Well, not to be too mean spirited, but, yes, it is a dumb question (your words, not mine). It means just exactly what it says - they are growing on their own roots; they are NOT grafted onto the root stock of another plant. Most roses that you will find in a nursery today are grafted onto Dr. Huey, Multiflora, or some other root stock. Own root roses are growing on their own roots which makes them true, and not suceptible to winter kill or suckering from the host stock. Sometimes, after a few years, in the ground, grafted roses will revert, that is to say, the garfted tops will die, and the root stock will continue to grow and produce an entirely different rose then the one you originally purchased. If there is die back of the top of an own root rose due to cold winter temps, the rose will come back from its roots and be true. I hope you unuderstand this now. I do not fault you for asking what you felt was a dumb question, because asking questions is how we learn. Oh, and never apologise for asking.

in my z5 MI.. the 'pips' are all above ground ... if you look close on a bare root plant .. you will see roots ... and you will see pips/eyes ... there is actually.. a third part.. and that is the potato-like interface between the two.. and that is the crown ... and the crown should be .. basically at ground level ... on smaller plants.. check back in fall.. and make sure they didnt sink ... some hosta are rhizomatic ... they grow on underground runners.. and those are planted differently .. but my best suggestion re planting.. PLANT ROOTS DOWN... they do a lot better that way ... though.. it wont actually stop them.. if you do it the other way .. lol ... in fact.. wait for it.. if you throw on of them on the driveway.. with a small heap of soil.. it will actually grow there ... so dont waste to much energy 'worrying' about them ... and given basic soil that drains.. just try to drown them.. and they will thrive ... come back often.. we are great enablers ... ken ps: i hope that wasnt 20 of one kind.. thats an anathema to my collector bones ....

Sounds like something is going on underground. Maybe some constution debris or old mortar in soil below smaller one, causing poor fertility and more alkaline condition. Also could be planted to deep, or being girdled by it own roots. I'd dig, excavate a large hole, enrich the soil with compost and replant, keeping the crown of the plant slightly above soil line. Or maybe the big one is lower, therefore getting more water. Or maybe they aren't both really ES. Or maybe something else. Ted

I've been propagating by cuttings for a good thirty years now, but still don't pretend to be an expert. The question of rooting in water or a mix is a good one. Rooting in water develops roots with large cells full of water, so when they are then planted in a potting mix, the roots have to change up rather fast in order to take up nutrients and many times they go into shock and die. I prefer to start everything in a soil-less potting mix. I have also found that for some reason I have a much better success rate by using styrofoam cups as the containers. I simply punch a small draining hole in the bottom, then fill with the mix and really water thoroughly. This means watering them until I am positive that they are damp all the way down. Most of my cutting are around six inches in length and I remove all the lower leaves but leave a few of the upper leaves. This is necessary so the cutting will have the leaves to help produce food and will be able to take up nurishment when the roots begin to develop. I then put the cutting in the center of the mix, take a bendable straw and insert in into the cup at the edge. This will hold up the plastic bag that will be placed down over the cutting, straw, label and cup and fastened on with a rubber band. The plastic bag needs to have a small hole put through both sides at the top so that excess heat can escape if necessary and provides for a bit of circulation. A knife point or icepick will do nicely for making the hole in the bag. I usually use sandwich bags, the foldable kind, not zip. The cuttings are then placed in a bright place, but not in direct sun and if put together properly need not be disturbed for at least a month. Many things this time of year will be rooted in a month, but I suggest checking for roots and perhaps giving them a drink at this time. If not rooted, they will then be alright for a couple more weeks or better, until they do root. There are very few things that you can expect 100% success with, but there are some. I've never lost a forsythia, miniature rose, african violet, spirea, and many houseplant varieties, but most things you will lose some. The most dangerous time for doing cutting is when they are amply rooted and you attempt to uncover them. Take your time doing this. Take the rubber band off and loosen the bag for a day or two, then pull the bag up a bit to expose one side to the air for a day or two. If that all goes well, then take the bag off, but at no time during the procedure allow the potting mix to dry out. Patience is all important in doing cuttings. Once you've been successful,you will be amazed at how much you will learn.