Sean, as long as your Vigoro has micronutrients, that's fine, but I would also hit it with a foliar application of Grow More Citrus Growers Blend. It is something you want in your "citrus arsenal" here in S. California. With all the heavy, cold rains we've experienced in the last 2 years, you're going to run into the same issue I have with citrus in the ground (my soil is mainly DG here in N. San Diego county near the coast): a leaching of micronutrients, especially magnesium. So, start with the Vigoro, but do make a foliar app with some micronutrients. You'll see the difference, promise :-) And Tim's right, no pruning for now. Wait until you obviously need to do some MINOR shaping. Remember, with citrus, pruning equals no fruit. Citrus produce fruit at the tips of their branches, so you're cutting off your next fruit crop when your prune! And Tim's advice about removing suckers is right on. Just break them off if they're soft. If they've hardened off, trim close to the rootstock. Our water isn't too alkaline here in San Diego county - about 7 to 7.6. Fine for citrus. But, for your little guy, acidifying the water with some vinegar and pouring it over the fertilizer may help prevent the micronutrients from getting locked out due to the alkalinity. You guy needs a bit of a rescue. Tim's advice is good. Once recovered, you probably won't need to acidify your water. You can also achieve this with your foliar application - acidifying the water you use to dissolve your Growers Blend in. When you pick up your moisture meter, pick up a decent pH meter (don't buy the cheapest one). It's worth having these in your gardening tools. I've had both my moisture meter and my pH meter for many years. Great tools to have! Patty S.

Yes, ncrixz, Isopropyl alcohol 70% is your plain old "rubbing alcohol" that you would use the cleanse the skin prior to an injection. You'll want to cut it in 1/2 with water: 1 part rubbing alcohol + 1 part water. Put into a large spray container and follow hoovb's instructions. First,though, what I would do is examine your tree more closely, to see why it has such a bad infestation. Mealy bugs, whiteflies and aphids will attack a tree that is stressed. The tree does not look to be in good shape. So, I would first, tackle the root problem. I would make sure the tree is pruned carefully to open up the canopy a little bit, to improve air flow inside the tree. Prune out any dead wood. Prune dead or crossing/congested branches down to the branch or trunk it emanates from, but don't cut into the branch collar (that's the little flare where the branch first emanates from the trunk). Remove any debris from under the tree. Prune out any branches that are touching the ground. Make sure your tree is being watered and fertilized regularly. Then, take a hose and spray it down with a strong stream of water, to knock off as many mealy bugs as possible. Then, treat the tree. If you decide to go with a 1:1 mixture of rubbing alcohol and water, or, with insecticidal soap spray, do it in the evening, when your air temps are lower, and the sun is not beating down on the tree. You can also consider treating the tree systemtically with Imidacloprid. That would be a soil application, watered in. The tree will absorb the insecticide which will then be transferred to the leaves, and thus kill the insects. You may only need one application of Imidacloprid, and then if you take very good care of the tree, and improve its status (not stressed), it may be able to stay bug-free in the future. Patty S.

i see movement .... but i cant focus on the bugs. the white stuff in the soil.. is just a fungus that is naturally breaking down your very fine soil ... ignore it ... its natural ... you ask if they are eating the roots.. i ask.. whats your concern.. look liked a healthy root mass to me ... you might want to try shaking some on a black sheet of paper .. and taking pix.. ken

Counselor, You have spider mites for the fungus use hydrogen peroxide (H2o2) 3% from the drugstore see link: http://www.kimisplumeria.com/Faqs-PDF/F-7-Hydrogen%20Peroxide.pdf Because this is the time of year many new growers and some that are not so new get introduced to the world of the spider mite. I thought it would be good to give a commercial Plumeria growers view of the issue. When one gets an infestation of spider mites immediate actions should be taken in order to prevent a out of control situation. First the grower needs to select an insecticide appropriate for this particular insect. Second it is VERY important to know the life cycle of the mite you are targeting. The next is to have the proper application (and protective wear equipment) and knowledge of how to spray for effective control of the insect. And remember for eradication more than one application of spray will be necessary. The following is a list of control agents: These will work to some degree; Malathion* ("Malathion is an insecticide of relatively low human toxicity"), Horticultural Oil*, Neem Oil, Broad spectrum systemic sprays (Orthine - Isotox), Insecticidal soaps. (Most agricultural colleges do not recommend any of the above see links at bottom of page.) *1.25-2.5 oz. for 1gal. Water for summer application, reduce for greenhouse conditions. To add Malathion use at recommended dose for both products. Do not use if temps will exceed 85 degrees the day of spray you will kill both the mites and your plants LOL. These will work better; Floramite, Avid, Akari, TetraSan 5 WDG, Forbid, Hexygon DF and the addition of Stirrup M (sex attractant pheromone). And lastly, hosing off plant with a fine but powerful water spray will work in certain environments. Before proceeding, use good judgment by wearing the appropriate protective gear, then choose the best sprayer for the particular task. Do not use a hose end sprayer for safety and the environments sake. Make sure to follow manufactures directions and precautions for the spray material. Read the entire label for the product. Spraying method should include spraying the entire plant: This means special attention to the undersides of the leaves, the tips of the apical and lateral stems**. Make sure you do appropriate follow-up applications. Follow the manufactures directions in all cases for repeat applications. Jack http:www.kimisplumeria.com **Plants have two different types of stems, the main stem, called the apical stem, and the side stems, called lateral stems. The apical stem extends all the way from the roots to the tip of the plant. The lateral stems branch off from the main stem in regular intervals. On a tree, the apical stem would be the trunk, while the lateral stems would be the branches. PS These are a few educational links for spider mites; http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7405.html http://www.fmcprosolutions.com/Portals/pest/Content/Docs/BMP/pest_bmp_t1spidermite.pdf http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2012.html http://www.ca.uky.edu/entomology/entfacts/ef438.asp