Edible ground level plants are always a lot of work. Plants that puts a lot of energy into creating things we can eat are at a bit of a competitive disadvantage as compared to small plants that put that energy into fast growth (aka "weeds"). And ground-level edible plants are easily overshadowed.

Growing edible ground level plants without resorting to monoculture, machinery and pesticides is a lot of work in most climates...it's why farming is a full-time job and most farms are monoculture.

Dandelions are edible...you could let them take over and declare victory? JK

You could scale back the edible ground level plants into a small patch, and focus on the trees and bushes that produce fruit.

most weeds are and medicinal, if you start a foodforest there is not way around it - you will get dandelions and other weeds. the only way around is is heavy mulching with mulch made from bark ( large particles ) like pine bark mulch. OR you can plant groundcovers that supresses weed..MOST groundcovers are invasive.

when you choose a groundcover choose one that is really good looking and reliable, do not get groundcovers that become very high or bushy. Alot of groundcovers have medicinal properties and alot of them are edible.

pachysandra terminalis looks natural and is easy to pull
Ajuga reptans
lysimachia nummelaria ''aurea'' ( less invasive cultivar )
some bergenia cordifolia cultivars do not get too large and are evergreen, will grow in any type of condition.

Fragaria 'Lipstick' for example is edible one ( doesn't taste like normal strawberry tho). you also have creeping chamomille which has edible foliage ( for herbal tea), Creeping thyme, Creeping prostrate rosemary ( just layer all branches, rinse and repeat ). if your zone isn't too cold you may consider growing gotu kola.

Cornus canadensisis a edible creeping groundcover, there are 2 cultivars that stay smaller than one foot.

you also have small shrubs like Gaultheria procumbens, certain edible dwarf mahonia species, Certain grass species like acorus gramineus '' licorice'' has sweet tasting foliage that is edible , its low creeping evergreen species that can be easily propagated.

2 links :

http://www.pfaf.org/user/cmspage.aspx?pageid=81
http://www.pfaf.org/user/DatabaseSearhResult.aspx

just check the edible rating and medicinal rating and what parts are edible from each plant. Just make sure that you get the right plant for proper locations, in edible / foodforest gardens it's often shade tolerant species.

This post was edited by Lodewijkp on Mon, Aug 25, 14 at 16:13

there is a new kind of micro-clover bred esp. for low-maintenance lawns. Look at the lawns on YouTube. I want it. I have something like it a co-worker gave me the seed of. It is super low. There are varying reports about its ability to withstand a lot of walking on, though. Guess it needs a lot of sun, though. Ajuga and creeping jenny and vinca minor are super low and take shade and creep/spread fairly well.

Strawberries have spread to make an amazing ground over for me. Hardly any weeds grow between them, and I get pounds of fresh strawberries each spring.

If the mulch was 4 inches deep 2 years ago, you need more...its dried up and gone mostly... thats why "weeds" as you call them are taking over.

you may need to lime the soil, or even fertilize (just once) to get the nutrients into the soil.

after its done once, it should stay in the system if you chop+drop plants.

(if you dont, you need to)

comfrey, lovage, nettle mexican sunflower.... other fast growing leafy plants, so you can use them for mulch every few weeks - chop+drop. coffee grounds help immensely as well... worms love them, and worms break up hard soils, create pathways for roots, and fertilize for you, working all day without pay. i get 50 to 80lb of grounds a week from 2 starbucks.

You need to figure out why dandelion, and not another species. If one species is dominating, there is a reason.

indicator plants...

http://homestead.org/DianaBarker/LooktotheWeed/SoilIndicators.htm

http://www.waldeneffect.org/blog/Spring_indicator_plants/

If you let the dandelion go for 1 or 2 years (max) it should help put the nutes back into the soil, and the dandelions should disappear.

use a pair of shears to cut plants you dont want. if you pull the roots, it disturbs the soil and fungal hyphe, and have made the problem worse. - If you have to pull the roots, then plant another plant in its place... an herb, a flower to attract insects, a nitrogen fixer... diversity is key for what you are trying to do.

different plants have different root systems, some deep, some shallow that hold the soil in place. you want all of them, and you want them to eventually die, to put nutrients back into the soil, and to create pathways for water, air, roots, worms etc...

i have over 200 species on my 65x110 lot, so if a dandelion does take hold, it doesnt look out of place.