I think you are expecting too much from your plant. First, you do not want to be taking out new growth until probably the next year (or at least wait until fall if it's shooting in the spring). Second, when you do make a division, you want to be able to take a decent size rootball; depending on the species this could be any size from large grapefruit, to basketball, to even larger for bigger bamboo). It's hard to tell about amount of root growth without probing the ground or digging. Usually it's not a problem for me since I only take out something that's obviously well-established and well leafed-out. Lastly, you don't want to be taking divisions when a plant is shooting or about to shoot.

Depending on what you are using to kill the grass it could be a long time. The information on the package should tell you everything you need to know about wait times and how it affects other plant material. A couple years ago I had a very weedy area and hired a guy to clean it out for me so I could plant bluegrass there. He killed everything with Roundup and said I only had to wait two weeks. So I waited three weeks, planted the grass and it did fine. He said that the roundup breaks down in the soil in about 14 days. Having said that, I'm sure there are alot of people who would disagree and say that it can last much longer. I've also had some experiences with weed and grass killers that seem to last for about a year or two. So you need to be very cautious with poisons. Corn gluten meal is an organic pre-emergent that will prevent weed seeds from germinating in the soil for about a year. It won't prevent the grasses that spread by rhyzomes though so you would want to just use it to prevent weeds popping up from seeds that are spread by birds or the wind. Corn gluten is available at feed stores and at some garden stores. One thing about your heavy clay, it is normally very high in nutirents and although it's hard to garden in, it is good for the plants. Besides adding the compost, try also adding zeolite. It's a natural, organic material that will enrich the soils and make it less hospitable to weeds. Weeds seem to prefer to grow in areas where nothing else can. They prefer poor soil. So by enriching your beds weeds are less likely to take hold. When you do get some nice new things planted be sure to mulch well. This will deter weeds, but it also makes any weeds that do manage to pop up much easier to pull. Compost loosens the soil, mulch helps keep it moist. One other thing I would suggest is to introduce earthworms into that bed. Earthworms have their own kind of magic they do on your soil, by tilling it with their burrows and fertilizing with their castings. They will also eat dead plant material and dry leaves that fall into the bed. Composted cow manure is a good amendment to add when you have earthworms too. Cow is good because the rumination process kills most weed seeds. Domesticated rabbit manure is good because they only eat processed rabbit feed and it has no seeds. I use a 4" cedar mulch in my rose garden and the weeds and grass actually grow between the soil and the mulch layer. Their roots are in the mulch so when I pull them out they come right up. I can shake off the mulch and toss the weed. I know you're frustrated with your azalea bed, but you have such an opportunity right in front of your nose. You don't have to throw out those azaleas you know. If you pot them up, soak them for a few days in water with fish emulsion and hang onto them until you are ready to replant you could certainly put them back into the amended bed where I'm sure they would flourish. Keep in mind that most the other things you're talking about putting in there won't look like much in the winter. The good thing about the azaleas is that they fill out and stay green year round. Cheryl

An O2 sensor heater circuit fault can trigger a MIL in a single trip. Unlike other systems such as the evaporative emissions, or catalyst which require two fail trips to light the MIL. So it's likely that you did repair the vehicle. Next time when faced with an O2 heater. Test for power to the sensor heater circuit, key on, engine off, and then test for power to it key on, engine running. Different manufacturers use varying strategies, so you have to test both ways. Once power to it is confirmed, then test for power coming back out of the sensor. First you will only see p[ower coming back out of the heater circuit "IF" the hbeater is good, and the computer is not grounding it at the time you are testing. To find out if the computer is attempting to control the heater circuit, unplug the sesnor, and connect a testlight from the power connection of the vehicle harness to the ground connection for the heater. You will get one of the following. No light, which could be the computer is not turning the sensor heater on, or cannot turn the heater on because of a computer or wiring fault. You could have a steady or a blinking lamp indicating the computer is turning the heater on successfully. This is a quick overview. Proper understanding of the circuit, and it's operation combined with proper testing take all of the guess work out of fixing cars. One test I left out is actually measuring the heater circuit current draw, and commanding the computer to turn the heater on to allow that to happen with a scan tool.

Best to wait many may hours before plugging in fridge and freezer, to let coolant refrigerant settle down after being shaken in transport. Otherwise they won't work. AFAIK. Later, you can slide them gently across a level floor without uch risk. AFAIK. -david