lets link your two posts together.. see link ... i am enjoying your thirst for knowledge ... that is why most of us are here in GW ... to share such you said: Like: Don't the vast majority of trees have but one stem? yes... it might be part of the definition of such ... stepping way back ... your are confusing trees with shrubs.. that is one reason there are two different forums.. because the words mean different things ... it only took me about 20 years to understand such ... that trees and shrubs are different.. not that words mean things... lol .. BTW.. you can do a lot better than wikipedia as a link ... its a good place to start to find new terms to search out and learn ... so just some thoughts to lead you on your quest for knowledge: not all WOODY plants are trees ... [there are even woody perennials] ... i like to put FLOWERING in front of the word shrub .... because in my mind ... for what that is worth.. most of the shrubs we notice, flower or berry [which requires a flower to make such] ... so when i think of shrubs i think of the common lilac ... forsythia .. olive... current .. etc ... they are grow in the same form ... and almost all sucker... to me ... its part of the definition of such ... and all will EVENTUALLY .. develop canes or trunks big enough for your project ... though it might take 5 to 10 years for such.. partly because they are wasting a lot of time and energy.. suckering their brains out .... soooo.. if you reduce suckering.. [good luck with that ... lol] ... the energy they produce can be forced into growing the product you wish ... hence all the suggestions about such ... now.. trees on the other hand.. do not sucker.. or multiply from their roots [leaving aside a discussion on some weed trees that might do such] ... you can repeatedly mow down a small tree... and make it LOOK like a shrub .... but it is budding above ground .. so it is not technically suckering ... again.. PROBABLY part of the definition of a tree... rather than a shrub ... and then.. on top of it all... conifers are trees... but not all trees are conifers .... which is then complicated by people calling such or both.. evergreen ... again we are back to common usage of non-technical words .... there are evergreen trees... evergreen shrubs.. evergreen perennials .. etc ... so when you call something an evergreen.... you cant get very far with a discussion ... see.. when it all boils down.. its all wrapped up in the words used ... COMMON descriptions... rather than technical or scientific ..... so when you really want to learn.. in depth.. you have to start.. by finding precise definitions .. in this case botany ... rather than wiki ... it is not uncommon for botanists to roll thru and start arguing about my way of trying to teach a newb ... so be it ... it helps us all learn ... but there comes some limit to how much botany.. my brain can hold... lol ... good luck with your cane project ... ken ps: when planting time comes.. ask for help first ... not after you plant it ... its pretty simple ... and dont waste money on soil amendments or fertilizers .... Here is a link that might be useful: link

calliope, I have a dozen dwarf mugo pines, and use this on the pine sawfly larvae: a 50-50 mix of isopropyl alcohol and water, with a bit of dishwashing detergent as a wetting agent. It kills them immediately. Maybe you'd find it less objectionable than the chemicals you're using. Last year they managed to eat fully half the needles on the northernmost of my mugos (which is consistently the favorite target), and this was the first spring I saw a few branches whose new needles didn't grow in. [And a heart-felt Thank you! to whichever old GWebber posted that formula 8 or 10 years ago. The same formula seems to work on mealy bugs.]

I have just read your question and the responses. I have a few suggestions to help your camellias survive the winter. 1.jared_sc was partially correct about the soil mixture. Your mixture will retain far too much water - the Miracle Grow is bad enough without adding 50% peat moss. A proper camellia mixture retains some water but drains rapidly and does not become waterlogged. Yesterday I mixed up a big batch of soil to pot some of my camellias. I use approximately equal amounts of ground up pine lanscaping mix or ground pine bark; sand; top soil or compost (commercially bagged is ok); and milled peat moss. I mix in approximately 1/2 individual amount of perlite. Keep your mix bagged so that it does not dry out. 2. Your original plant was in a 3 gallon pot. The 4 plants should have been put in 1 gallon plants. Too much soil in too big a pot combined with a small plant with damaged roots = plant death. The soil will retain water too long and become waterlogged. This will cause the roots to rot. 3.You did not mention how tall the individual plants are, but in all probability their leaves are too much for the damaged roots. 1/3 to 1/2 of the branches and leaves should be cut off to balance the roots. The plants will establish much faster than they would now, if they live. If this seems too extreme, you can cut most of the leaves in 1/2 with scissors. You must limit the amount of moisture released by the leaves. The plants will produce new leaves next year and drop most of these. 4.Unfortunately non-droping green leaves on camellia plants in the winter is not an indication that they are doing well or even alive. Camellias go dormant in the winter. Even when they flower, they are still basically dormant. I have had plants that looked good all winter outside, start having their leaves dry up and fall as soon as spring arrives. Upon examination, I found that the majority of their roots had been eaten off by voles. 5. You are doing good protecting them from the drying wind. If the day is above freezing, I would mist the leaves. Don't worry about some ice forming on the leaves, it will not hurt them. Your biggest danger is allowing the plant to discharge more water through it's leaves than the roots can pick up. Sorry for the overly long response. Oh, by the way, you made a good choice with Pink Icicle. It is a great camellia for your climate and is very hardy - excellent flowers - form & color. Unfortunately the voles or mice got mine last winter.

True norfolk island pine have large spacing between branches and are symmetrical. Their needle like foliage on the branches are also long a narrow. Btw... you can buy them in stores during holidays. They are frequently mixed up but we do have one that is a true Norfork island pine bought at meijer. Another helpful tip is the branches along the main terminal come out growing upward and then may level out or droop. The cook's branches immediately grow outward or downward. N. Island pine are also known for the dark green foliage and less peeking bark as they are not actual pine trees but are tropical. First photo is of our norfolk. It is 4-5years. Sunburns easily in direct sun. Needs high humidity otherwise drooping like this occurs. It recently changed locations due to a move and is not happy. Second photo is foliage. The top foliage is a cook and the second foliage is a norfolk island. I hope this helps.