Well, without photos, it's hard to tell you what might exactly be going on. Are you fertilizing on a regular basis? How frequently and with what (NPK ratio and micronutrients)? Limes, like lemons, tend to flower off and on all year 'round. I wouldn't worry about the blooms, I have many citrus here that are also putting out some blooms right now, too. If you want to post up some photos, we can try to help you diagnose the yellowing leaves. It could just be a function of cooler temps, soil pH a little high, and thus the locking out of manganese and even iron, which can cause some winter chlorosis. Not uncommon in my neck of the woods (San Diego county, Calif.) And, lime trees are probably one of the most sensitive to cold temps (Persian is a bit less sensitive than the Key/Mexican Lime, though), so I'm guessing without photos to go by, that this might be your issue. Patty S.

Silica, I figured you would say the opposite or make my advice seem invaluable. Let the members see for for themselves..What a joke,........I hope this person chooses wisely since I have never had to spray anything on my foliage, ever, not since I discovered the right mixes and fertilizer after years of doing this previously before coming here. Listening to the advice of what you and other so called professionals say lead me to dead ends before spending years at the container forums with the right people. I have been growing problem free Citrus Trees for years, and have proved that here and yet I have yet to see yours over the years. You fought with me over bark saying that Coconut Chips was far better than bark and yet you stopped using them after you failed in them while encouraging others to grow in that instead of the 5.1.1 mix. You never like me for encouraging I tlothers to use it. You say you used the these mixes for years when you never did You never documented it or have proof you did.If you want people to run out and try this or that to correct issues when it can all be done with one good fertilizer, the right regimen and in the right mix,that's fine. I've tried to reach out to you and work with you and yet you still refuse. That's fine too You are probably getting a kick out of it since most new ones here have not got a clue that you have been doing this to me for years, staying in a different page than I here. I can promise you that I will not give up helping others while I presume that it would satisfy you if I did. . When was the last time you agreed with anything I had to say or complimented my years didicated or consistent efforts here? Your only purpose to me has been to quash my credibly here lately, and I'm not the only one who sees that now you move in and look like the good guy deliberatly being xtra nice to the ones that I've gotten to know or help to rally them on to your agenda? Please, let it be known, that I too can copy and paste many articles that you have been putting together here from Google and the tropical forums to pretend you know it all. At times word for word on what Millet says......I've known you for years and you have never had a fondness of me or my ability or desire to help others with the methods I've learned here for years. Thanks., L.N . Everything grows just right, perfectly well, as long as the roots are running correctly, their needs are met, and the nutrients are able to be utilized..I would rather help others address the root of their problems, than waste their time or money to bandaid them just to have them keep reoccurring. As the pot shows it is salt issues, and the soil of choice causes that if no proper flushing of them is done, and the clay pot if exposed to cold temps as John says are most likely the cause. But I assume most of the time your climate is warm which would not be an issue with clay. L.N If you would like to e-mail me, please do so. Since I have helped dozens of members here for years with success, I would be willing to help you. My e-mail is milerno_1@yahoo.com If you choose to do it Silica's way, you have that choice and I wish you all the luck)))) It was great to meet you.

Not a large transplant at all, for a Cedrus. I have been fortunate to have been the recipient of two enormous (one was about 7' x 12', the other about 10' x 6') Cedrus that were in inconvenient places and in each case I was offered the tree if I could come and get it. I took a couple of guys and a trailer and in each case we dug them out with a minimum of roots (one was planted on top of road base and the root ball was about 3" thick!), brought them back here, planted and staked them. Neither ever had a single problem. Cedrus take to transplantation about as easily as any hard wood I know. They are native to areas with low summer humidity though, and that doesn't describe Greenville! Check out Tom Cox and John Ruter's excellent book, 'Landscaping with Conifers and Ginkgo for the Southeast.' They discuss cedars in depth, suggesting that C. atlantica performs best in zones 6 and 7 and is not recommended south of 8a. In acid soil they benefit from a liberal application of lime at planting. It is apparently slower growing the South than the other Cedrus species. This is just to put your tree in context. You want to get as many of the cultural requirements as nearly right as possible.

Try growing Kaffir/Makrut lime... The ACP (HLB vector) hates the tree and will leave it alone. The other trees less desirable for the ACP are grapefruits and pomelos ; if you add an ISD (imidacloprid soil drench) 2-3 times per year, you should stand a pretty good chance of healthy trees . The trees they are most attracted to are lemons and mandarins. As for the neighbors, when the county ag folks come to your house, you could always mention the neighbors.