Excellent thanks. I just went out now 11:30 PM and they were all huddled under a single leaf perfectly in line along the leaf's edge for the night. A little creepy. About twenty of them. Not anymore hah. Gave the tree a real nice strong blast with the hose. Dunno where they are now but will have another look tomorrow. My single orange dog is still there. I leave one or two but remove any eggs I find. I'll host a couple of them for the swallowtails but no more than that. Thanks all!

I have the same problem on a few, but not on all of my trees. They are indoors next to a window that gets bright sun. The one from Four Winds is dropping leaves and has thorns but still has blooms. The one from Stark Bros looks fine. They are indoors, and I have been watering regularly. I also have a little citrus group (orange, lime, lemon) from Gurneys. One has leaves, the others have spikes and no leaves. I was thinking of repotting bigger ones in a grainy mix (if I can figure out what that is) They are about two feet high. I'd post pix if I could figure out how. Help! I am in Yorktown VA

Parker T - > just FYI - in my particular yards, I had conflicting scenarios (after dips to 18-19F) but have a different preference. I've "soured" on any cultivar with 'quat in its name; they are not as cold hardy as I had hoped. In Napa, the Eustis Limequat (on Volk) was killed to just about the graft - regrew and is now 10 ft. tall - took over a year. The Bearss lime just lost its leaves and refoliated, produced a huge crop right away. In Danville, the Bearrs lime was completely destroyed, the Volk rootstock lived. While the Eustis in my neighbor's yard was defoliated and came back. From what I've seen since, the Eustis fruit gets destroyed quickly when the temps go below freezing. The Bearss lime fruit can and has survived to 29/30F. So my vote is for the Bearss or Persian lime -because I want fruit! - far better for my climate's fall/winter dips below freezing. - George

In sandy and calcareous soils, foliar applied fertilizers are 4 to 20 times more effective when compared with soil applied fertilizers. (Lingle & Holmberg, 1956.) https://citrusagents.ifas.ufl.edu/archived_presentations/fall_prg2010/Citrus%20Agents%20Web%20Site%20-%20Nutritional.pdf Citrus foliar fertilization has been an industry standard practice in citrus groves for over 50 years. https://crec.ifas.ufl.edu/extension/trade_journals/2014/2014_April_citriculture.pdf Where soil PH is too high or too low, resulting in 'lock up' of nutrients (frequently micronutrients) in the soil, foliar application of those nutrients will ensure rapid response in the trees and prevent growth from being restricted. Effect of irrigation water acidification and soil pH on citrus nutrient availability https://citrusresearch.ifas.ufl.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/7.-Morgan-Expo-2019.pdf Four winds growers sells over 50 varieties of citrus nationwide. Here is what they say about misting, "In winter months, heated rooms may need additional humidity. Placing the pot on pebbles in a saucer will elevate the tree above the drainage area, and improve airflow and humidity for citrus. Misting citrus foliage with a simple spray bottle is another way to help citrus cope with insufficient indoor humidity in winter." If you have new leaves and new shoots it is really beneficial to mist those. Because of the VPD they loose moisture much faster than mature leaves. Flowers are also very susceptible to losing moisture and misting can help them set fruit.