Light, fertilizer and water, Air temperatures in the uupper 60's or 70's and soil heat at 64F or above - Millet

They have that.

Some branches on the Trovita are bare to the tip!! Should I leave the bare ones or clip them down to green leafy growth? The bare twigs are still green and pliable. It still has a decent leaf canopy but many bare spots and a LOT of leaves have fallen.

Light is OK now
Soil temp about 74 day 68 night
Soil moisture same as always

Leave the tree alone. The still green and pliable twigs are alive, just without leaves at the present time. If you leave them alone new leves will emerge in a month or two. The root system below the soil, and the tree above the soil comprise a unit. The tree as a unit maintains a balance. If you cut live parts off the top at this time you will cause more problems. - Millet

THe reason I asked is because some previously bare twigs did end up turning brown and drying out-those I did cut off.

Should I give them a shot of fertilizer to try and give them a boost?

I agree w/Millet. As long as the stems are green, they're alive..Time and patience is the key. Millet said they might leaf again in 2 months, but it may take longer depending on light. So, even if you don't see growth by January, leave the tree be. By spring you'll see new leaves. Toni

They've got pretty good lighting right now since my halide is fixed.

You could try bending the branches. I tried this on a tree after LOTS of leaf loss. it is still busting out in new growth and flowers. read my thread about George and an experiment of mine. it's just an idea. if you try it please share your findings?
Good luck..
Gina *BabyBlue*

Well my Oro is OK, hasn't lost a leaf in a while. However, my Trovita is losing leaves like it's a Silver Maple in fall. More twigs are bare than ever before, and they appear to be drying out (the twigs). I fear the plant is in a decline and will eventually die. I don't know what to do! Every time I brush against the tree a few leaves fall off. The Oro doesn't do this and is in fact doing quite well in comparison. When the plants first came in the opposite problem occurred, but once the Oro STOPPED losing leaves the Trovita started...and has yet to stop!

Hairmetal, been reading your posts about your fruit & leaf drop & feel bad for you. I know what it's like -- last spring after I brought my plants out, they almost ALL lost leaves & I cut back the dead branches & waited. I sprayed w/ neem & seemed to get worse. I cut my meyer lemon down (eventually) to 7 " above graft. Just a stub! I didn't have the scale symptoms you have --still don't know what it was but now they all have leaves & new branches. Meyer has blossoms! All I can say is the gooey stuff isn't normal. Is it just on the bad branch or all? How do you treat for scale BTW? I hope someone like Malcolm Manners, or Mr. Texas or Millet have an answer for you SOON. Good luck
Patty

Bryan, at this time of year as the trees are brought inside it is important to avoid extremely rapid changes in light exposure to prevent leaf drop. It is always best to aclimate plants by reducing light by partial shading 2 weeks or more before move indoors. I see in a thread above that the Halide light you were going to use was not working. At first both of your trees were losing leaves when you first moved them inside. Reading in between the lines, I take it after you fixed the halide light and started to illuminate your trees the Oro adjusted and stopped droping leaves. My guess is that the Trovita, will continue to drop leaves, even the vast majority of leaves, but not 100 percent. The tree will retain some leaves. If it was my tree I would reduce the fertilization to a minimum (not stop) lightly every 3rd watering or so. Does the growing medium still retain rapid drainage when you water, or has the medium compacted? The roots will need good aeriation during this period of time. You might get some die back on the smaller twigs. Citrus are very resilient. Citrus trees are able to withstand a lot of stress. It would be nice to hear how the tree is doing ever week or so. I hope for a good outcome for the tree. - MIllet

I answered some questions on the other thread.

The tree is in CHC/peat and it's not compacted. As I mentioned previously, two scaffolds have lost a lot of leaves and the other two have lost some, but still have nice looking leaves on them.

Oddly, the leaves are detatching right at the stem, not leaving the "stub" as they often do when they defoliate from stress.

Hey Hairmetal- hows your humidity? (say that 5 times fast!) I brought my citrus in pretty early just so they didnt defoliate, and I try to mist them 1-2 times per day. The room is probably the most humid because of the misting and I have a pan of water out. Just hoping to think of something more to help!

Well humidity is OK, dewpoints about 44 degrees right now.

Can you send me couple pics via email? I can post it on here so maybe someone can SEE what's wrong.

Ldyaqua1@yahoo.com

I've tried taking pics but I guess my digital camera sucks, because you can't see what I'm talking about that clearly in the pic. I'll keep trying.