I would like to know what is your secret. Surely you are fertilizing it with the right fertilizer since wood chips and sand serve only as medium for the roots to cling to.
It makes my good friend Milllet who is an authority in citrus all his 'teachings' all thrown out of the window.
And you said "Since it was transplanted the tree has almost doubled in size and has a ton of new growth" just 3 months ago.
I am going to rethink my knowledge again.
I am going to try your method if you can tell me the fertilizer you use.

Can you post a picture please?

Meyer Lemon trees naturally send out very long individual branches from the base that curl back down on the ends when the fruit develops -like an umbrella. On the smaller trees, the heavy fruit will rest on the ground with no problems. Don't cut the branches off or trim them if you want lots of fruit.

Iryn..do you know if the Meyer's is grafted? The only thing I'd prune is anything growing below the graft line which is rootstock..rootstock grows quickly and you don't want that on your tree..Is it a standard tree or a bush? Toni

Ok, here are some pics of my little tree. Doesn't that pot seem HUGE to you? The dog for comparison is Dante my 100 lb German. I do not know if it is grafted or not. I spoke with her today and she said the soil she bought was in a purple and black package. This would elad me to believe it is Hyponex. She also told me she used a Miracle-Gro Fruit and Ctrus Tree fertilizer spike on the very edge of the pot on one side. Should I change anything about this situation? Repot? Change the soil? Anything? I am slready learning so much on this forum and want to start out as far ahead as I can. Thanks so much!

Here are the pics:
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Iryn, nice shephard..
Yes the pot does seem large..how tall is your tree? Sometimes it hard telling w/pics.
How big is the pot? To measure, w/tape measure, tape across that top, from one side to the other..this will give you the diameter of the pot or pot size. The problem w/that pot is the top is wider than the bottom; it's a rare type of pot.
To tell if it's grafted, look at the trunk..you'll see a line w/a bump. BTW, if it's grafted, the graft shouldn't be covered w/soil.
Perhaps you can remove the soil closest to the bottom of pot and check for this line/graft.

Did you repot or the store you bought it? I hope they used something so the soil is well-draining..Do you know? Hyponex is too heavy by itself. I sometimes use Hyponex but mix other mediums like sand, peat and Perlite. The sand and perlite help w/the drainage. It makes a lot of difference.
Also, those fertilizer stakes aren't worth the time or money. They basically fertilze in one area, and if she's got it sitting in the edge of the pot, a lot of good that's going to do..(S)
Remove the stake, and toss it..when you want to fertilize use a Citrus or Azalia fertilizer..altered w/Miracle GRo for acidic plants.
Do you know what size pot it was in before it was repotted? Check the diameter of this pot, too. Toni

The trunk of the tree is 7 inches, including branches it is about 17 inches from soil to the top of the leaves. I dug down a little bit and did not see a graft line. My friend said she got it from the William-Sonoma catalog. Spending $65.00 for a lemon tree is a little nutty to me :). She gave me the pot it originally came in and it is 6" across I think. The pot it is in now is 24" across at the top. I ma pretty sure the soil is mixed with sand and the bottom of the pot is all wood chips. This is what she told me at least. I will change the fertilizer I am using. But should I repot it?

I'm in no way an expert, but I got the citrus fever earlier this summer and now have 8 plants (3 meyer lemons, 2 key limes, moro blood, red navel, and ruby red). The first 4 were transplanted into pots that were too large (i.e. from a 6-8 inch pot to a 14 inch). Regulating the moisture has been a nightmare - they're always soggy, and I eventually dug the soil from the sides and replaced it with vermiculite mix. In retrospect I should have just repotted them... Anyway, I've since learned my lesson and only went from 6-8 to a 10 with the other plants and they're much easier to deal with.

Bottom line, I would repot your tree to avoid problems with moisture. If it came from a 6 inch pot, I would use a 10 inch. That's my two cents...

If I were you, that is if I were you, I'll just leave it alone.
What Jeff said is true but I can see that although the pot seems too large for the tree, the soil reaches only up to 3/4 full and the pot is tapered so the pot appears to be right to me.
And you said that the tree doubled in size in 3 months so you are doing something Right. If you made a mistake your plant will tell you by now by having yellow leaves or drooping leaves or what but to me your plant is looking so healthy so why tilt the cage when there is no problem.
Just because someone tells you otherwise it does not mean you are wrong.
The ultimate decision lies on you alone. Go for your gut feeling.
I many times went against the experts advice and I did very well because I thought what I did was right.
That's the pleasure of growing citrus. You are the captain of your ship.

I agree with bencelest. The tree is doing nicely, and so I would be tempted to leave it alone. Since it will likely have to move indoors in cold weather (I'm making assumptions given your location), leaving it for now also gives it an opportunity to grow and get stronger while it can be outdoors--repotting it now may cut into that substantially.

However, how well the soil drains will be a big factor in how large of a container you can use. You did say that the bottom of the pot is mostly wood chips--so the actual soil around the roots is bagged mix with added sand and no chips? I find that sand as an additive does not help much with aeration/drainage of container media in that the particle size is usually too small, and the chips in the bottom will not help with actual drainage. Something to keep an eye on is how much soil compaction and degradation you get over time--that would then put the tree at risk for waterlogged and subsequently rotted roots. See the link below--it's best summary I have seen to date, written by a very knowledgeable horticulturalist.

To comment on the pruning....I do prune my citrus when they need it for some shaping, but it tends to be minor for the most part. I find that Meyers tend to be quite aggressive about fruiting, and so you may not cut back that much on fruiting if you do choose to shape a bit. The natural habitus of citrus tends towards shrubby growth. If you're certain that it is not rootstock/sucker growth at the base, some leggy growth may be due to low light exposure--the pics seem to show that the tree doesn't get a lot of direct sun.

HTH.

Here is a link that might be useful: Useful information for container growers

Thanks rickjames. Also thanks for showinng us Mr. Taplas' elonquent explanation about citrus life cycle.
It makes a lot of sense and an eye opener. I learned a lot n those.