesió dÂesquames ostiolars, carà cters de les lenticel·les i sensibilitats a factors abiòtics) i dÂaltres que ja ens avançà rem a afegir a la nostra proposta de descriptor (color dÂesquames ostiolars i longitud del peduncle). Aquest descriptor ha estat pensat per a Ficus carica i altres espècies del gènere, i dóna molt de protagonisme a les fi gueres del tipus dÂEsmirna, fet comprensible per a una regió que és capdavantera en la producció mundial dÂaquest tipus de fi gues seques. SÂadapta a un format normalitzat del tipus IPGRI;8 això implica una detallada descripció dÂun elevat nombre de característiques de la cultivar, estandaritzat per a feines de recuperació, conservació, divulgació i utilització de germoplasma. Per tant, completa prou els carà cters morfològics (oferint diverses opcions de resposta), nÂamplia els fi siològics i els agronòmics i, fi nalment, nÂintrodueix de químics i reserva un apartat fi nal per als marcadors bioquímics i moleculars. This is the automatic translation to English. The IPGRI published the final version, which differed little from the original draft: it added some characters that we consider of little descriptive value (sizes of the bud, adventitious roots, color of the drop of the eye, adhesion of ostiol scales, characters of the lenticel·les? and sensitivities to unbiotics factors) and other that already we advanced to add to our proposal of descriptor (color of ostiol scales and length of the stem). This descriptor has been thought for Ficus carica and other species of the genre, and it gives a lot of protagonism to the figs the type of Esmirna, understandable fact for a region that is a leader in the world-wide production of these dried figs type. It adapts itself to a normalized format of the type IPGRI;8 this implies a detailed description of a high number of characteristics of the to grow, standards for works of recovery, conservation, divulging and utilization of germoplasm. Therefore, it completes enough the morphological characters (offering several options of answer), it broadens the physiological end and the agronomic ones and, finally purpose, introduces chemists and reserves a final section for the biochemical and molecular scoreboards. Bon courage, ...

I was taught by the owner of a tea room that the standard is 2 grams per 5.5 oz (which is a standard tea cup). Two grams is about .07 of an ounce. I'm doing the math off the top of my head, but I think it will come out to around 55 cups using those numbers. Of course that's going to vary a little depending on the kind of tea you use and how strong you like your tea. If you don't want to fool with the teaballs or those pesky spring-loaded mesh things, T-Sacs are a nifty invention. They are basically hemp filters big enough to let the tea leaves unfold. I usually use a filter that fits in the cup that Ann sent me, but the T-sacs come in handy at the office (where I'm the only tea drinker) since I can throw the whole thing away with minimal mess. Could you post the link to the tea you had at Biltmore? I'm always on the prowl for good tea. One of my favorites is the Kentucky Blend from Elmwood Inn Teas. We had the pleasure of tea at the Inn a few times before it closed (because the owners got so busy writing tea books and with blending that they had to give up something!) I see the historic building is for sale. Here is a link that might be useful: Elmwood Inn Fine Teas

After spending half an hour on the following post it occurred to me that a houseplant forum search for "nicking" might yield more accurate information. Sure enough, I found several threads containing Al's explanations, but I spent so much time on mine that I refuse to delete it!!!!! Here are a few of the threads. The nicking discussions aren't long but I think Al's post on the first link explains the effects of nicking vs pruning. Use the search box at the top of the page to find even more threads. http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/1458989/fiddle-leaf-fig-question?n=1 http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/1465570/pruning-ficus-lyrata-to-branch?n=24 ******************* My now-superfluous post: Ah, I see; most people seem to call that nicking, not slitting. The reason you haven't found info on it is that few people do it, but Al has gone into it the few times he's been asked. I'll describe it as best I can from what I remember of his posts about it. Anyway, you would use a sharp sterilized (just in case) knife to cut a small horizontal wedge through the cambium (basically the living usually green layer under the bark) right above a leaf node. Nicking (or pruning) above a node stops the inhibitory hormone from the top of the tree from reaching it, letting it respond to hormones that direct it to grow. The same thing happens when you prune. Whether you prune or nick, the amount of back-budding you'll get depends on the plant's condition. IMO, if the stress that caused your ficus to drop leaves still exists, nicking or pruning won't have much (if any) effect so long as the plant is still under the stress that made it drop so many leaves. I'd guess that's because the weakened plant isn't producing the hormones that would stimulate growth above ground. That's been my experience. My ficuses didn't respond at all to tip-pinching last fall when they were still weak, but now after months of proper care and increased spring sunlight they're growing like crazy, including a lot of back-budding far back on its once-bare branches, without any intervention at all from me. I think that's an accurate description of what I've read!