Do you root prune, keep potting up, or do nothing?
meyermike_1micha
10 years ago
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johnmerr
10 years agoponcirusguy6b452xx
10 years agoRelated Discussions
Root pruning - try to keep the larger roots
Comments (3)No, not correct. On an established plant, the big roots serve mainly for stability and as connection points for the smaller, hairlike and near microscopic roots that do all the heavy lifting for the plant in terms of nutrient/gas/liquid absorption. That said, you may still want some thicker ones for pure stability in the pot for windy days if outside. If in doubt, just cut off the bottom 1/3, trim the sides in so they're well away from the inner pot wall, fan the remaining roots out radially like spokes on a wheel if staring straight down at the plant, then set it on top of the "volcano" mound of new Gritty in the pot. Add the remaining gritty methodically so you fill in as many gaps or potential gaps as possible. Use a wood BBQ skewer or plastic fork to gently poke mix into and among the fanned out roots. If you see a few large, old gnarled roots, it is actually a healthy practice to cut those out as long as removing those won't make your plant topple....See MoreDo you prune phal roots to fit a smaller pot?
Comments (15)Well, this was a good discussion and covered a lot of good points. Thanks, everyone for the replies. You've given me a lot to think about. And thanks, Jane and others, for urging a little prudence. I do go overboard from time to time. I think my original post was misleading, as I didn't mean removing roots to fit them into a tiny pot. Gordon recommends pruning so they are shorter and will fit into an azalea pot, 5" deep. Turkeytaker, I wouldn't have called myself an overwatering "fiend" exactly, but I do err in that direction. :) Whitecat, your comments about the bonsai reference affecting your attitude toward this were very interesting. Also about the huger pots. The frame of reference is: the volume of medium is too much in a bigger pot, the inside of the medium stays too wet, and the roots will rot. A smaller, shallower pot is the answer to preventing rot. An azalea pot is 5" deep, so to fit them into an azalea pot, he prunes them to 5" when potting. Jerry, haven't seen you here for a couple of years. Glad to hear your additional comments on this. Your explanation of long roots cracking and being less useful makes perfect sense-- I've seen an occasional long healthy root, but yes, most of them are damaged or rotten in various ways. Your point about losing a precious plant was taken to heart. Howard, as it happens, I found I don't like using peanuts. I've used them a few times, but I don't like seeing them thru the sides of a clear pot. They're just ugly to me. They also make the pot lighter, and that interferes with me knowing when to water. I put a 2-3" net pot in middle of the pot instead. Richard, Brooke and Clara, your experience is always helpful. Well, the experiment was already launched. I'm marking the plants I handled that way, so I'll know what happened within a few months. I don't think I'll lose any, because I think I was reasonably prudent about it. But some 6" got repotted down to 5". And truthfully, conditions are much less than ideal, of course. I call my light room "phal heaven", but that's compared to what the catts thought about it. They complained non-stop. And the blooming ones get less heaven than that, especially as the winter actually comes on. Thanks again for the replies....See MoreDo you keep a gardening journal? and if so how do you keep it?
Comments (15)A nice "take with you to the garden" journal consists of using a recipe box (I prefer the 5"x8" size) and use two types of dividers (Alphabetical A-Z and Monthly Jan-Dec). I then file a card for each plant/tree/shrub by name of plant and also include plant detail/care/other information, where/when/price purchased, and where planted in the alabetical section. I also can place a photo protected by clear tape on the back of the card. In the monthly section, I file general cards noting "TO DO'S" that I would like to accomplish that month so I don't forget seasonal needs (fertilize, prune, etc). One could also add additional sets of alphabetal A-Z dividers in possibly different colors to use to further divide different groups (annuals, perennials, trees/shrubs, etc). You can also use the monthly section for other monthly reminders you may want to remember (birthdays, anniversaries, or special "to do" reminders). Hope this is helpful - Works for me!...See MoreDo not prune that crown when root pruning!!!
Comments (9)And follow the standard rules. if your plant is in a medium that is different from what it's to going into remove it all and only use the stuff in the new pot, or ground. No matter how much better the soil on the roots is the tree would rather have the crappy soil so all of the roots are in the same stuff. Google bath tub effect for more information. You can use the soil that was in the roots to top dress. Do not amend the dug up soil. Unless your willing to dig very deep and amend every single inch of soil that the tree will eventually use. All the way to the max drip line. Even then you will have to be aware of the rain and watering so you don't get the bath tub effect. Well worth it if you live where it's dry and have poor quality soil. If your interested in this please post a new thread here for advice first so we can help you not make mistakes. I really want to help people do this as I'm confident if done right will be a significant boost to the tree. More than any fertilizer or watering program. Much more. It's an extreme amount of work you want to get right the first time. Leave the soil as is no matter how crappy if you don't want to amend it ALL as deep and wide as your plant wants and top dress once it's planted. Much easier and the worms will eventually mix it for you. Always have the roots point out into the new soil. Cut off all circling roots. Water well when establishing but don't go crazy. Create a ring around the tree made of dirt to make sure the water goes down and not out those first few weeks. The ring will disappear on its own. If it's hot and sunny, shade the tree until it's established. Try not to leave fruit on it while transplanting. It's just not worth stressing the tree while it established itself in its new home if it's going into the ground. If it's potted the tree will not be as stressed and can support fruit if big enough. if I think of anything else I'll add it to the list....See Morerhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
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