Planting Green Giant Thujas

9 years ago

My 14 Green Giant Thujas arrived from Botanyshop.com yesterday - they look really healthy - not sticks like trees I've received from other sources.

Their instructions say to use Round-Up to kill all grass in the area because it can kill the trees - I really don't want to use poison.

I can mix-up some vinegar, Epsom salt, & dish soap - which is supposed to kill grass as well.

Also, the soil in one location is packed clay, so I thought I'd dig a larger hole & add some topsoil & add some fish fertilizer to give the roots a better chance to thrive early-on then cover with the original soil & mulch.

What do y'all think of all of that, please?

BTW1: It was 85F here today but is supposed to cool-down a bit this week.

BTW2: I have recently done the same with 5 olive trees (doing well after 2 weeks), 2 hazelnut trees & 2 almond trees (a few days ago), & plan to do so with 10 burning bush hedges tomorrow - unless someone says it's a real bad idea.

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gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)

9 years ago

Proper planting methods have evolved over time and with increased knowledge. The link Ken referred to (but failed to link to -- see below) is one that supports current horticultural principles for giving and getting the best from your plants - follow it.

Not sure where the notion that grass would kill a tree comes from....simply not true. But it is always a good idea to clear the lawn from the area in which you tend to plant as turf grasses can compete for soil nutrients and water with young trees. And then there is always the risk of trimmer damage if lawns are allowed to grow directly upto the base. No need to use RoundUp or any other herbicide to this - simply dig out the turf by hand then prepare a suitably sized planting hole. Keep a free area of about a 3' diameter around the base of the tree and keep it mulched, avoiding piling the mulch directly against the trunk.

Planting in clay soils is never a deal breaker. If drainage is not optimum, prepare a generously wide but shallow planting hole with roughened - not smooth - sides and place the tree high - the top of the root ball can be several inches above grade. Mound the removed soil only - no amendments - upto the top of the root ball to create a small berm. This will allow for proper drainage. Use any desired amendments as topdressing or mulch.

Fall is an ideal time to plant in your area. Roots are very active at this time of year and will continue to elongate and grow until the soil cools substantially in winter. And rain fall is usually more plentiful, reducing the need for frequent irrigation.

FWIW, in 30 years in the landscaping industry, I have never used a starter or root fertilizer when planting. Typically new plants come adequately fertilized from the grower and often the application of additional ferts at planting just further stresses what is already a stressful situation for the plant. And since the roots are so active now, I think this is a step you can easily skip.

Here is a link that might be useful: planting guide

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Comments (6)

ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
9 years ago
see planting guide ... follow it in regard to amending [NOT] ... planting in clay.. etc ...

put the pots in full shade until weather/temps is more conducive ... just because you got your hands on them.. does not mean its a good time to plant ....

in the mean time.. dig out the grass ... for the planting holes ... we can remove grass in between plants later ....

ken
davidinga
Original Author
9 years ago
Thank you for your reply. Here's the problem with "see planting guide" ...

I've read several planting guides & they disagree with one-another.

One says amend, the other to not amend.

One says some root fertilizer is good in poor soil the other says don't.

One says kill all the grass, another doesn't mention it, you say deal with it later.

One says plant any time, you say certain times are better, but what are they?

It was 67F here 10AM this morning, now it's 71F - a big drop from 85F and should stay low and generally get lower over time - but then it is Fall.

I've read elsewhere that cooler weather encourages root vs above-ground growth, which is better for the long-term health of a tree, is that true of the Thuja's?

What's a Thuja-newbie to do?

Thanks!
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
9 years ago
God i hate when i forget the link ...

you asked my opinion ... i gave it ...

85 degrees is NEVER a good time to plant ...

holding them a week or two ... in shade... will probably mean... temps in the 70s ... and cooler at night ... just less transplant stress... and a little time to get over shipping stress ....

take a drive thru your greater area... how many of the HUGE trees do you see... that were NOT amended at planting ... and a vast majority of them probably self seeded [i am not talking suburbia here] ... in native soil ... there is nothing inherently wrong with clay ... the problem is... us.. transplanting improperly into clay.. and then killing them thru improper watering or amending.. or fert'g ... etc ... we add all the variables on transplant.. and then wonder why ma nature fails.. she doesnt.. we do ....

the idea that these are some kind of babies which requires coddling.. is nonsense ..

and its when we start coddling them ... that we add all kinds of variables.. that simply complicate the whole deal ...

if you amend a hole.. in bad clay.. ts possible ..... the tree.. will simply wind its root around.. and around.. and around.. in the amended soil ...

if you plant in native soil... they are forced to deal with it ... and with proper planting.. and watering.. they can deal with it ...

and not being babies.. they will most likely never need to be fed.. nor diapered.. nor educated ... etc ...

treat them like the trees they are .... plant them like trees plant themselves.. and you will be well on your way.. to growing a plant.. that can deal with your native conditions.... of which.. i am presuming GGs are ????

and... if they are within feet of a fertilized lawn .... soon enough.. will will have roots out there.. stealing anything they may need ...

just like painting.. prep is 95% of the job .... now that you have your plants.. you have the other 95% to do ...

remove 3 inches of sod ..... dig a hole... and plant tree according to the link above ... high in bad clay ... and water properly ..

BTW.. have you ever perked you soil???? ... perhaps your clay isnt as bad as you think... dig a hole .. fill it with water.. and find out.. how long it takes to drain .... then plant accordingly ...

we like this planting guide.. because it is written by one of our own .. though most peeps dont admit they know brandon.. lol .... and it encapsulates what we all believe... its not worth this very col typing.. to have an exoteric discussion on all the other website you have seen ...

this whole amendment thing.. started by nursery sales peeps.. wanting to increase their profit.. by selling you not only the tree... but all the high profit amendments.... its like the car dealer wanting to sell you undercoating.. warranties... etc ... why do we tell them no.. but cant help ourselves with our baby trees ...

dont complicate your life ...

ken
davidinga
Original Author
9 years ago
Thanks to you both for the clarifications!

I have printed, bookmarked, copy/pasted and saved those instructions for future reference.

Sure appreciate the efforts of everyone to share the wealth of knowledge.

David in GA
davidinga
Original Author
9 years ago
Sorry it took so long to post this ...

Got 'em planted as instructed and so far they all look good - even despite some inconsistent watering due to failures in used supply & soaker hose.

Will post pictures when there are signs of growth ...

Thanks again!

Planting Green Giant Thujas

gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)

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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

davidinga
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Planting Green Giant Thujas

gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)

Comments (6)

ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

davidingaOriginal Author

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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

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