I bought it as a tiny plant at the start of May, it's now the end of September, so that's around 150 days. If they will eventually ripen then that's great. I thought perhaps that's as far as they would get! I'm sure it's just not warm and sunny enough in this country to be ideal conditions.

In Montana, most of my tomatoes (started by me) become fully ripened in August. However, tomatoes I started this year on 3-25 (and transplanted to 1-gallon pots at some point) ripened in July (early July through the first 3/4 of the month). NOTE: Those started on 3-25 (and transplanted into 5-GALLON pots) ripened earlier--in late June. Transplanting for both sets was the first week of June. (BTW, I have never seen any stress caused by transplanting, no matter the size of my plant/pot. My tomato plants really take off after they go in the ground.) Those started later, on 4-10, have NOT RIPENED as of August 1. ALL of my tomato plants are loaded with tomatoes, ripe or not. This data doesn't give us the same info as comparing the planting of 6" plants vs. 12" ones would, but it shows that starting early CAN produce earlier tomatoes, especially, IMO, if bigger pots are used, as needed. I did, btw, plant some tomatoes in 4" pots (that were very tall and should have been transplanted into 1-gallon pots) at the same time that I planted the ones in 1-gallon pots in the ground. Those made a good effort in catching up, in size at least, but they were just flowering when others had lots of fruit on the vines. Were any of my plants root bound, particularly the ones in 4" pots? Not that I recall. In fact, I need to learn how to produce more root and less growing top because my tomatoes get too tall before transplanting outside (I have them on a southern-facing, plastic-covered back porch WITH a roof, so they don't get full sun, by any means, which is the main reason they get so tall). I like starting plants earlier than recommended, especially since I moved to this colder climate. I believe, if the roots are given plenty of room, this method can produce healthy plants that produce earlier, just like with flowers that you want to bloom earlier. But beware--it's a lot of work to bring all those plants in big pots inside every time the temp looks like it's going to dip below 45 degrees F at night!

Not enough information in your first post to tell. Two days from what condition? Full-sized but all green? It would not be over-ripe if you let it go another entire week, then you can experiment by eating one to see the interior. Odor can be another indicator of strawberry ripeness.

From the rose hybridizers association, I'd gleaned it required roughly 110 days from pollination. Temperature may play a part. Why shouldn't it? Temperature helps regulate how quickly the plant breaks into new growth; how quickly it breaks into bud and how quickly those buds open, blow and fall, so why not ripening? I'm not aware of any studies done on that, but heat also regulates how quickly the plums and peaches in your back yard ripen, get over ripe and rot, so I guess it could. How MUCH it influences it and if it reduces that approximate 110 day time, I don't know. I date the tags I mark my crosses with so I know how many days it's been, because you can't tell from looking at them if they are ripe. You could gently bend their stems to see if they easily break off or fall off and hope that indicates they're ready.