clematis newbie - pls advice on trellis height and growth rate
17 years ago
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- 17 years ago
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Newbie looking for clematis as companion to climbing roses
Comments (5)Hello Bellarosa, Wow your pictures are so lovely! I love your combinations and I loved the photo of Billy Baffin with the nepeta and liatris and daisies down below to hide Billy's knees. Absolutely gorgeous! You should be proud that you have such a lovely home and garden, with a hubby that will actually dig you holes! Wow. Your pictures gave me a breath of summer, since we still have a ways to go before we will be smelling any roses in New England (that we've grown ourselves, anyway!) Tmac96 - I don't grow any of the roses that you ordered, but I do grow the clematis that Bellarosa mentioned and those vines are very easy after the third year. I have a rose garden in the front of my house (sorry no photos like B.R.) in an oval with an obelisk in the center. The obelisk is where the clematis climbs. I have three separate types/colors growing together. Madame Julia Correvon, Etoile Violet and Comptess DiBouchard. Since I'm a "lazy gardener" I cut all the vines down to 12" from the ground when I see the forsythia bloom. Every year this will be a different time, based on the weather. If I had the vines growing on the roses or along with the roses on a trellis, I would cut the vines at the 12" height and simply unravel them from the rose bush, cutting away any pieces or parts that might harm a swelling rose bud. Do a little reading on the types of clematis, A,B, or C or 1,2, or 3. Try to plant the types that get cut to the ground in early spring -- they are easy and very rewarding. (I require - high R.O.I. Return on Investment!!!) It's not so much the cost of the plants, or even the hard hole-digging labor, -- it's the anticipation I can't stand. I love the plants that come back every year bigger and better than ever with hardly any work on my part. Oh! And O yeah, plenty of reading and posting on GardenWEB....See MoreHuldine - define vigorous for a newbie please
Comments (6)Boy, I don't know. My VV is new and not too tall yet, but my Huldine climbs to the top of a crabapple tree (maybe 12') and this year is putting out 12 to 15 shoots. I think it might overwhelm the VV, and it will certainly want to grow taller than the trellis. I've never tried to keep a clem to only a certain height, so can't offer advice about that. Might it climb up one side of the trellis and fall down the other? I do agree that the two would look fantastic together. My VV is one of my favorites....See MoreHarry Lauder's Walking Stick--Trellis?
Comments (4)Hi Newbie_WI, I have a Harry, approx. 5'x4' and planted Venosa Violacea at his base this spring. So far so good. Venosa is a type 3 and not supposed to reach gargantuan heights so it seemed like a good companion anyhoo :). My Harry is a pretty fast grower now that he's been in the ground for a couple of yrs. I mainly planted the Venosa to hopefully hide Japanese Beetle damage since Harry seems to be their favorite and his leaves get turned to lace every summer. The main problem I foresee is that Harry is primarily a winter interest shrub and obviously his winter interest will be marred w/a dead clematis vine. I will probably prune Venosa in early winter to let Harry shine. Hopefully it will work out o.k.......See MoreQuestions about clematis from a newbie
Comments (9)Sorry - I didn't mean that comment to be flippant, only that all the sources I consider as being authoritative on clematis list Niobe as a group 2. And I wouldn't put a lot of weight on information provided by plant tags - they are notoriously misleading and often inaccurate. FWIW, the vast majority of the large flowered hybrids - like Niobe, Nelly Moser, Henryi and many other popular selections - will be pruning group 2 vines. It is important to remember that clematis pruning instructions are only guidelines - you can choose to follow them or not. It's not going to make a huge difference to the plant, except to possibly delay or limit flowering if you prune harder than suggested, or if you opt not to prune at all. The one suggestion I would make is that you prune hard regardless of pruning group for at least the first season. This helps the clematis to develop a big healthy root system and reduces the chances of wilt going forward. In my old garden, I had a vast collection of clematis (about 60) from all three pruning groups and it was just necessary because of time constraints to approach pruning as efficiently as possible. So I narrowed down the pruning groups to 2 - prune or not prune! Anything that bloomed exclusively on old growth (very early bloomers, mostly species clems) were not pruned unless growth became unruly. Otherwise, everything else was pruned back hard, like a group 3 (except for a tangutica growing in a 25' apple tree which was unreachable and left unpruned). All flourished and bloomed, although any group 2's may have been slightly delayed with their bloom cycle with this practice. The point is these vines are adaptable and flexible and it is not necessary to be absolutely precise in your pruning methods :-)...See More- 17 years ago
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