Fruitnut tipped me off to your post. You do not say where in Arizona you are so I will keep my comments general. I am only in the beginning of my third year in BYOC. I have well over 200 fruit and nut trees planted in a half acre that includes a 2,200sq ft. home in a flood irrigated lot. Planting trees together in a hole works well as far as growth goes. It is still too early to say about fruit production as only a dozen or so trees (mostly peach/nectarine) set fruit their second season and I stripped all of those off as soon as I spotted them as the trees are too young to be fruiting. Have the people who are dissing BYOC tried it?---I bet not. They simply go with the claim that trees must be planted 10 or more feet apart, blah, blah, blah. Nothing like 800+ peaches on a tree that you have to get eaten/processed/given away within 10 days period before it rots! High density planting works in Phoenix. Greg Peterson at Urban Farm has over 80 fruit trees on his 1/3 acre (with 1,750 sq ft home) most planted three feet apart along boundary lines. But I do not think he has any multiples to a hole. If you are in the Phoenix area you can ask him tomorrow (Wednesday). Be warned, he is whom got me started---I only attended a class of his 3 years ago to plant maybe 2-4 trees, and look at me now. http://www.urbanfarm.org/ http://www.phoenixpermaculture.org/events/fruit-trees-with-greg-peterson-9 Basically the limits IMHO are soil (usually not as bad as people always claim, the summer, if you go with tropicals the winter depending upon the temps it gets at your place, your current resources, your planned resources, how you lay things out, the varieties (cultivars) and species you chose and the rootstocks you get them upon and finally your practices. The results are dependent upon proper pruning and a reasonable amount of observation and care (fertilizing and pesticide). In addition to the two links above, the other resources are Googling both your County Cooperative Extension and Master Gardeners. The Arizona Rare Fruit Growers as well if in Phoenix area. And I rather like local nurseries as well for answering pest, and other questions appropriate to your area. edit: I suppose I should make it clear almost all of my fruit trees are planted 4 to a hole, 18" apart and 7' between holes. My target height is 8'. I keep rootstocks and species the same in a hole if I can, but not seems to work too. You can plant trees within 6" of one another effectively growing them into a single trunk down the line, and straight up or slightly angled out from one another. Tom Spellman prefers 3' apart for easier pruning. I cluster cross pollinating close to make it easy on the insects. If you live in the zone 9b and 10 areas, and possibly the 9a areas, there is no summer pruning. Once it hits above 85F the trees stop growing so there is no need to prune in the summer. You prune just before summer to let some air and light into the canopy by keep in mind shading the trunk is numero uno. Paint trees white with water based latex (50% diluted works too) to protect from sunburn. Heavy organic mulch at least 4" to protect roots from temps and desiccation and improve soil life and fertility---I use predominately wood chips. I have not had a great deal of success with nut trees. I have pecans for a primary canopy and almonds for a western shade on the house. Remember self fruitful is great but across pollinator usually produces more and larger fruit. In some cases more seeds. If you live in zone 8/9/10 Arizona you can grow darned near anything except some berries without too much fuss. The sky is the limit. And with proper selection you can have both year round gardening and fresh fruit. Here is another BY orchard class on the 26th in the Phoenix area, by one of the most ingenious people I have met: http://www.meetup.com/GardenPool-org/events/141868522/ Here is a link that might be useful: You might want to start reading here This post was edited by Fascist_Nation on Tue, Oct 15, 13 at 15:27

Just like someone mentioned before: do everything backwards from what you've learned... not really, but honestly if you've amassed gardening know-how up north, you might as well chuck most of that knowledge in the "doesn't apply here" bin and listen to the folks on this forum. Gardening in AZ is extremely different from gardening up north. one thing to always remember: If the label on a plant at Home Depot or Walmart says "Full Sun", in most cases that translates to "morning sun, afternoon shade". There are not a whole lot of plants that can thrive in our full sun although there are some good ones. The winters here still do get cold enough at times that we can't grow tropicals without protection. Yeah we don't get too many freezes, but we do get them from time to time, so things like avocados, bananas, mango, are a challenge here. There are a few things you can grow in the summer, but your main gardening seasons will be spring and fall. I'm mostly an edibles gardener so my post will reflect that. In the summer I've had good luck with Armenian cucumbers, Okra, Cantaloupe and Watermelons (they use a lot of water, but they love the heat). Corn is supposed to also do ok in the summer, but I haven't tried that yet. In the fall you can do a lot of things. Since the growing season is fairly short so you need to go with short season varieties. Winter is one of my favorites for gardening here. That's when I do greens. Carrots, Parsley, herbs, Lettuce, Brocolli (It does extremely well here over the winter), peas, spinach...basically all your salad greens. So from about late Oct until around March, you can be swimming in greenery. I was supplying my whole extended family's salad needs most of last winter. The soil here in most places is about the worst soil you could imagine. Mine is hard clay, with caliche that is about as hard as concrete when dry. Some areas have a lot of crushed granite. There are areas with good soil as this used to be an agricultural area. The first thing I would do if I got a plot of land here to garden is I would dig out the soil in some of the areas where I plan on having a garden and get several BIG loads of horse manure and dump it in that area, then let it compost into place. Stuff breaks down fast here IF you keep it moist. BTW, you can get as much horse manure as you want around here for free, there are several places that have horses and they'll load your truck or trailer. In a few years you can develop some decent soil around your property and that will help a lot. I wouldn't bother with bagged "compost" or garden soil and crap like that. I think the quality of that stuff here is terrible and it's not worth the money. The soil here is very alkaline, which means that putting lime or ash on it makes it worse. You want to acidify it if possible by using sulfur. A little vinegar in the water can help temporarily. Also gypsum helps break down the clay. Plants need a good amount of nitrogen here because the heat breaks it down very fast so fruit trees will need to be fertilized at least quarterly. Some of the mineral deficiencies common here are iron and zinc defficiency. If you acidify your soil a little, it helps quite a bit. For iron, I don't like ironite, but chelated iron seems to work much better. Some fruit trees that do well here would be most of your citruses, dates, figs (very nice for ornamental and shade purposses as well), pommegranates are a piece of cake here. Peaches and nectarines will do ok too. A few varieties of grapes (especially Thompson seedless) do extremely well here if they get some afternoon shade. One of your biggest challenges will be birds, insects and diseases. Ants (particularly fire ants) will make you really really hate Arizona at times. I hate the nasty SOBs. Pest problems develop very FAST here, and you need to address them early. Some things have easy organic solutions, like for grape leaf skeletonizers you can spray them with BT which is safe (not poisonous) and they'll be gone. Other problems like white flies can be really hard to get rid of without pesticides and they can get inflict some serious damage if they get out of control. In my opinion, here you get several years's worth of plant growth in one year (I'd say in some cases about 3 yrs worth) and that translates into a LOT of work. pruning, digging up weeds...etc. A good thing to know here is that in AZ they encourage people to recycle their graywater by using it on ornamentals. I changed the plumbing in part of my house to allow my bathwater to go to my shade trees. Water is not cheap here, and if you're going to garden, it's going to be a precious commodity. For shade trees there are a lot of choices but I've fallen in love with Sissoo. Fast growing, not messy, can handle some drought, looks beautiful.

Not a problem: http://www.phoenixpermaculture.org/forum/topics/free-calamondin-aka-kalamansi-fruits?id=2008067:Topic:399890&page=1 http://www.phoenixpermaculture.org/photo/very-first-calamondin-harvest?commentId=2008067:Comment:438611&xg_source=activity https://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/morton/calamondin.html http://www.citrusvariety.ucr.edu/citrus/calamondin.html edit BTW: I'd consider planting it either in late Sept/early Oct. or late January. Obviously the former would need frost cloth protection in the winter depending upon what microclimate you planted it into. But you get that head start on rooting and growing before summer hits. Here is a link that might be useful: Calamondin aka Calamansi and various spellings This post was edited by Fascist_Nation on Thu, Jul 17, 14 at 16:04

UCR does release to individuals. It's just that the professionals get served first. (Nurserymen, growers, etc) #1 Email them and get on the list #2 Ask them to include your request on the budwood release for June. They have had a citrus halimii in their collection since 1985 and 1971 They also have a Eremocitrus glauca hybrid in the collection since 1930. Not sure if this is the same...