Mine did that too in the summer time and we're in similar growing zones (7). I attribute it to the heat, thought I've never though much about it. Many of my oncidium alliance plants suffer from those spots. I suspect its the heat, because growths that occur during the winter (when my plants are indoors and under lights) don't develop the leaf spotting. There's nothing you can do to get rid of the spots that are already there, aside from cutting away the leaves, but that's not a good idea. Basically, they're just cosmetic damage, the leaves are otherwise healthy and productive. As far as the leaf tip damage, you may be letting the plant dry out a bit too much between waterings OR you might be over watering (and killing off the roots). Sounds kind of odd doesn't it? Anyway, increasing the humidity would probably help with the spotting and leaf tip die back. I'd also suggest checking the roots to see if they are white and healthy with lots of green growing tips. If they look bad, don't worry too much, but cut back on watering for a bit and consider repotting the plant. Personally I wouldn't divide the plant when you repot. It actually looks fairly young and there aren't all that many growths (for a Twinkle). Give a another year or two before you consider breaking it up...really let it get large and healthy unless it's completely over grown the pot. Your plant is at least another growing season or two away from that point, though.

You should probably let Ted know this happened. I do know for a fact, from firsthand experience, that sp. Square leaf is extremely tough. Basically, if it's still green, and not crispy, it has a good chance of recovering. I took a couple cuttings from a plant that just kept looking worse and worse, and those cuttings are now growing and finally out of ICU and out in the open. The original plant died. Before they recovered though, they were almost completely wrinkled and pretty much looked dead to me, except they were still green. I had one cutting in a terrarium, and the other potted and set inside a plastic bag. Both methods worked fine. I have fitchii also but I did not have to root it, so I can't say how it roots, but I imagine it may also recover for you. I would try bagging that one too. Just make sure to keep an eye out for mold. I generally use Physan if I see that starting. I've decided that subcalva likes to be warm, in bright but indirect light, and doesn't like to dry out. I had a little trouble with this one, until it got warmer in my room, I put it closest to the window, and I kept it moist. Now it is growing pretty steadily. Also, I feel like it is one of those that doesn't show much top growth until it has done a lot of root growth first. We'll see how it fares this winter. If it starts declining again, I'll know it is almost certainly the temperature. It can definitely dip below 70 in my room during winter, and I've read somewhere that it doesn't like to be in temps lower than 70.

Zoffia No, it was not mentioned. But many leaves will do the same, without any help. Even just sitting on a tray or table - without any soil or anything else. Here are some leaves that were just waiting to be tossed in compost, on a plastic saucer, and they grew very vigorous roots and even plantlets. This is in less than a week - roots started to appear within 24 hrs on most, and plantlets in about 4 days: No water, n soil, no rooting hormone of any kind... ETA: But we know that there are few succulents that will not propagate from leaves, regardless of what is put on them, but from offsets. Rooting hormone is not needed for offsets either. I am not against using it, but why bother?

Aquarium gravel will do just fine (not large pebbles). I got about 6gal for free on freecycle (or try kijiji or craigslist). I do not know anything about orostachys, I never had one. But it will be very similar care to other succulents: good drainage (mix and container) and good light. If yours is very wet and has crawlies, good chance they are some of the bugs that may not harm the plant, but like wet/moist and organic environment. You probably know about zillions of them being in compost - similar idea. I see there is lots of bark which wouldn't be problem except if it was kept too wet, and the rest is likely peat - too water retentive. Looks like you already repotted? Make sure the mix dries out between watering - you can help yourself with a bamboo skewer or chopstick; insert deeper than 1/2 into the pot - try not to poke roots. If it comes out cold and/or has some particles sticking to it, soil is still too wet. Wait another 2-3 days to water (when the stick comes out dry and clean). If you manage to get the gravel, add some to all of your succulents. If not, keep using plenty of perlite. As for bugs - this plant could get the root mealy bugs. It is difficult to know since it is in the soil, but there will be white cottony stuff on the roots (not brown crawlies). I read that it will propagate from offsets like sempervivum - many offsets will start growing roots before separating. Cut off most of the stolon (the part it was attached to mother) leaving the roots, pot up into well draining mix. Do not water until you see it growing. Apparently one should avoid getting water on rosettes. Hope you didn't water it after repotting, I believe it was wet enough - that assumption is based on what you said. It will need lots of light - just as most succulents - the photos I have seen are of very compact plants..