They will be fine in those temperatures, but they simply might not be taking up any elements from the roots until it gets warmer. I don't use lime in my mix for citrus; let us know how yours does over the summer.

I'll be watching the replies in this thread as my situation is almost exactly the same as justaguy2. I'm in Zone 6 and had about 20% leaf drop, but so far I'm chalking that up to the trees going from ideal greenhouse conditions at the grower (Four Winds in CA) to my deck in NJ.

I initially had some non-pest leaf curling on the Bearss Lime but after another second round of fertilizer it looks better.

I have no new growth on the lemon or the lime and like justaguy2 I was chalking that up mostly to the new soil mix and lower average temps. I hope the trees are focusing on new roots but I'm not exactly sure how to verify that without damaging any fine roots that may be growing.

Thanks for the replies.

Rhizo, it is good to see you again, I miss you on the container forum.

Jerobi, I can confirm that the roots are growing in my case (and probably yours) because I root pruned before potting and initially they needed staking for support, but now they do not so the roots must be growing.

Rhizo, if you aren't adding lime, are you adding gypsum? I have read conflicting information on citrus and being a newbie to citrus don't know what to think. Some info says they prefer acidic conditions, others say within +- 1 point of neutral is fine. What do you and other container citrus growers do for pH?

Should I be using an acidifying fert or is a complete fert in a 3-1-2 ratio with some N from ammoniacal and some from nitrate forms OK?

I never had luck w/bare root trees. Every last citrus that came from 4Winds died. It might have been my fault, then again, I've heard others complain their citrus from 4winds had problems or died.
One person I talk to has good luck w/their plants. He swears by them.

I agree citrus can be outside when temps drop in the 40's at night, but when it comes to bare-root or young citrus, IMO, it's best keeping them indoors until temps stay warm..50-55F at night.
After roots fill in, and new growth sprouts, AND temps remain a constant warm, would I set a young tree outdoors.

Citrus soil and fertilizer should be acidic. You'll find this info here on GW and nursery sites. Some ppl keep pH as low as 5.0.
Since your mixes are soil-less, regular feedings will be necessary. Make sure your fertilizer has nutrients. An extra application of iron helps, too. Toni

Citrus soil and fertilizer should be acidic

Not to be obnoxious, but why do you say that? I have found lots of sites that say the same thing, but also many that say this is wrong and that citrus do best with a pH from 5.5-7.5 depending what it is and what the root stock is.

BTW, thanks for your response, Toni. I hope you understand I am not trying to challenge what you said, just that I am getting conflicting info from sources that seem credible regarding the pH preference of citrus. I am trying to figure out, best I can, what the reality is.

Hi Justaguy..No offense taken. Every article I've read regarding citrus soil, be it internet sites, nurseries and Citrus books, state soil should be nearly acidic to acidic.
Packaged Citrus fertilizers and soils also state: for Citrus and/or other acid loving plants.
4winds growers, Harris and Briteleaf all recommend acidic soils and fertilizers. 4winds details which soil is best for container citrus.
People I talk to in Fl who grow citrus, complain about sandy soil, how they have to add other mediums to amend.
Where did you hear/read citrus soil needn't be acidic? Did it say Citrus do well with alkaline/neutral pH?

Earler tonight I was reading one way to tell if soil was acidic or alkaline. Acid is sour smelling, alkaline, sweet. The article was rather funny..the author said, if you can't detect either sweet or sour, then the soil is neutral or for the 'sniffer' to quit smoking..LOL..

Everything works together. Minerals, nutrients, and of course, sun and proper watering.
Since I measure pH, try keeping soil on the acidic side, follow article instructions, I haven't any proof one way or the other.
Who knows, perhaps a citrus would do great with a pH of 8.0, but I'm too chicken to try and losing a plant..LOL Toni

Howdy back to you, justa! ;-) Yes, I do use gypsum....but lime really shouldn't pose a problem. As you probably know, I've been using bark, Turface, perlite, and a pinch of peat for many years.

The pH in containers is not as critical as in the soil, Toni. I assume that you're using a soil-less mix, too, right? In ground plants depends upon the magic of chemistry to be able to obtain dissolved elements from the soil. WE are in charge of that for our container plants. The use of a good soluble fertilizer with micro-elements solves the problem entirely.

"My understanding is most are cold hardy to 15-32F, but don't really grow below 50F."

IMO They can take a good bit of cold, but I would never leave them outside when it gets anywhere close to 15F outside. Especially in a container. Personally, I would never leave them outside if it had any shot to get below freezing.

Where did you hear/read citrus soil needn't be acidic? Did it say Citrus do well with alkaline/neutral pH?

It isn't the growing mix I was concerned about, but the fertilizer. You said that the fertilizer should be an acidic one. By this I am thinking something like MG for Azaleas etc.

What I was wondering was whether it was necessary to use an acidifying fert or if a 'regular' one would also be OK. The fert I was planning on using gets 25% of it's nitrogen from ammoniacal sources and 75% from nitrates.

This is why I mentioned that the sources I have read have conflicting info on citrus. Some say that a pH around 5-6 is best, others have said 6-7.5 is best or at least not a problem. If 6-7.5 is fine then I would use a regular fert, but if it needs to be 5-6 then I would use a fert with all/most of it's N from ammoniacal sources.

IMO They can take a good bit of cold, but I would never leave them outside when it gets anywhere close to 15F outside. Especially in a container. Personally, I would never leave them outside if it had any shot to get below freezing.

Good advice, and I definitely won't. When nights are less than 40F with regularity they will be houseplants. No frost or freezes are in the cards for my container citrus.

My concern is that the three trees (orange, kumquat and lemon) all arrived with leaf yellowing which, to me, indicates a nutrient issue. The specific nutrient is not clear to me as some leaves on some plant parts say iron, but others are not so clear. I really don't want to nutrient chase with these plants so one of my questions is whether it is normal for citrus to show signs of nutrient stress in the spring (cooler weather). I have read that it is somewhat normal, but this was for ground grown citrus where the soil is too cool for proper nutrient availability. Since these are container grown with synthetic, water soluble ferts I wasn't sure what to expect.

Could you post some pics? As long as they are in a good quality potting mix they will come around and do just fine. How many days were they in transit? I personally would not worry about any deficiencies unless the tree puts out new growth that still does not look healthy. I am in FL so it may not apply to your situation, but my plants never have yellowing leaves at any time of year.

Could you post some pics? Sure.
As long as they are in a good quality potting mix they will come around and do just fine.

I suspect the same, but wonder why they arrive showing signs of nutrient stress.

Notice the leaves in the lower portion of the pic and how those near center of the container are showing what looks like iron issues. I am in FL so it may not apply to your situation, but my plants never have yellowing leaves at any time of year.

In your climate I wouldn't expect it either, I am just wondering if it is somewhat normal in cooler climates where citrus can't grow other than in containers/greehouses a part of the year.

{{gwi:585655}}

Here is a link that might help. I don't know how common it is, but you tree resembles the pic of the Zinc deficiency the most to me.

Here is a link that might be useful: deficiency guide

Hi Guy2,

The pictures help. I agree with JS. Throw in some chelated iron as well as epsom salts. The plant looks better than mine with the same problem. Mine are in the ground and are recovering fast. It is getting much warmer now.
Good Luck.

Hi justaguy!!!
How are you? I see you have a great question,because I too had the same problem every year. But I am have putting all my wealth of info in my head together from this site and my friend is studying to be a horticulturist, then doing what works for me.
It is true, plants , especially Citrus have a tough time taking up nutrients when the soil is cold, especially in the forties. They survive and hang on, but they just don't grow until the pot warms up. I actually had some of my trees on heat pads in the winter, and they were so much healthier than the ones that were not.
So I guess it would be safe to say that they starve when cold, and eat when warm..Lol
I have been able to avoid for the first time leaves that look yellow or anything less than very light green form cold temps . My method. I would bring them inside until night time temps stayed aboved 50. If I left them out, then I expected nutritional problems. I also sprinkled a little CRF osmocote with minors "NEW" fertiizer and at every watering, feed Foliage pro from Dyno-gro at a very week dilution in a gallon of water. I also bought Ironite and use as directed. This takes all the guess work out of what they need , because everything is supplied, and if I get alot of rain, or water by hose, the CRF is a great back up in missed doses of liquid fertilzer. I feed all the acaid loving plants I have, once a month , with a dose of Miracid. I do all this becuase I too grow in a very fast well draining soil as you, and all these nutrients are so needed. If you keep your plants in a greenhouse, of course they will be constantly eating,at constant warm temps, but outdoors,depending how cold it gets, they will miss doses until soil warms, but the nutrients will always be there for when their warm enough to feed. You will notice how well they will look, as summer approaches!!
Mine look really nice for the first time in history, growing in Al's soiless mix.
In some of my mixed soils I did use gypsum and use a good fertilizer that Al's made for me to compliment it. But then in the ones that I left out gypsum, I use Foilage Pro and CRF and they look just as healthy.
FYI....Just got back from the Carribeans, and I desperately looked for a nice green Citrus tree in my yard and surrounding neighborhoods, and they too looked yellow as yours and not the best of color. Actually, mine here looked better. So I think the soils even in the south lack the nutrients they need to grow at their full dark green potential...Encouragement for us hey. You don't have to live in the south to have great looking trees.
Justaguy, I think even in the fall and winter we will run into the same problem unless we find a way to grow our trees in contant warm temps.That is why I pray to be able to have a greenhouse someday!!
That is why mine are in full sun, and until the 40's appear again, I can keep them out at all times while they constantly bask in a buffet of foods.;-) Hope I helped you.
It was great chatting with ya..Mike

Justaguy, one added thing,
I ended up talking to a Palm tree supplier in the south and asked him why his trees looked so green and healthy....He feeds them constanly all year long, and his trees are always taking up nutrients, because his greenhouse is always brite ,warm, and moist. So his trees are always growing at their full potiental in a perfect enviroment. I guess I would be healthier too if I could live like that.. I guess if we could do this for our plants, alot of us would have the best looking, fast growing, green trees in our possession...So I guess we can only do the best we can for what we have to offer our trees, which is constant changes in their enviroment,temps, lite, and moister. We are doing a GREAT job if we can at least keep ours alive..LOLOLOL
Nice picture by the way..;-)
Take care for now...

Man, I just had a revelation!!!
If my grass doesn't utilize the fertilzer I throw on it especially nitrogyn,in the start of spring until night temps stay above 45 degrees and warm days, until the soil really warms up, my grass explodes with deep green and fast growth. My lawn sucks the nutrients right up. In one week wowa. Then when it gets to hot, lets say in the 90's with night time temps above the 70's, it stops growing, and can even burn with the same fertilizer I put in the spring,grass even turn a yellow, wouldn't the same hold true for potted plants even more so?
Maybe we should sink our plants in the ground or surround them with bark mulch to keep the soil temps in the pots more at a consistant warm temp, not cold nor hot, and then maybe we are talking green plants....Hum....does this make sense? I think soil temps in pots, makes or breaks our sucess with our trees along with all other things. I really think the root of most of our problems is soil temp #1, then acidity, and so on. Cold soil temps not only affect nutrition, but even watering needs, cold soil temps = root rot if not careful. Maybe kristinas problem with her trees is do to extreme temp changes to her potted trees too, in her earlier post..what do you think?

Hey Mike, good to see you as well. Thanks to lehua13 and jsvand5 too.

I think I am just going to wait for the warm up that hopefully comes soon and see what happens with the trees.

I suspect it is just the too cool of temps for them to be using the nutrients I have provided.