Calif. vs. Fla. citrus
culbreathbay
12 years ago
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hoosierquilt USDA 10A Sunset 23 Vista CA
12 years agojean001a
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Fla. roses VS. Calif. roses
Comments (15)Lots of good points, above -- I agree -- too humid, too much rain for much of the year (hence, blackspot), poor soils, and high night temperatures. It's all just stressful. On the other hand, when those factors are alleviated, we can grow a nice rose. I was just noticing last week at FSC's gardens, how lush and amazing they are at the moment. Of course we grow them in a highly organic soil, fertilize and irrigate heavily, and this time of year, we get relatively little rain, mild days, and cool nights. Perfect! And the roses have responded. The Maggie hedges, especially, are simply amazing at the moment. 8' plus tall, dense with deep green foliage, and just covered with flowers. Too bad the combination of events (resembling N. California) won't stick around for long... But at the moment, I think several varieties are just about as "good" as they can be....See MoreHelp - Mandarin tree not looking so good
Comments (10)hoosierquit, You may well be correct that is a root oxygen problem. From the small amount of information Michael988 has provided us, I think we are all guessing. I also think you might benefit by finding a new azalea potting mix or check the pH of your 2 components before you mix them. The azalea mix I use for my blueberries starts out at pH 5.07. So, you either have a mix that will kill azaleas (entirely possible) or your compost is at a pH of 6.5 or higher with significant buffering capacity (also entirely possible), but to get a pH of 6.5 in your 1:1 mix, one of my 2 statements must be correct. There is TREMENDOUS variation in the quality of retail mixes and components that people put into mixes out there which makes it very difficult to advise people when they encounter a problem. Here are 2 publications discussing the variability: http://horttech.ashspublications.org/content/15/4/752.full.pdf http://horttech.ashspublications.org/content/16/1/7.full.pdf The point I was trying to make about pH I think is still a reasonable guess. As I tried to say above, over watering leading to the roots not getting adequate oxygen could be part or all of the problem. I will say I know of no mechanism whereby "too much organic materials" should cause a problem unless the particles are very small and comprise a high percentage of the mix such that you do not have adequate air space. But small particles in no way have to be organic to cause that problem. Why couldn't the azalea mix Michael988 used be pH 5 or even somewhat lower? I know it is entirely possible to get pine bark and presumably mulch that is below pH 3. The first bag of pine bark I ever bought was pH 2.9. Ted Bilderback, a professor at North Carolina State University and possibly the primer expert on growing in pots in soilless media in the world, discusses problems with pine bark that extend to all conifer chip products in the link below. Even under normal circumstances, the pH of pine bark should be between 4 & 5. So, if his mulch is pH 5 or lower and his azalea mix is pH 5 or lower, I do not think it is unreasonable to think another mix is not going to raise the pH to 6 and it seems to me there is a significant likelihood that the pH of his mix is in the low 5s. Bad for citrus. I have been reading these forums for some time now & only recently started posting. I do see very similar sorts of problems arise again & again. It is extremely unfortunate that many, even most based on the publications above, of the potting mix manufacturers do not produce a quality controlled product. hoosierqulit, you clearly encountered that problem with your blueberry mix. Entirely to your credit, you solved that problem and, I bet, you are happy with your blueberries now. I also bet that solving that problem was a real pain and cost you some bucks. michael988, good luck with your problem! You have a number of guesses of things to try or look at. Wherever reality lies, it appears you need to get that tree out of the mix you have it in. A possible, reasonably straight-forward fix is to ask hoosierquilt for pertinent details on where to get EB Stone's Cactus Mix and how she would transfer a tree under your set of circumstances. I grow my citrus in a home made blend that you do not appear to have time to make as it takes awhile to get the components. Here is a link that might be useful: insights into pine bark variables...See MoreNew Citrus Additions on their Way!
Comments (12)Yikes, Mike! You and I weigh the same. More determined than ever to get this 20 lbs. off, lol!! Glad your trees survived, and only minimal damage was experienced. And glad your dad is doing well, looking forward to his avocado photos! And, I have my first container citrus :-) I was a little concerned about the small Ortanique I bought. Just not greening up like it should have, plus the pot it came in from the nursery seemed too heavy to me after watering, which to me means too much water retention, so I decided to repot it yesterday. Good thing I did. The soil had a definite anaerobic smell (i.e., it stunk). And, most of the soil fell away from the rootball, so not good root formation. I very carefully removed as much soil as I dared, and repotted in EB Stone Cactus Mix. I have it on my east facing patio, so it will get afteroon shade, which is good right now, since it's been in the high 80's to low 90's. You can see tiny new flush, plus teeny tiny buds at the end of the branches. So, hoping it will green up for me after the roots recover. will fertilize it with 1/2 strength Foliage Pro in a week or two. Patty S....See MoreQuestions Re: use of Xmas lights
Comments (45)Absolute zero for foliage is different for different varieties. Anywhere from 32 to 15 degrees.Consider absolute zero for foliage to be when the leaves freeze to death. Absolute zero or 55.4F pertains to citrus roots. At 55.4F citrus roots cease to function. You are correct WLD is not a serious problem for trees grown outside. However for trees grown indoors in an artificial situation WLD can be a problem as many, many hobbiest can attest. You seem to generally have a good understanding of the problem. When a citrus tree is placed in a cool room and the foliage is directly in front of a southern exposure a problem can occur. Direct sunlight can easily raise the leaf surface 18+ degrees above the ambient air temperature, depending on the duration of time the tree is subjected to these conditions. If the tree's roots are at 55.4F degrees or lower the citrus roots cannot and do not function. They cannot sent the required water up to the foliage for evaporation to cool the leaves. Even at temperatures closely above 55.4F the root's ability is many times insufficient to properly cool the tree. Many times WLD happens after a very sunny day. WLD rarely happens after cloudy days. Stressbaby, your correct in your thinking. The value of the lights for a tree in the situation that I described above is to keep the growing medium's temperature high enough so that the roots can operate. If your greenhouse conditions are such that the temperatures can keep the roots approximately at 64 degrees then you should not need the extra protection that lights can afford. Unless you are only trying to obtain the maxium growth out of your trees all year around. An example an orange tree in Florida might take 10 years from seed to produce fruit, but the same tree in the tropics might only take half the time. BTW nice home and greenhouse. Your an interesting person, I'm glad you joined the citrus forum. Take care. - Millet...See Moremksmth zone 7a Tulsa Oklahoma
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12 years agohoosierquilt USDA 10A Sunset 23 Vista CA
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12 years agohoosierquilt USDA 10A Sunset 23 Vista CA
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12 years agohoosierquilt USDA 10A Sunset 23 Vista CA
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