I might recommend that you study your soil a little bit. Could you guess what the pH of your soil is or perhaps the pH of your local water? If the plant is in an alkaline environment you can add all the micronutrients you have but they may not be "bioavailable" i.e they would be bound up as some metal oxide in the soil never free to pass into the roots. How deep did you plant the tree? The soil you described should not be compacted especially this soon but if the roots are compacted they may have poor aeration and be susceptible to a fungus. If you can check to see that your roots are nice and white and not brown or slimy. As for the pH issue you can adjust the pH using sulfur (lowers pH, more acidic) or lime (raise pH, more alkaline). Fish emulsion is not particularly strong nor does it contain very much nitrogen. The Jobes organic fertilizer may take a while to break down into bioavailable nutrients. I am not sure but I have heard that the break down of organic fertilizers requires soil borne bacteria which may be absent if your soil is too sterile thus further delaying the incorporation of the nutrient. Also make sure it is getting enough sun. Dont go crazy buying a million products to fix your plant. Patience pays off. Many folks recommend DynaGro foliage pro (solube inorganic fertilizer) that might be a good start. Its not cheap but it has a good NPK and micros balance. Also many recommend using Osmocote plus as a slow release, but your Jobes would work just as well now that you have it already. Lastly dig gown deep into the soil to check for water logging. The top might look and feel dry but it may be water logged 3 or 4 inches below. Good Luck.

Laura, hey)) What I can tell you Jay is that if you were fertilizing with Foliage Pro weekly or weakly every week without let up, warm temps above 55 at all times and using vinegar in your solution often, you should of had rich green leaves...The Foliage Pro lacks nothing and the vinegar helps your trees take up nutrients if the pH of your watering solution should get a bit high to lock nutrients... Laura you've been doing a fantastic job with her trees as we can tell...On average, most are richly green and growing robustly even now! What I can tell you from years of growing them is that unstable temps, a change of lighting, less sunlight , cool temps below 55 and over watering can cause what Jay has and these conditions usually correct themselves during the summertime.. Some leaves will revert to green while others will stay yellow like that and eventually fall off... What I do always is make sure if I am fertilizing, to provide as much artificial light or sunlight in any south facing window on the window sill. or in a greenhouse as possible to correct those issues..If I am going to provide anything less, then I try and not worry about it until they can go back outside again.... My highest priority is to watch my watering schedule and to make sure they are pest free because they will not have the vitality like they do in summer and are prone to pests in this state without beneficial pests..So these two are my most concerns and everything comes after if I have the time or think of it...It's been working great for me every year and I have yet to loose a tree...I wish I could keep them richly green all year, but 3 months out of four is quite difficult unless you can provide the perfect conditions during them times too.... Jay, you said that they grew as green as they could all summer and that they doubled..That tells me your fertilizer worked and the weather was in your favor..Somewhere along the line either your tree was exposed to cool temps, a lack of fertilizer, not enough vinegar of all three...Did you apply a 'slow release' fertilizer in your mix? Have you ever accidentally forgot to water it? It looks pretty dry from here...Do you use tap water, lots of it, all summer too, or rain water.....??? Laura, if that stuff works, please let me know. I would like to think it's not a systemic problem going on verses topical...I have that stuff too I bought years ago and never used it. I might as my trees come out of winter growth to speed things up...Thanks

Graham, That really stinks that you can't put it outside..I can imagine you wanting to for sure. You are trying your best. I would say you are getting the reverse effect of a lack of DIRECT sunlight. Is the sun way above the window at this angle giving that tree just sunlight, not direct sun? If anything, if that tree can hang on another month or two, which it just might as long as you watch your watering habits and that mix is porous, it will probably actively start growing once the sun dips below the top of your window and start shining directly in it as the sun angle lowers... That is exactly what use to happen to my sisters when she had to keep hers inside all summer. Please, keep us update, As long as the roots are ok, it might have a chance. I just hope the roots will survive long enough without leaves to help them along. Keeping my fingers crossed for ya.

It has long ago been proven putting rocks in the bottom of a container is a bad idea. Doing so raises the perched water table higher into the container and the tree's root system As to your soil test results, the nitrogen should be high, the phosphorous should test rather low and the potassium should be high. Below I have posted a link showing citrus with a potassium deficiency. https://www.google.com/search?q=potassium+deficiency+citrus&rlz=1C1OKWM_enUS900US900&oq=potassium+deficiency+in+citrus+leaves&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0.27068j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-B AND https://www.yara.us/crop-nutrition/citrus/nutrient-deficiencies/potassium-deficiency-on-mandarin-citrus/