I would think the best time would be after they fruited. At least that's when I repotted mine and pruned. Although, I've repotted(not pruned)in November once, because the soil that the plant came in was staying SO wet...I was afraid I would lose it to root rot. IF the mix its in now has a lot of peat...you might want to change the soil to something more porous. Are you letting your tree fruit this year...If you are letting it fruit, then the best time is after harvest. If not you might be able to do it now since you live in Miami and your winter is pretty mild...but if we have another winter like we had last year, you will have to bring it inside the house when the nights get below 32 degrees. But to be on the safe side and get the best results I would wait till the weather is consistently warm to do any drastic pruning...for you April might be the best time. Just my opinion.

From the Arizona Master Gardener's Manual, Pruning trees in general: (nothing specifically about mango) Reasons for pruning: - stimulates shoot growth by reducing the number of buds available for growth - it's a dwarfing process and can be used to control tree size - improves tree structure - thins the crop resulting in better fruit quality The best time to prune is during the dormant season. This is usually during the first several months of the year. The structure of the tree is readily identifiable and decisions are much easier. Fruit trees should be pruned annually starting at transplanting. There are three stages of pruning during the life of a fruit tree. 1) transplanting 2) training; and 3) mature. In order to correctly prune these trees in all stages there are certain factors and characteristics related to each kind of fruit - desired shape and fruiting habit. The shape preferred by a kind of fruit will fit into 2 basic categories: 1) central or modified leader or 2) open or vase shape. Basically all fruit trees can be trained to an open center with judicious prining. However, the normal growth habit of some kinds of fruit allow easier training to the central or modified leader system. Also a tree trained to a central leader will take less space. The training process starts immediately after planting. If the new tree is an unbranched whip, cut it back to 30 inches above the ground. This will remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the tree depending on size. If the tree has branches, select up to four that form wide angles (45° or larger) with the trunk. Space about 4 - 6 inches aprt on the trunk in a spiral arrangement. Prune these back to 1/4 of their length and prune the top to 12 inches above top branch for development into a cientral or modified leader. For an open center or vase shape, prune top off just above the top branch. Also Googled 'when to trim mango trees' and got this page of great info - see the link. HTH. Mary Here is a link that might be useful: Mango Trees

It certainly depends on the type of tree. And we have a lot of new rules about pruning, including when. When it comes to most deciduous trees, including fruit trees, pruning during the growing season (spring into summer) is the best way to shape and keep the trees in bounds and at the right size. For serious limb removal, we wait until they're dormant (winter). For evergreens, it's about the same -- during the growing season to shape, size and fix. The down time for evergreens varies so it's hard to generalize about when to do anything serious. Joe

Hello and welcome from a state close to me.. I would hold off on repotting until at least near Father's Day...This way you tree will be actively growing for a bit and much more able to handle the stress that comes with a full repot into a better mix, best if you rid the old soil using a Porous one that consists of mostly pine bark.... A soilless mix...Especially if you want to repot into a much bigger pot and have it last for a while. Remember how weak and tired our trees are after a period of long short days held captive indoors.. Any further stress would likely kill them. Upotting to a different size pot without root disturbance is an entirely different story. Those that grow plants under artificial light for hours to compensate for our lack of sunny long days can probably get away with repotting when they would like at any time of the year if their trees are kept very active all winter... Good luck and let us know if you need anymore help:-) Mike This post was edited by meyermike_1micha on Wed, Jan 15, 14 at 17:46