Yes, any one can grow figs in ground in a zone 5, in the north. We have been able to grow them. We have been growing and testing for figs that can be grown in our zone 5b/6a location, for around ten years. We have in test plots or pots around 26 different figs, that are suppose to be cold hardy and or rare. After ten years of testing we found 3 figs that do very well in our zone 5b/6a Connecticut location, grown outside, in ground. In order to grow figs in a cold climate, you need more then just a fig that is cold hardy. You also need a fig that is rain resistant, when the fig is ripening. If not you will end up with all the ripening fruit exploding, just before they are ready to be picked A fig that is late winter/early spring, sun resistant. Your cold hardy fig might make it through the winter, only to be killed by late winter sun. A fig that will ripen early enough to beat your first frost. If it does not, you will end up with a lot of green figs, that never ripen. A fig that produces more then just a hand full of figs. That is if you want enough figs for fresh eating, fig wine, preserves, and so many you can share with your friends. A fig that is FMV resistant. Or at least a fig that can over come the disease if and when it is infected. If not the fig will never be cold hardy. A fig that can produce sweet figs even in cold northern soils. I can send to any one who request it, a list of northern climate, cold hardy figs we are testing, and the results of our testing. Along with the names of the only three figs that we recommend for main crop figs, for northern gardeners. We are still working on the best breba crop figs for the north. We have several that are showing a lot of promise. These three main crop figs, make growing figs in ground easy, and enjoyable in cold climates. We feel these three figs are more cold hardy then Hardy Chicago. If interested, send request for list to robertcharper@gmail.com Bob Harper zone 5b/6a - Conneticut

Our ficus tree thrived in a high rise with lots of light. but has subsisted for the last 9 years in our southern exposure but shaded dining room window, supplemented by two ugly torchieres. We're about to rewire and I'd like to add attractive and effective permanent fixtures. How many watts do we need? The proprietor of our local plant store said he'd read that plants need at leas 250-300 watts of incandescent-equivalent light, and he was under the impression that three 100-watt bulbs would not be equal to one 300-watt, though I forget why. Is that correct? My current idea to to use 2 of these (http://www.amazon.com/Full-Spectrum-Light-Bulb-daylight/dp/B0019HZQPM/ref=pd_sim_hi_6z) enormous 65-watt CFL's in flush mount fixtures (ceiling is 10 feet and plant is 8 feet at window and about 5 feet on the other side) made from these 14" glass shades (http://www.mylampparts.com/Products/amber-glass-shade---MADE-IN-FRANCE__SL75101.aspx). The tree is at least 7' across. So, 300 incandescent-equivalent watts x 2 one to three feet above the 7' diameter plant. Does this sound like it will work? Thanks for the advice!

Yea, I tried to grow my first fig inside. I did it for the first couple years of its existence and every winter it would loose its leaves and then start to put on vegetative growth immediately. The thing is that there isn't enough sunlight to do it any good during the winter months in the upper midwest. It would get real spindly because it was reaching for the light. The tree is now almost 11 years old and goes fully dormant through the winter months. Thats because I keep it below 45*F in my greenhouse over the winter. Your fig would be better off in an attached garage or basement. I've never heard of Dakota as a variety of fig, did you get it at a nursery? Curious, Little John

Come Tuesday, it will be three weeks since it was transplanted into the DWC and put under the LED. Since then, it has added two full leaves and another one is starting to unwrap today. I've never tried a Dwarf Cavendish before but this plant could have 40 leaves and not be over 4' tall - there is practically no space between the nodes. That is probably due to a combo of the LED and using flowering/fruiting nuits rather than one meant to aid vegetative growth (not as much nitrogen). Mike