UPDATE: This is the largest shrub close to the stairs. We went out and bought electric shears and I had a go at the ilex shrubs. I had never used them before or trimmed a shrub for that matter so I practiced first on the ones kind if in the back. There were two encroaching in the sidewalk. One next to the drive and one next to the front steps. The one by the steps was the largest. I tried my best to get them to be the pyramid shape but mostly they are vertical at best (one is a little bigger at the top, IMO)I am sure I will have to go back once my hands regain their feeling and trim and take a little more to get that shape. The one near the steps goes over the side walk at its corner, but not one the front or side. Also, the hubs and I came to a temporary compromise. I am going to try to transplant one if the smaller ones in between the two corner beasts into the bare spot left by the dead plant. It might succumb to whatever the first one died if, assuming it survives the transplant. One if the remaining two is sickly, so I will get rid if him and maybe try to find another suitable site for the lady one. In between the two corner ilex, I am thinking if planting something more appropriate, maybe a small azalea. I have a post on the azalea board looking for recommends. Any thoughts are appreciated. Also, any advice in transplanting one if the smaller ilex? I stay at home with kids so I can water it religiously if that us what's needed. I can also wait until fall if that us my only option. I do have two chances because if the first transplant doesn't make it, I can try again with the other healthy looking one.

My Christmas Amaryllis that I planted out in the garden sometimes bloom, but not dependably. Not quite sure what the trick is there. Hardy Amaryllis are quite lovely if you can get your hands on some bulbs. They're smaller than the big showy Christmas ones but they multiply fairly quickly and are beautiful in mass. And as others have already said, glads will come back. Dahlias are hit or miss if you don't dig them. Daylilies are right at home here. Although every once in a while you may obtain a variety that doesn't take well to our heat and humidity. Some are bred for more Northern climates and will just sort of limp along, sometimes die out altogether. By far though most varieties will grow, bloom and multiply like crazy here.

Thanks for the link Luis. That is what my leaves are doing before they get crispy brown. They look wilted, as if they needed water, and then dry up. Eventually, I can then break the twig off. I may have injured the new growth when I planted the newer camellia. I've also planted a small Tama No Ura that I broke a dead twig off. It's easy to bump new growth. However, all these camellias came from the same source, and I'm not sure who this camellia nursery gets their stock from. I suspect a variety of places. It makes me wonder. I also discovered in my web searches that there had been a problem with camellias coming from Monrovia at one time, and that there had been a quarantine. Perhaps some Florida nursery stock got contaminated and is spreading something. However, I do not want to blame this local nursery for anything that may not even be remotely their issue. Once infected, is the plant always infected, or can it be pruned away quickly enough? In the case of my Rutledge, I did go ahead and dig a section of the roots and pulled up enough to look at the roots. This probably hasn't done this bush much good, but it may be very ill anyway. One thing I discovered is that there was a half inch diameter root mingled with this camellia's root from a Drake Elm we had growing 25 feet or so away. The Drake Elm was removed about a year ago, as we were concerned about hurricaine issues, our septic system, and the foundation of the house. Some of the elm roots keep sprouting and I have to keep after them, but I'm hoping some of them are dying. This may be a factor in the decline of this camellia, although the ones next to it planted at the same time are fine. Lady Vansittart is still the picture of health, but she may be a stronger camellia. The other thing that I saw, although I didn't actually dig them up extensively, is that many of the roots surrounding the trunk are a reddish color, while some of the ones further extending from the rootball are still white. I'm wondering if this is root rot, or is this a normal coloration? The soil was not soggy at all. We obviously have sandy soil here in Florida, even with ammendments mixed in. The soil was still a nice mixture of sand and the compost/ peat mix that had been broken down. I did read somewhere that camellias can get root rot even if growing conditions are ideal. We have been extremely dry and haven't had rain in 2 months. I irrigate, but it isn't the same. I would still think this camellia would have adapted. I am worried about soil contamination, and am wondering if another camellia can be planted in the same spot. I can't find much detailed information anywhere. I don't feel our coopperative extension has much knowledge in this particular area. About all I get from them is the typical "canned" answers. So far, I have gotten the healthiest, most beautiful camellias from Erinon Nursery in Plymouth, Forida. I won't be purchasing from anywhere else now.

Hi Well Neps are very mineral hardy, out of all the CP's they can do pretty well with mineral rich water, not to say that its good for them. I would not advise you put ANY fertilizer of ANY SORT in its drinking water that gets to the roots, only a foliar feed would be suggested here. Your potting mix sounds fine, you want a mix that is very well draining and that will just stay moist but never be water logged. Many people use Coir, from what Ive read it does not do that well with other CP's though. An easy mix for a Nep (traditional mix) would be something like 2 parts Perlite, 1 Part Sphagnum Peat. I went a more "deluxe route" now back in South Africa by potting like this: Put layer of Long Fibre Sphagnum on bottom of pot to stop any soil mix from escaping. 1 part of each of these mixed together: Perlite, Vermiculite, LFS, Peat Moss, Orchid Bark I did this as a test with Peter D' Amato's "Deluxe Nep Mix", Im missing 2 or 3 things from his like Pumice, Charcoal and Lava Rock. The Neps seem very happy and are growing at a good rate. I cant say that they are any happier than when I grew them in 2 parts Perlite and 1 Part Peat though. Superthrive ia a great growth addetive, but I've seen and heard the bad side of too much on many CP's news groups. Over use of it also appears to lead to a HUGE mass of leaf growth, the downside is that there are no pitchers produced. From testing the growers have found that a monthly misting (half recommeded dosage on bottle) gives the plant an extra boost with folige growth and still has its large good looking pitchers. Many people have wondered if SuperThrive is a gimick or not. I attempted to test this with leaf cuttings as well as newly purchased plants. The Superthrive soaked leaves (D Capensis) did produce plantlets long before the untreated leaves and had faster growth to begin with. The new plants that where under stress from shipping and from climatising (D. Capensis Giant, Alba, Typical and D. Aliciae Typical) had their roots soaked for 30 minutes in a solution of 1 drop per cup full of water. The results where that the soaked plants adapted and started growth a few weeks before the unsoaked plants got their act together. From what I've seen it has benefit, mabey its just coincidence, but seems to be good stuff. Happy growing n good luck Sheldon