I have an unknown southern highbush that blooms very early and frost usually wipes it out. Despite our cold winter it had a nice weather window as it was blooming. Several weeks later my Brightwell was caught in 30 a degree night when the flowers were still in tight cluster stage. My later rabbiteyes all had swollen buds but not quite opening up yet. My southern highbush with small blueberries were fine as were my later rabbiteyes, but my Brightwell crop was 80 percent lost. There are a lot of variables with critical low temp. Most say 28 degrees but if you read closely that is for 30 minutes exposure time, wind and clouds also come into effect. 2 hours at 28 degrees with light winds and clouds may be better than 2 hours at 31+ with no wind and no clouds. Also are you planted on a slope to let the cold air drain off? I don't think there is a magic number for temp that you can go by but for me this year tight cluster was the most sensitive stage so you may be ok.... or you may not be. Hope that helped.

Thanks Albert for the link...I keep the lights on for 12+ hours and for the watering...they actually hardly dry out (no heat/no wind) but my potting mix has excellent drainage...i keep it moist but not waterlogged... Hey morz...the temp ranges from 48F to 63F...do you think they can handle maybe moving the pots outside in natural sunlight? and i can move them back at night... p.s.: one of hyacinth bulbs is blooming outside right now :) My sister brought me these seeds too...but from spain :)...i hope they will toughen up by spring like yours Thank you, Heba

Zinnias, like most annuals, need to complete their life cycle in a single season so they need to develop roots, grow fast, produce foliage and colorful blooms fairly quickly so as to attract pollinators, then produce seeds with the goal of continuing their species. Lupines & other perennials germinate and develop seed leaves followed by their first "true" leaves that resemble the mature plant's leaves. But they can take the time to develop healthy root systems because they're not up against the calendar like annuals. Many perennials will not bloom the first season when grown from seed because they're putting all their energy into developing strong root systems and plant structure to support their subsequent growth years. Perennial flower production can wait until the plant is mature, strong & healthy. My seed-grown lupines didn't bloom until their second year but the show was well worth the wait. Another tip about lupines: they do best in lousy soil. The plants in the photos are growing in my neighbor's south foundation bed where I planted them because the soil is nothing more than sand and rocks. The ones I planted in my healthy, sandy garden loam that's rich with worm p**p didn't do anywhere near as well.

I understood her to ask if it could be a known variety that has that characteristic to help you troubleshoot. Based on the info provided try increasing the watering by 1 extra time each week to see if that makes a difference. Also the brown margins on the petals could be related to insect damage. Possibly mites or thrip. I would spray with Neem oil. Remember if its full hot sun the oil can burn leaves if done before the heat of the day. Some other helpful info would be the kind of fertilizer and if its in a container.