Yes, any one can grow figs in ground in a zone 5, in the north. We have been able to grow them. We have been growing and testing for figs that can be grown in our zone 5b/6a location, for around ten years. We have in test plots or pots around 26 different figs, that are suppose to be cold hardy and or rare. After ten years of testing we found 3 figs that do very well in our zone 5b/6a Connecticut location, grown outside, in ground. In order to grow figs in a cold climate, you need more then just a fig that is cold hardy. You also need a fig that is rain resistant, when the fig is ripening. If not you will end up with all the ripening fruit exploding, just before they are ready to be picked A fig that is late winter/early spring, sun resistant. Your cold hardy fig might make it through the winter, only to be killed by late winter sun. A fig that will ripen early enough to beat your first frost. If it does not, you will end up with a lot of green figs, that never ripen. A fig that produces more then just a hand full of figs. That is if you want enough figs for fresh eating, fig wine, preserves, and so many you can share with your friends. A fig that is FMV resistant. Or at least a fig that can over come the disease if and when it is infected. If not the fig will never be cold hardy. A fig that can produce sweet figs even in cold northern soils. I can send to any one who request it, a list of northern climate, cold hardy figs we are testing, and the results of our testing. Along with the names of the only three figs that we recommend for main crop figs, for northern gardeners. We are still working on the best breba crop figs for the north. We have several that are showing a lot of promise. These three main crop figs, make growing figs in ground easy, and enjoyable in cold climates. We feel these three figs are more cold hardy then Hardy Chicago. If interested, send request for list to robertcharper@gmail.com Bob Harper zone 5b/6a - Conneticut

Our ficus tree thrived in a high rise with lots of light. but has subsisted for the last 9 years in our southern exposure but shaded dining room window, supplemented by two ugly torchieres. We're about to rewire and I'd like to add attractive and effective permanent fixtures. How many watts do we need? The proprietor of our local plant store said he'd read that plants need at leas 250-300 watts of incandescent-equivalent light, and he was under the impression that three 100-watt bulbs would not be equal to one 300-watt, though I forget why. Is that correct? My current idea to to use 2 of these (http://www.amazon.com/Full-Spectrum-Light-Bulb-daylight/dp/B0019HZQPM/ref=pd_sim_hi_6z) enormous 65-watt CFL's in flush mount fixtures (ceiling is 10 feet and plant is 8 feet at window and about 5 feet on the other side) made from these 14" glass shades (http://www.mylampparts.com/Products/amber-glass-shade---MADE-IN-FRANCE__SL75101.aspx). The tree is at least 7' across. So, 300 incandescent-equivalent watts x 2 one to three feet above the 7' diameter plant. Does this sound like it will work? Thanks for the advice!

www.LedBuilder.org has links to some of the high quality and affordable LED grow light companies where you can find afforable pre-built LED grow lights that work really well. DIY kits and information to complete build your own from your own parts are also listed on that website. Some of the best complete LED grow lights are as follows. Put your lemon tree under these and they will produce lemons in the winter. Tasty LED Grow Lights, Johnson Grow Lights, Northern Grow Lights. Chilled Chilled Grow Lights If you want to build your own there are links to lots of resources, and some half-way DIY options you can purchase pre-selected kits of parts like: Growmau5 Grow Kits from Cutter Electronics Timber LED Grow Light Kits If you want to build your own from scratch, you have lots of options on what LEDs and power supplies to buy, you can grow watermelons in your living room if you wanted to. Some of the best parts around are Quantum Boards from Northern Grow Lights. Cree, Vero and Citizen COB LEDS from COBkits Chilled Grow Lights DIY kits These are all high quality options made with mostly the same high-end components that are better than regular shelf-bought grow lights. All this info is available on www.ledbuilder.org

I agree with Josh - providing a period of cold, a 'chill' factor that encourages a proper dormant cycle outdoors or in any unheated structure - is not exactly "growing the trees indoors". You are just holding them inside for a period of time. Plants which are hardy to temperate climates do not make satisfactory long-term 'houseplants' for simply that reason. If you cannot provide a consistent, sufficiently long chill period to stimulate a proper dormancy or quiescence, the plant will not survive for very long......a few growing seasons at best before it starts to decline. And FYI, any term which is used as slang to refer to someone of another racial or cultural background is considered pejorative or an ethnic slur. If you were Japanese, perhaps you might see the offense in such terminology. It is not considered acceptable usage in educated, polite company. If you need the abbreviate the term, just use the initial "J" followed by maple.