Dear Lucy: Can't tell you how much I appreciate your interest with these questions. Yes, prune in late fall/early winter. In NYC that can be difficult to determine, because temp's. can be very warmish until the beginning of January, and then they can suddenly take a nose dive until March. Your instructions imply that pruning is OK after trees go into dormancy, .... correct? Size of tree will roughly be, give or take a few inches, almost the same size as the basic framework of the tree after the initial trunk-chop, and bending up one of the side branches to form a new, narrower "trunk" section, and some new "branches" to fill out the basic design. This will be trained in the "BUNJIN/LITERATI" style, so, the basic framework will be very stark, and will only consist of the main trunk: 28" high, then, one of the existing major side branches will be trained to form a continuation of the trunkline, and then, a new apex and some side branches. I plan on planting this tree into a large tub, or a training bed so that the tree could recover from the major surgery/wiring quickly, and to ultimately put out some new branch growth to fill out the existing branches. I don't want, or need, branches to sprout out from, or along the tall, branchless, trunk bottom. This section of the tree will remain branchless for this design, however, I do want to encourage new growth on the already existing branches, and needle bundles. The only major pruning this tree will get, is really, the trunk-chop. The rest of the "tree" is basically there, ... it just has to be wired, bent, and trained into the "Bunjin" style. The main reason I picked out this tree, is that, most of what I will be training has already grown. I'll have a tall, tapering trunk, secondary trunk, and, major branches, to complete the basic design of the final tree. Sort of an "instant" bonsai. I'm 58 years old, so, I need most things to be "instant"!!! The mechanics of how to form this tree were not my problem, but WHEN to do the major work was not clear to me. Wish I could show you some photos, and/or sketches of this tree, and the design that I had in mind, but, sorry to admit, I'm not at all, computer "savy". Perhaps, if, and when, I work on this tree, I might be able to post some before and after pictures ... with the help of my friends. Thanks again for all your interest, and for your helpful suggestions. Cordially yours, Frank DV

The pond one is unique and just getting started to be very desirable as it grows. There is plenty of room to let it free range. If you want to keep those two long branches they will have to be supported as long as you have the Atlas. Front yard specimen...really is out of its element to grow and become a nice presentation plant. There is no room for this to happen. If you don't have an area to relocate then you will have to selectively prune it to keep it in in confines. As it was not trained for much upward growth it has become a ground creeper and that area for expansion is limited. Anything that is staked for height get rid of. These are secondary branches that will not support themselves in free air for many years especially those driveway bound. The photos of this cultivat are not easy to decipher in regard to pruning for the most desirable look. Go for the obvious cuts first. That in turn should should help you decide on where to go next. Another thought I am getting is you don't think the branches should lay on the ground. Nothing wrong with this. and quite normal. The one growing over the rock is quite attractive and with this cultivar the only look that is possible because its growing habit has already been decided. Dave

Canyon- Thanks for the input. What you don't see is a small tree that's probably 40 feet straight ahead of that window. Not sure what it is, it has purple leaves in the summer and right now has beautiful pink flowers. Unfortunately, they only last about a week each spring! In the summer, you can only see that bay window from one direction. My thought process was to have this weep out and over the bed and a part of the lawn area. Walking up my path to the front steps, this will be on full display behind the crimson queen maple on the corner that turns a fantastic bright red in season. I thought the contrast of that with the golden mops and WBAC and Colorado Blue Spruce on the end would make a nice array of color contrast. That bay window is a solid 8 or 9 feet from the ground at the midpoint. It's about 2.5 feet out from the bay window also (And 4 feet from the foundation.) Unless I'm totally missing something (which very well could be the case!) I don't think it will ever block much, if any sunlight or the view, unless I just let it grow straight up without training it outward. Again, trying to learn as I go here. I actually did the entire other side of my house about 4 years ago and that's really starting to fill in nicely. I'm not one to just plant something and walk away. I carefully prune everything (including a cool topiary on the far left that you can just make out in the first photo) at least 3 times a year. That one keeps my on my toes as the Pom's can get out of control pretty quickly during growth periods. Sara - Wow! I saw your 2 WBAC's in the archway in background of that one photo.. absolutely stunning! And Thank you for the tips on pruning, I will absolutely look further into them, much appreciated! I really truly do appreciate all the insights from everyone.. thanks again! Keep em' coming!!!

I have grown Geranium lancastriense AKA Striatum or Prostratum a couple of times and found it to be compact, low-growing, and while it has most of its bloom in late spring, it continues to throw some flowers all summer here. It is a nice pale pink with darker streaks. It isn't happy in shade, however, which is how I lost the first two, when other plants over shadowed it, so it needs to be at the edge of the garden in a space of its own. I have planted two Orkney Cherries, and as linlily said, it blooms all season, stays low and compact, and has nice bronzy foliage. One of mine died the first winter, but I am fairly sure it was eaten by voles. The second one is in its second season and planted in a vole-proof basket. It had no issues the first winter, so I have high hopes for it. It is available from Lazy S's Farm Nursery, along with a delectable selection of other hardy Geraniums. I can see several I would like to try . . . Has anyone any experience with Nimbus, Salome, or Sweet Heidi?