The above is correct about the wetting agent and also that miracle gro MC has cococoir fiber and no other additive to help maintain better moisture. I think it is a little wet myself but I have many customers that buy it and won't buy the regular miracle gro after using it and several were using it for tomatoes. I can't say I personally have used it for tomato here in Texas but I can speak for several customers that were very happy with it for a mix that they didn't make themselves from scratch like many of us that are on this forum do. I do like and continue to experiment with cococoir and have to say that I like what I have seen after my first year of testing. I still want to follow-up with a few variations this year. The quality of cococoir is the issue I worry about the most about so far but have been happy with what I am getting from a Phillipine source. Just a few thoughts on the subject from personal and customers experiences over the last year. Happy Growing David

Definitely read Al's primer on container trees. Where exactly in Texas are you (I'm in Houston). What do you mean by "the roots are still turning up clay soil"? Do you have 2 feet X 3 feet of open ground space? If the trees are dead and these are just roots left behind, this would make a *perfect* space for a raised bed. Seriously, perfect. If you can afford large clay pots, you really should spring for them. The big black plastic pots absorb all the solar radiation and bake the roots in the south. If you can't do that, making plywood boxes to or even using some opaque cloth to shade the plastic from the sun would help a lot. A lot of the excessive moisture loss has nothing to do with the temperature of the air, but rather the temperature of the roots. Be more detailed about the yellowing leaves, because I couldn't get a good sense of what you mean. Pictures would be really helpful. The most common yellowing problems for citrus are due to secondary and micronutrient deficiencies (magnesium, iron, manganese, zinc are the most common). Is the yellowing in between the veins, with the veins remaining green. This is called interveinal chlorosis, or christmas tree chlorosis. Does it start on the oldest leaves and progress up the tree? This is usually magnesium deficiency. Is the yellowing on the newest growth, and interveinal? This is usually iron deficiency. The brown squiggly lines sounds like leafminers. Most experts agree that this is almost entirely an aesthetic problem on otherwise healthy trees - the leaves still work, they're just ugly. But on trees that are already highly stressed, this is a major problem. Ants do not prey on red spidermites (oh how I wish..). Heavy rain usually results in major spidermite mortality though, especially if all the leaves are exposed to it. If you have spidermites on any of your plants, you need to get rid of them.. they can't handle the stress on top of everything else. All you need to do is give your plants a serious bath, focusing on the underside of the leaves, as often as you can. A forceful stream of water is all that's need to kill or remove spidermites. Insecticidal soap or horticultural oils are very effective, but you have to apply them at night because citrus is very susceptible to phytotoxicity. I don't want to overwhelm you, but there's quite a bit you can learn about an ideal container soil. I've linked another of Al's (Tapla) epic posts that has transformed that way a lot of us container garden. If it's too much for you to absorb at once, just take away this - the 2" layer of pebbles and gravel does not improve drainage... it actually makes conditions worse for your plants.

Aha, finally a question I can answer! (I'm new here but I've read just about every post on potting mix I could find.) Head on over to the "Container" forum and read the series of posts about this very topic from a very knowledgeable poster named Al/Tapla and the many many many other people who have had success with his potting mixes. There are also other folks who use different mixes, but there's definitely concensus about the idea of creating a fast draining but well aerated mix for containers to grow successfully long term. The key thing I've learned about potted citrus is they don't like soggy roots. Basic potting mixes have too much organic material and that not only stays wet too long, but it breaks down and collapses quickly, accelerating root rot and the poor nutrient uptake. When I got here a couple weeks ago, the idea of "home brewing" my own potting mix sounded so revolutionary and a bit crazy, and now, I'm a convert. I do a slight variation of the mix Al recommends, because I want to grow using a bit more organic material than he uses. You might also want to read his fertilizer posts... all very helpful. Good luck with your citrus! Here is a link that might be useful: Al's Container Potting Mix Post

Hey John my plumeria are just waking up from winter. I aquired about 20 more varieties by cuttings this springs so ill be busy with those also. good to see you tolerate at least a couple other plants. LOL. How many trees are you up to now? I had about 2 dozen fruit set on my largest meyer and about a dozen on a smaller one. Best crop for me so far. Illi good looking tree. Where did you get it. Also I forgot to ask, what type of lime is it. The benefit of using a very well draining soil is that you can go with a bit bigger pot than what would otherwise be considered too big because of the perched water. If that was my tree I would go with at least something in between a 1 and 5 gallon pot. I use all nursery pots because they are cheap so my stock is 1 and 5 gallon pots. I have a few much bigger too. You could probably get by with a 5 gallon if you have a good draining soil and watch your watering. In july/august in oklahoma its very hard to overwater container plants even using straight miracle grow. Its this winter that you have to be careful. mike