Containers of hardy plants generally do not require much in the way of special protection over the winter in a zone as mild as 7. There are some exceptions - plants which may prefer very dry soil conditions might fair better if protected from the worst of the rains, etc. But clematis, hostas and other hardy perennials, trees and shrubs can be left out through the winter in a zone 7, provided the container is of sufficient size. If your garage is unheated, then the plants can go back outside now. No need to to do this gradually unless the garage temps have been consistantly above 50F. If a sharp frost or sudden cold spell is predicted, then cover the pots at night. Grouping them together will also afford some additional protection. My nursery is located in a zone 7b and operates all year long. Containerized hardy plants are left outside all year as well, including those as small as gallon sized perennials and 4" groundcovers. Winter damage is minimal and is usually associated with too much wet/too moisture retentive a container soil rather than cold damage. Wholesalers in the area also grow their containerized crops outdoors all winter as well.

If you follow Citrus's instructions and do not over water at this time, it should be just fine.. You will get to know your tree well and it will respond to your care because you care and came here to be successful... The two main cause for twig die back other than being pot bound is over or under watering.. When you bring a tree inside, usually within a few days once it senses it is not in its favorite environment, it can take days or weeks for the roots to resume taking up moisture like before because they rebel and try to adjust..It is critical that at this time that the roots are in a very porous mix and not stay wet for days...Because growth has almost stopped, the roots can get damaged by rot. I always notice that at certain times my trees will all of sudden dry out slower than usual and stop taking up moisture as they once had outdoors..Once things resume as usual, usually within a few weeks, you will notice that you will have to water more frequently again.. It is important at this time that you do not under water... Hope this helps for the next time you have to do a drastic change to its environment or root disturbance.. I wish your tree all the best and I know it will respond to its sunny spot there and longer days..Even more so once put outdoors again) Mike This post was edited by meyermike_1micha on Sat, Feb 1, 14 at 22:45

I believe they are grafted. The trees look super healthy. Had a problem about 4 months ago with scale but it's been taken care of and the trees really look good. Is it possible that the fertilizer is working to promote new growth - which is abundent, instead of promoting fruit growth and if so, is there anything I can do? This tree is like my third child, it gets so much attention :)

Yes, you can buy urea. Have you been told about the consequences? Everything that you did not write, I finished thinking for you, since I represent WHAT YOU NEED. I believe you should buy the least problematic fertilizer for the grower, and for the tree, in the long run. And, the effectiveness on the fruits is secondary. If you buy urea. - Urea causes strong branch growth. Do you want the tree even taller than it is now? - It is not known how Urea will act on boron. - Biuret 1% is a lot for citrus fruits. I don't know what the result will be. Biuret will probably hit the flowers hard, but at the same time it will hit the leaves ... You need to accurately calculate the dose. I don’t want to take it upon myself as to what dose is needed.