Hi Al,

I posted a similar question in a posted I started in Feb.

The best time to root prune is while the tree is dormant. As to when, I have been giving that some thought in the past few weeks. I *THINK* it might be different in the north vs in the south. It is a very popular notion that fall is the best time for planting. I am convinced (at least in the south) the same holds true for repotting. The wisdom suggests that during the winter months, the roots will (re)establish themselves so when spring comes around much of the effort goes to producing top growth. I would think the same would go for a containerized tree, although I am not sure how that would work with an over wintered tree in the colder climates. This idea is important to me, and am very open to opposing views, since I travel so much and the past few years, I've had timing issues which could be solved if I moved to fall transplant schedule.

This is the response I received from Al (Tapla):

...I think that you'll find little (except perhaps anecdotal) information to support root-pruning/repotting of deciduous trees in general and F. carica specifically in fall. Tree wounds from pruning and recovery in general occur fastest when the tree is making food, so it is usually best to undertake root work (and particularly extensive root work) during quiescence and very near the anticipated onset of growth (at or just before bud movement in spring).

~james

Here is a link that might be useful: Why Should You Root Prune?

I've potted up figs in one gal containers to 3 gal and finally to 5 gal containers all summer long (in fact some have gone from one to the last this summer).

I don't root-prune (at least not yet) and I disturb as few roots as possible (except pruning thin-black or rotting roots).

I have not given this treatment to a plant with roots circling the pot or to heavily root-bound plants. I have the smaller potted plants sitting in mulch up to their rims to insulate and conserve water. When I notice roots pushing out of the bottom I pot up. One new fig I bought this year (mail-order) had a large amount of roots and I did do a little slicing down the side of the ball and across the bottom (maybe 1/2 inch deep on all sides). The plant did lose a couple figs it had when it arrived, but it hasn't lost a leaf or another fig since the first couple days.

I will likely slip all my plants from their pots a bit in the spring to see if they are overly bound and may trim roots a little then on a couple to see if it makes a difference.

~Chills

Chills,

I bare-rooted a tree which I had potted up the year before. The growing mix which I had used fell away with a little effort. However, the "original" root ball had compressed and became hard. It was much more difficult to remove.

Over time, you run the risk of the roots and growing mix compressing to the point of choking moisture and nutrients from the top of the tree.

~james

I repotted a Brown Turkey cutting that I had in a one gal pot (rooted this spring). The roots had just started peeking through the drainage holes. The plant looked healthy (FMV infected, but mildly), but it hadn't grown much since its initial spring push.

I repotted the day after I posted previously about re-potting (Aug 12th) and since then it has grown over a foot of new growth. (and the newest leaves show no signs of FMV)

~Chills