Double Delight - you will love it. The only negative is that it gets double centers if you overfertilize. Good repeat, about 4 feet here. Mine is an older plant, when younger, it was taller Just Joey - I love it but it is not reliably hardy here. I plant it again and again hoping to find the right sheltered spot! Love it but can't seem to keep it going. Fussy! Never grown one over 8 inches tall. Peace - a classic, good rose for me. About four feet for me. Repeat is ok, not as much as others in my garden. Medallion - I like it and it has been a good rose for me in my garden. Not my fave, though. 4 feet and a somewhat stingy bloomer here. Europeana - a nice rose, lots of bloom throughout the season. A shorter, low growing rose. Always in bloom. I haven't grown Pascali. Just not a big fan of white roses. I've bought the package roses at Menard's for years. To give them a good start, soak them for at least 24 hours. They will do better if you put them in pots to start, then transfer them to the garden when they have shown some good growth.

Karen and tdogdad thanks for the info. I do not like to assume when expert information is a few key stroke away. I bought these out of Houston right up the road about 200 miles. They were shipped yesterday and arrived today. We had a different UPS guy and he did not put it into the round wire cage for packages. I guess I did the right thing the chewed up one got treated like a new cutting and the others were set about 3-4 inches from top of soil line to bottom of plant. They are in the plant area for newcomers partial shade. I wanted some semi adapted plants that could over winter outside. So I bought some nearby and hope to do well with them. They came from 5 gallon pots and I stuck them into 1 gallon. I seem to have a problem if I go too big with the pot before I have a plant that can use it. Moist bottom and dry top= fungus we do have tons of Humidity. Now that lamb is getting big. I had another set of twins and they were very healthy. So the flock is growing and I am running sprinkler lines and about to plant some more grass or a crop of millet. I swiped a 1/4+ acre from them for plants. 90% of the Brugs are in the ground. Now gophers hit them. I am hoping it set their heads spinning with nightmares. Maybe even killed them. Lots of open land that is not irrigated so when they are thirsty the come to my house. I believe it worked because their activity went way down. I will shoot a pic of all three. The twins are real cute. With so many plants I was having a problem guaging water amounts due to some being hit with irrigation. So I found a Moisture meter at Lowes for 4.99. I am getting used to the plants and their varying requirements. Have not killed any yet but have done some plant 911 more than I wanted to. There is a balance in the somewhere that I have not found yet. Fast draining sand vs potted plants vs vegtables vs grass. Maybe a moisture meter will allow some insight into the bottom of those big 15 gallon containers. Thanks for all the info Karen and tdogdad. I love the pics. It is true a picture is worth a thousand words. I may need to train the plumeria. This is what I bought Plumeria Peggy Higdon ROOTED 24" 3 tips, Plumeria Daisy Wilcox ROOTED 16" 3 tips, Plumeria Puu Kahea ROOTED 16" 2 tips, Plumeria Slaughter Pink ROOTED 12" 3 tips a a link if you want it http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZfmonkey13QQhtZ-1 She has a lot of Plumeria adapted for my area. Thanks again, Jim

cashew, lantana roots quite easily from cuttings. The best scenario would be to take several tip cuttings (6 to 8 inches in length) in the morning, after a good rainfall. That will help get the cuttings off to a good start. Keep the cool and moist until you are ready to get to work. Your propagation medium should be a COARSE, fast draining substance of some kind. I've used 100% perlite as well as a good potting mix combined with lots of perlite. Other people have success with other types of materials...just don't use your outdoor garden soil or a potting mix that is mucky and fine textured. Plastic cell pack inserts and trays are perfect for the job of holding new cuttings. You might have some of them laying around. If you want to reuse them, just wash them carefully and dip them in a 10% bleach solution...allow to dry off in the sunlight. Fill the cells with your propagation medium, water it very well...then get ready to prepare the cuttings. Remove ALL flowers and flower buds. Cut each stem to around 6 inches or so...making the cut just under a node. Remove all but the top two or three leaves from the cuttings. At this point you might want to take your new cuttings and wash them carefully but thoroughly in some cool running water. Lantana can be a magnet for spider mites and a few other pests. Using a sharpened tool (I use a pencil or Phillips screw driver) pre-drill a hole in each cell unit...insert the cuttings. When all of the cells are filled, water again (gently) in order to make the medium fill the hole around the cuttings. Do NOT use your fingers to tamp the soil...ever. That act compacts the medium and destroys the large pore spaces filled with essential air. Place the tray in a warm location, where the cuttings can obtain good light but no direct sun or wind. Many people cover their cuttings with plastic in order to keep the environment humid, but I don't. I've taught others to put some pencils or bamboo skewers, etc. along all four edges of the flat so that you can float some clear plastic wrap on top to create sort of a mini-greenhouse. It needs to be tall enough that it doesn't come into contact with the leaves, though. The medium should be kept moist but never soggy. You will need to be very careful when watering so that you don't dislodge the cuttings and break off any newly formed root hairs. It you use straight perlite, you'll need to water fairly often....less so with other materials. No peeking, either. Lantana cuttings usually are usually well rooted in somewhere around 6 weeks or less. Be sure to remove the plastic, if you used it. Begin watering your new plants as they require it and start on a diluted soluble fertilizer routine. Introduce the plants slowly to the outside environment, so in a couple of weeks they can sit in the full sun and wind all day. Allow them to remain in the cell packs until the roots have filled it nicely, then repot into...

Kim - Not a problem at all. I think you should just go for whatever looks interesting. If you're worried, just don't order anything terribly expensive. Haworthia aren't that difficult to grow. Some grow slower and are more difficult than others, but that's just like any succulent. I just get them anyway! For a while, many succulent species were intimidating and I thought I would never grow them. But when I finally got them, I realized they really weren't so bad. =) Sinha - My mix is made of white granite grit (grower size), Turface, and fir bark (blended reptibark). The five photos above show its size and composition. I do customize the ratios of the mix for each plant species. Most important is the mix to be well aerated and not hold too much water. I am fertilizing my succulents and am using liquid Miracle Gro 12-4-8. It's not very fancy, but is easy to get locally and is affordable.