Dig out as much of that Citrus spike as possible! Those are truly awful and, indeed, I have seen significant fertilizer burn when folks use them. So dig it out and flush that mix. Secondly, as Al said, find a good spot for the tree and don't move it around. Provide shade during the hottest part of the day - even just shading the container to keep the roots cooler will dramatically reduce wilting. Lastly, those dead spots on the leaves mean that there are dead root-tips....whether from too much fertilizer, too much water, too little water, or too high a temperature. Josh

Steve, Meader is not self-fertile; however, it is a member of the Early Golden/Garretson family, members of which have a genetic propensity for occasionally having a branch here and there that produces male flowers which can fertilize the female flowers on the rest of the tree - which will result in seeded fruits. Meader will often set seedless fruits in the PNW, but that's a climatic fluke - in the east, you'll either get overproduction of seeded fruit(translating into small fruit size) or no fruit production at all if there is no 90-chromosome persimmon pollen around to fertilize the female flowers on your tree. If there are no native 90-chromosome male persimmons in your area, I'd advise planting one - or even better yet, one of the polygamodioecious(bisexual male) selections, such as Szukis or Claypool F-100. Like gene, I also have some deep-woods persimmons on the farm here that are probably 60 ft tall - and 40+ ft to the first remaining branch; but open-grown persimmons are more likely to take on a spreading orchard-tree type of growth habit, not unlike a standard apple tree. I'm not tech-savvy enough to post photos here, but if you'll send me an email, I've got some photos of heavy-bearing open-grown persimmon trees, and some close-ups of the flowers that I can send as email attachments.

Mine survives typical winters in 8b - 9a. Keep it faily dry and provide good protection for the tip of the crown. Do not allow water into the crown during the winter. I slide a large cardboard bow over mine. Shovel it full of dry leaves, then cover the whole thing with a Big trashbag, but allow for some air circulation. I normally have to trim the fronds quite a bit. I start watering with high pottasium fertilizer in the fall, and cover it just before the first frost.

2006 Edition of Trees of Seattle says there was a 41 ft. Hiro-ha-katsura at the Arboretum at that time. Its accession number indicates it was acquired in 1946 (without delving further, into Arboretum records it could have been anything from a seed to a tree of some size then). The book also mentions a planting of 3 at 1123 16th Ave E, consisting of two on the street and one 25 ft. tall in the yard. With 2 regular Katsura sharing the planting strip with the 2 C. magnificum. You can find out where other trees you are interested in are located in the Arboretum by looking at their web site. Walking around collections like this, with extensive plantings of trees and shrubs - often with some time behind them - is a good way to get a feeling for the visual character of various kinds. And how much space they may come to occupy. Trees of Seattle - Second Edition http://www.arthurleej.com/tos2.html