Sariethecanary, A couple of things stick out in your post. The first one is the relatively large size of the trees. Maybe an instant height was more important than height in say five years, but I just want to point out that your trees will probably take much longer to get established than smaller trees. Also, planting them is going to be a lot more work. You'll especially need to be careful to address any potbound (future girding) roots. Smaller trees would have likely outgrown these larger trees within just a few years. I would never advise starting with trees that large for Green Giants unless instant size was the primary concern. The second red flag is your idea of amending the soil. This has been shown to be of no benefit, and often counterproductive, in almost all situations. Unless you can amend a very large area, you'd be better off not amending your soil. If you have the ability to amend a large area, it probably wouldn't be as potentially harmful, but still might serve no real benefit. If you do amend, amend lightly and over as large of an area as you possibly can. IMO, it would be best not to fertilize your trees when planting. Trees don't often need to be fertilized and improper fertilization can be problematic. As a general rule, I would only fertilize trees and shrubs when a soil test was completed and indicated the need for a certain fertilization program or, at least, when a need was indicated from observation. Your idea to use mulch is a great idea. A 3" layer of organic mulch can be highly beneficial for all kinds of reasons. Mulch can improve soil fertility and texture as it breaks down, prevent germination of many weed seeds, reduce competition for food and water from grass and weeds, prevent damage from mowers and trimmers, help to maintain soil moisture during dry periods, aid drainage by preventing surface crusting and sealing, keep roots cooler during hot summer weather, help to moderate soil temperature fluctuations, reduce frost-heaving, reduce certain soil-borne diseases by preventing soil and fungi from splashing onto foliage, and improve the look of the landscape. As for ensuring soil moisture, you should definitely verify soil moisture until your trees become somewhat established and before each watering (until you have a good feel for the situation without checking). Take a look at the document linked below. Be sure not to miss the information about watering in section 12. Here is a link that might be useful: Planting a Tree or Shrub

you don't know severe winter in zone 7 GA .... in the last two weeks up here in MI ... its been single digits with wind chills from -5 to -25 below ... now that is severe ... lol i was out yesterday and i saw no damage on any of the 50 or so GG's i have ... which leads me to believe that the severity of winter is not your problem ... soooo .. what to do ... i suggest nothing until they start to grow this spring ...GG's go through some color change.. and without pix its hard to tell if that is the issue or whether you have other problems .... so lets just be patient for a bit ... but lets be realistic... when you buy one or two plants.. you can take care of them.. and baby them... and get them going.. but when you are working on a scale of 26 plants .. in all reality you shouldn't expect a 100% success rate ... you may lose one or two ... and don't worry about that.. you can replace them .. but these are pretty aggressive plants.. and even if you have some die back .. they will rebound strongly once they get going .... this year.. you are responsible for all water.. they should be watered PROPERLY .... which means a good soaking.. and then let them dry out before watering again ... this involves your finger in the soil ... there is no way for me to tell you more than that ... in my pure sand.. i might water every other week or so ... once per week in the hottest part of summer ... you should also insure that all grass and weeds are removed in a 2 foot circle to reduce competition ... and a good layer of mulch should be put around each ... if watering is problematic... a little moat around each before you put down the mulch will allow you to put a few gallons of water there which will then soak in over time .... now.. if you have that famous GA clay .. i just don't know what that will do to my recommendations.. and hopefully someone with clay experience will correct me if any of the above needs adjusting .... often .. with potted stock ... you should see how the hired help whips these things around... grabbing the top of the tree and just whipping the pots around.. being evergreen .. the damage isn't seen for a year or two ... i wouldn't be surprised if someone grabbed yours and threw it to the next guy who them put it on a pallet.. etc.. you get the picture.. a little brown is not really a big deal in the 50 year life span of your babes.. so try to relax about it .. if it were all 26 plants.. then i would suspect you messed up somehow.. but if its one or two.. or a few plants ... blame some one else.. lol ... let us know what happens in April or may ... just take the hand pruners and snip out the brown once you are sure it will not green back up ... and the plants will be fine.. good luck ken

have any of you HARDENED them off to full sun application .... IF THEY CAME FROM A GREENHOUSE/shadehouse ... perhaps they are burning up.. because you blasted them out to full blistering sun???? when i order conifers.. i always try to remember to ask upon order.. or call them back when i get them.. to ask if they came from a greenhouse ... the next question would be how your zone compare between yours and where they are shipped from ... if they are growing lushly in z8 .. and you plant them asap in z4 in very early spring ... again.. there might be hardening off issues .... but to temps this time .... just speculating ... the grafters in WA and OR... tend to leave them outdoors the second winter.. or what they call winter.. lol ... but GG's are a rooted plant ... and it wouldnt surprise me if they are in green or shade houses .... ken

Well Ken, I got'em posted, lol; I 1st started out w/ 18" trees on the fenceline, 2-3yrs ago but they all died too much water cause the soil is to soggy after rain & snow storms. Had the trench but in 4"drainpipe w/peagravel and had the same landscaper dig & put in the trees after the drench was done, made a Big deal! The small ones bent over ARE A FEW YRS OLD dont have support may need a stick but will they live with brown tips? No, on the lawn spraying svc, wouldnt even use fertilizer til I can get these trees going. Botany shop is where I purchased all of them (1st the little ones; they failed then plan B larger one w/ the trench) last yr online, sent botany shop pics also warranty is 1yr so Im looking to get the brown ones replaced, the yellow tipped one is I dont know on. I'll have to cut back some grass from the trunk. Thanks whole bunch for your help Ken