I plant them in full sun here, but I would imagine they would like a little relief from the early afternoon sun where you live. I will leave that part of it to people who live near you.
I would like to point out that they get larger than most people realize. I found out the hard way. Give yours enough room.
They like summer water with adequate drainage.
Here's a couple of mine about 30 years old and they're still growing. These face south with no shade. The Stewartia on the left has since been removed. Too big and messy for that spot.
Mike
{{gwi:613875}}

this is tricky ....

ignore the PNW ... lol ... they are magic ...

as much sun as you can give it ... for good yellow ...

BUT!!!! .. shade in the heat of the day ... and by shade.. that means indirect sun ... i am not talking dark cave ...

plants sweat ... aka transpire ... they give off water .... they do it most when its hottest.. so trying to avoid direct sun light during heat.. helps ... when a plants roots.. cant pump enough water.. to offset such.. the tissue is damaged .. and turns brown ...

as to its current status... we would need a pic ..

how that all works in your MD ... i am not sure ... might end up being.. most shade ... i am sure other east coasters will chime in ...

ken

So you think it can take full sun in winter? This year can be an anomaly due to the harsh winter and being new transplant. I'm sure it froze within a month after planting. I will get pictures today.

Here it is on the south side, crispy!

Mike if you are back to read this, you mentioned water bodies in relation to lawn design. Will you please help? I posted pictures on Landscape design forum, linked below.

Here is a link that might be useful: My question on lawn design

This post was edited by wannabeGardnr on Mon, Mar 24, 14 at 16:28

From the north side, still green. So much difference over winter.

This post was edited by wannabeGardnr on Mon, Mar 24, 14 at 16:29

Anyone from my region on the forum? Please chime in.

Since you planted it "in the late Fall", I would attribute that to transplant shock more than a sun issue. Mine only browned up when it was subjected to K9P.

tj

Doesn't look too promising but I would give it until June.

Since you say it was already burnt when you got it, it's impossible to know what happened back in the nursery to cause this damage. The best course of action might have been to return it right away. Of course, the foliage which was damaged has now turned brown and looks worse now, but the damage was already done before you got it. Looks like the one side will be okay, though the other is disfigured and may never grow out of it.

Yes, this plant does best with some afternoon shade during the hottest part of the day. Won't necessarily need shade in the winter, though it may like some protection from winter winds.

When you get this one sited right they look great. In southern Md. i never saw one that could handle full sun with-out burning. I find half day sun in the morning ( eastern exposure) and shade in the afternoon, will get it to color up and not burn. Sometimes when the burning is slight it will grow out of it when it gets better established.

Al

So, sounds like I need to find deciduous shade, so there is some afternoon shading, or against west wall for morning only sun. Thanks for chiming in you all.

Should I cut out the brown, or let it protect the inner foliage for now, and wait to see what happens in spring?

I am thinking that since I just planted in the Fall, don't move it yet, but plant some tall annuals or perennials around it for shade. Then find the permanent spot in the coming Fall.

It was sitting in full sun in the nursery, so I thought a little burn was normal. I don't have the exact date for this picture, I can get it when I get home, but I think early winter - December. The burn was not that bad then and it got worse over winter. It was very little when I got it. Roots were good.

I wouldnt cut anything out...it will dry up and crumble out on its own eventually.

Thanks Al.