My Citrus trees are quite happy in plastic pots, are yours?
meyermike_1micha
11 years ago
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denninmi
11 years agolast modified: 9 years agogreenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
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Growing citrus in plastic pot in patio on East side
Comments (7)Definitely read Al's primer on container trees. Where exactly in Texas are you (I'm in Houston). What do you mean by "the roots are still turning up clay soil"? Do you have 2 feet X 3 feet of open ground space? If the trees are dead and these are just roots left behind, this would make a *perfect* space for a raised bed. Seriously, perfect. If you can afford large clay pots, you really should spring for them. The big black plastic pots absorb all the solar radiation and bake the roots in the south. If you can't do that, making plywood boxes to or even using some opaque cloth to shade the plastic from the sun would help a lot. A lot of the excessive moisture loss has nothing to do with the temperature of the air, but rather the temperature of the roots. Be more detailed about the yellowing leaves, because I couldn't get a good sense of what you mean. Pictures would be really helpful. The most common yellowing problems for citrus are due to secondary and micronutrient deficiencies (magnesium, iron, manganese, zinc are the most common). Is the yellowing in between the veins, with the veins remaining green. This is called interveinal chlorosis, or christmas tree chlorosis. Does it start on the oldest leaves and progress up the tree? This is usually magnesium deficiency. Is the yellowing on the newest growth, and interveinal? This is usually iron deficiency. The brown squiggly lines sounds like leafminers. Most experts agree that this is almost entirely an aesthetic problem on otherwise healthy trees - the leaves still work, they're just ugly. But on trees that are already highly stressed, this is a major problem. Ants do not prey on red spidermites (oh how I wish..). Heavy rain usually results in major spidermite mortality though, especially if all the leaves are exposed to it. If you have spidermites on any of your plants, you need to get rid of them.. they can't handle the stress on top of everything else. All you need to do is give your plants a serious bath, focusing on the underside of the leaves, as often as you can. A forceful stream of water is all that's need to kill or remove spidermites. Insecticidal soap or horticultural oils are very effective, but you have to apply them at night because citrus is very susceptible to phytotoxicity. I don't want to overwhelm you, but there's quite a bit you can learn about an ideal container soil. I've linked another of Al's (Tapla) epic posts that has transformed that way a lot of us container garden. If it's too much for you to absorb at once, just take away this - the 2" layer of pebbles and gravel does not improve drainage... it actually makes conditions worse for your plants....See MoreWhy not grow citrus trees in ceramic pots?
Comments (9)Ashley, In addition to the reasons given by others, I would add that ceramic pots have a few other potential drawbacks. First, they are fragile in comparison to plastic pots--one sharp blow inflicted while moving a ceramic pot around on your patio will likely reduce it to shards. Second, they are more expensive. Third, their shapes can be ill-suited to transplanting needs (I've noticed that many ceramic planters intended for annuals have bellies that will never yield up a rootball).Fourth, writing as someone who has a degree and 30 credit hours of graduate coursework in ceramics, I'll add that many of the ceramic pots may be toxic in some small way over time either to the plants or the people who might consume their fruit. This is particularly true of those ceramic pots with colorful glazes, but if people wish to use glazed pottery for growing edible plants or fruit they should be aware that many of the cheaper ceramic pots on the market may well be suspect in this respect even if they have white interiors, as one of the cheapest ways to get a white glaze (if you are ignoring health concerns) is to use lead oxide. More about the kinds of metals used in glazes: high-fire stoneware glazes that produce blue glazes, for example, often contain cobalt, derived from cobalt oxide or cobalt carbonate. Many other high fire glazes make use of other metallic oxides and carbonates that may be fine for decorative purposes, but probably are not a good choice for growing fruit that may be eaten, or may simply be bad for the health of the plants inside them. Some of the metal oxides and carbonates used to produce glazes include various iron-oxides (generally safe), lithium carbonate (and many lithium-bearing minerals), various copper oxides and carbonates, manganese oxide, chrome oxide, nickel oxide, strontium carbonate, tin oxide, tintanium dioxide, and vanadium pentoxide. It gets worse: Colorful low-fire glazes, such as those found in majolica and earthenware (including much cheap pottery probably being currently produced in China, and elsewhere, in earlier times) are also frequently based on lead oxides. If used for decorative purposes, or for serving up a plate of whole fruit, such glazes are effectively harmless, but I would not recommend growing food crops in them. Lead is notorious for leaching out of glazes. Interestingly, when production potters manufacture pottery intended for food use, they either use approved formulations of glazes, or if they use custom glazes they should test their glazed ware to see if it leaches unacceptable levels of harmful substances. The test typically involves exposing pieces of the pottery--like bowls and plates--to an acid solution in an accredited laboratory, since acid accelerates the leaching out of the metals from the glaze. As citrus prefer acid soils, they would in theory be more at risk to this kind of leaching than plants that are grown in neutral or nearly neutral soils. In other words, growing a citrus tree in a glazed ceramic pot is potentially a bad idea....See MorePlease share recents pic of your potted citrus with us.
Comments (157)just a little update. brought mine out of the greenhouse and into some filtered shade. They overwintered pretty good. A little yellowing on a couple and just a touch of leaf drop. Not a big fruit set but thats ok because I plan to push these with more N this year to really get bigger. Fukushu, key and washington left to right meyer, bearrs lime, armstrong satsuma, seedling grapefruit and seedling lemon, left to right up close of fukushu kumquat, probably my favorite right now. Prolific bloomer, great fruit set, and always healthy. Its regulary flowers every other month or so. Steve these are for you the lemon seedling on the right is one of 2 of the very first citrus I grew. the other I gave to my mother. Both were germinated in the Fall of 2009 making them just over 6 years old. Ive neglected them a little and thats why they arent so big. One did flower last spring but just one or 2 flowers. Grapefruit is about 3 years old. and again neglected a little. mike...See MoreUneven moisture in my potted citrus trees.
Comments (3)Thanks. I am also watering in the house with a gallon jug. The pots are elevated with no saucers so when I do water I put the stand with pot into a big plastic tote bin and water with a gallon jug and let all the excess drip out. When the top inch is dry to the touch the mid section indicates moist and the bottom is wet. So I don't water based on those readings and I can tell the fine feeder roots at the top get dry. Should I use a spray bottle to moisten the top level? I like the idea of poking holes with a wooden dowel but how low do you poke?...See Moremeyermike_1micha
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