Weeping Blue Atlas - need help to diagnose and treat bark problems.
Michael Bolick
7 years ago
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Michael Bolick
7 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Trees in Containers III
Comments (236)Peach and apricot often bear heavily in alternate years. IOW - a heavy crop one year and a light crop the next. If you can detect and identify this habit in your trees, it would be best to root prune while dormant in the spring of the lighter years. That said, for the peach/apricot trees, root pruning shouldn't have much of an impact on yields or fruit size. In fact, root pruning of in-ground trees is making a comeback as a way to tame wild growth and increase yields in for many types of fruit. It is a fact that root pruning is an ESSENTIAL part of long term care of trees in containers, unless the tree's care giver is willing to tolerate the decline and loss of vitality that always accompanies root congestion. So, even if it did have an impact on yields, you'd still be pretty much obligated to do the root work. You probably have seen how growth can come to a virtual standstill due to root congestion. A famous tree biologist pioneer, Dr Alex Shigo, contends, "A tree that isn't growing is dying", and it's true. Trees grow when they create more food/energy (via photosynthesis) than they need to maintain respiring organs and keep their systems orderly, simply because they need a place to store the excess food. Trees stop growing when they make as much as or less food/energy as they use. No organism can sustain itself long term when it uses more energy than it can produce. So literally, as a containerized tree starts to slow down due to root congestion, it will eventually stop growing and start its terminal decline unless the grower intervenes on the tree's behalf. One might think that trees suffering from root congestion in containers regularly die from the fact they are using more energy than they are using, but that seldom occurs. Plants have a 'pecking order' determined by how strong different organs are in terms of their demand for energy. The stronger the energy sink, the more obligate the plant is to deliver energy to that part. Energy is first allocated to respiratory function, i.e. to maintenance of living tissues, then, to production of fine roots, followed by flower and seed/fruit production, then primary growth (extension of both roots and shoots), then secondary growth (thickening), and finally, the synthesis of defensive chemicals. Notice that defensive chemicals are at the end of the list. Most plants in steep decline, regardless of the reason, usually die from insect herbivory or disease pathogens due to the plant's inability to defend itself. You can also see by the pecking order (1 - living tissues, 2 - fine roots) that fine roots get the lion's share of energy outlay when the plant's chemical messengers signal an imbalance between top mass and root mass. So the first thing that will occur is, the plant will start regrowing the the roots you pruned off. That puts a temporary hold on top growth until roots catch up. For dormant tree which have been root-pruned, root pruning puts a temporary hold on bud activation until enough new roots have developed to support more top growth. Let's say you start 2 tree cuttings from the same genetic source in the same size pots. One gets potted up in the spring after you notice the root/soil mass can be lifted from the pot intact, while the other gets a full repot based on the same trigger (root/soil mass can be lifted from the pot intact). After 10 years and all other factors equal, the repotted tree will be many times larger that the tree potted up, it will have far greater vitality, will have produced much more fruit/ nuts/ seed/ ....., and will still be growing in a pot a fraction of the size of the tree that was potted up. Root pruning makes that much difference. Al...See More'How To Graft'
Comments (20)Not sure it anyone still looks back at this section of the forum, but I found it extremely interesting. The question I have is more of a top-down question. I currently grow blue spruce, in multiple numbers (hundreds/maybe a thousand potted up now, and maybe another thousand almost ready to pot ). Mine are 2-3 years old, so early stage. Grown from seed. Some from "majestica" blue spruce seed which seem to grow quite eratically to be honest. In any case, I read of blue spruce cultivars like Hoopsi, and Fat Albert. I believe they are grafted onto Norway Spruce understock. What I don't understand is how the colour (very vibrant blue) is common to all grafted stock. I assume that "they" (whoever "they" are) select specific/specimin adult trees and take scions exclusively from that tree? Who would maintain the Hoopsi "trademark" i.e. select consistent adult trees? I assume certain of the "progeny" may then be a source of scions, thus improving the variety? Also, I know I can buy grafted Hoopsi grafted stock (a year or two old) but if I wanted to graft my own Hoopsi, how would one proceed (and is this type of activity monitored? i.e. purchase a Hoopsi adult tree and presumably take my "scions" from that tree??) Alternatively, if one of my current trees grew with a vibrant blue colour (I seem to have a few out of a thousand) could I then use that tree for scions, a number of years from now? (provided I obtained or grew Norway Spruce or some other suitable understock). Sorry, you can tell I'm very new to this. But any information will be helpful....See MoreWhat is this variety of Weeping Alaskan Cedar Called
Comments (66)They are wrong as I have found most who comment on it. The tree in the picture and the many I finally have (after 4 years of searching) is called 'Select Weeping Nookta Cypress', aka Weeping Alaskan Cedar, botanical name Chamaecyparis (or Cupressaceae) Nootkatensis 'Select'. Langendoen Nursery Inc, (http://www.langendoennurseries.com/) 52 Carlton St, Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON L0S 1J0, Canada grows them and supplies them wholesale to garden centres but most are gone by mid-spring. I have had garden centres tell me that same as you have been told and then when I go see the tree or they send me a pic of their Pendula Dense Form or Pendula it is not the same. The tree is quite rare and few places offer it. That's why even garden centres and other nurseries get it wrong all the time and also why you rarely see it growing anywhere. I have seen fewer than 20 of them in all of the GTA. When I look at the tree is reminds me of a waterfall and part of the reason I find it so beautiful, not to mention I love having a tree that rare....See MoreWeeping Blue Atlas Cedar
Comments (2)Could also be winter kill, if you had a colder-than-usual winter last winter. Death of the bark due to severe cold can take a surprisingly long time to manifest itself in the foliage dying off. Atlas Cedar is not 100% hardy in zone 7. Resin...See MoreMichael Bolick
7 years agoMichael Bolick
7 years agoSara Malone (Zone 9b)
7 years agoEmbothrium
7 years agoSara Malone (Zone 9b)
7 years agosam_md
7 years agoSara Malone (Zone 9b)
7 years ago
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5