There are a few things you need to learn, a few you need to unlearn, and you need to learn to not listen to your neighbors about how they do their lawn care. I'm not saying I'm the only source of good information or that my information is ever the best, but there is waaaay more bad information going around than good. Stop reading your newspaper for information. From what I've read, that is the worst. Or if you read it, then just do the opposite of what it says. Seriously! When you read through everything I'm about to give you it might seem complicated. It isn't. Basic lawn care is all you need. The parts that seem complicated pertain to the issues which you may someday face. More likely you'll just hear about them from your neighbors and they'll scare you into running out and buying products you never needed. Just chill. St Aug is easy to excel at if you are patient. Patience is one of the things you should learn with any lawn. Not everything happens immediately. For example with St Augustine there is only one herbicide you can use with success, so you may as well get some now. You have weeds that will die out...eventually...with this stuff. Look for herbicide sprays with atrazine. Atrazine is known to be bad stuff, so you are limited to using it only once per year. Fortunately it works so well you might only need to use it once ever. It kills existing weeds and their seeds leaving just about nothing except the St Augustine. Here is one brand that works. Read the entire label before you use it. Note that when you spray, you walk backwards so that you don't get ANY of it on you. Don't use it if your wife is pregnant. It is bad stuff, but absolute hell on weeds. Also you should be aware that it takes seemingly forever to work. You can spray it and it will look the same for weeks. Then, all of a sudden, all the weeds are gone and there's nothing but St Aug left. The main thing that kills St Augustine is drying out. If it goes with absolutely no moisture for a month with temps above 90 degrees F, it is likely to die. It does not have a dormant stage. The second thing that kills St Augustine is fungal disease, but DO NOT RUN OUT AND BUY A FUNGICIDE. Please keep reading. Lastly the thing that kills St Aug is chinch bugs and sometimes grubs. Again, do not run out and buy an insecticide. Here are the basics for lawn care. These are only slightly customized for you in South Florida. 1. Watering Water deeply and infrequently. Note that you still have lawn remnants after a year with no watering and no care. Clearly (CLEARLY) you do NOT have to water the lawn every day like your neighbors are doing and like your sprinkler people insist and like your newspaper people are advising. When you water you should water deeply. Deeply means a full inch all at one time. In your sand 1 inch will soak right in instantly. We will work on retaining the moisture, but for now this is enough to know. When do you water? Basically when the grass tells you to. It will wilt. If you ever see any part of it wilting after several days with no moisture, water the entire lawn deeply. I like to use an oscillator sprinkler. It takes about 8 hours to water one zone with that sprinkler, so it's watering very slowly to get a full inch. But the oscillator applies the most even spread of water of all the sprinklers. Generally, when the temps are in the 90s every day and low humidity (not necessarily your area), you should water once a week. With higher humidity and/or lower temperatures in the 80s, you should water every 2 weeks. Again, watch your grass for signs of wilting and adjust based on those signs. I have a lawn on the edge of the South Texas desert. This year we had occasional soaking rains such that I did not turn on the hose until mid July. Clearly your lawn does not need to be watered every day. Watering deep and infrequently will practically eliminate all weeds without doing anything else. Why? Because weed seeds need continual moisture to germinate. When the soil dries out and remains dry at the surface for days or weeks, weed seeds can't get started. 2. Mowing Always mulch mow St Aug at the highest setting. There is never any reason to mow it at any lower setting than the highest. You can just weld your mower at the highest spot. At my desert lawn I keep it at from 9 to 12 inches tall using only a string trimmer. It looks great at that height, but it's no good for kids to play in. 3. Fertilizer The general advice you see for grass is to fertilizer once in the late spring and twice in the fall. Since you do not have a winter, you can do it differently. I will suggest you follow the federal holiday schedule so you don't forget. I start on Washington's Birthday, then Memorial Day, Labor Day, and Thanksgiving. If you want to use organic fertilizer, which I very strongly recommend, then also apply on 4th of July. 4. Air movement This is special for St Augustine. St Aug needs to have air circulation at all times. If you, for example, toss some palm fronds on the lawn and leave them overnight, in the morning the grass underneath will already have a fungal disease starting. It's just that fast. My wife seems to do this to me every year, so I have to treat it (organically). If you have or get Floratam, it will fight back from that disease process without doing anything. It's pretty amazing grass. If you don't have Floratam yet and you put one piece down, eventually you will have all Floratam because the rest will have died from one disease or another and the Floratam will have moved in. That's what is happening in my back yard in San Antonio. I put down one piece in 2011 and it took off covering the bermuda and everything but the most tenacious weeds. That's really all there is to lawn care for St Aug. Water, mow, and fertilize. You should never need to aerate or dethatch. Once your lawn becomes dense and you are not watering it multiple times per week, then it should never need weed control. If you can keep Mother Nature from keeping the grass too wet, you should never see fungal problems. Organics Organic gardening has a reputation for costing too much, smelling bad, and sometimes killing the lawn. That was old school organic and really old school organics. The modern approach to organic lawn care is really easy, effective, and inexpensive. Nowadays we are using ground up grains like corn, soybean, cottonseed, alfalfa, and even used coffee beans. What these give to the lawn is food value - quite literally. When you apply food to the soil, the microbes in the soil "digest" the food and turn it into plant food. Mother Nature has been doing this for literally billions of years. We only learned this about the soil in the 1990s. Now that we know this, it has revamped organic gardening completely. You can go to your local feed store and buy a 50-pound bag of corn meal or alfalfa pellets (rabbit chow), apply at a rate of 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet, and get incredible results. Really? (I can see you're skeptical) Here's another picture. This picture was taken by mrmumbles and posted here at GW back in 2011. He applied alfalfa pellets to the green spot in mid May and took the picture in mid June. You can see the improved color, density, and growth. So yes, it is very effective. Furthermore, you have sand and likely with little organic matter in the soil. The best way to put organic matter in the soil is to grow grass in it. Grass sheds about 1/3 of the root system every year. That 1/3 of the dead roots becomes organic matter in the soil and food for the microbes living there. When you water deeply as mentioned earlier, the roots will grow deeper and, when they die, they will provide organic matter deeper in the soil. It is this type of organic matter that will retain moisture in your soil/sand and allow you to go longer and longer between watering. Super deep roots is how I can go until July without watering in the desert. Organic herbicide There really isn't one. Vinegar spray on the foliage will kill most plants, but that includes St Augustine. Organic fungicide Corn meal at 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet is the only one we know of. For me it has worked every year since 2002. In fact if it wasn't for corn meal saving my lawn from annual disease, I would likely not be organic today. Organic insecticide There are three worth mentioning. One is called beneficial nematodes. These are not the root knot nematodes you might hear about in FL. These carry a disease that attacks only insects. Apply beneficial nematodes to wet soil and they will find insect hosts and infect them. The insects stop feeding immediately and that's that. Chief among the insects you should care about are chinch bugs and grubs. They are summer time pests, so you don't have to do anything now. The second organic insect killer is called BT Worm Killer. BT is a similar disease but it works on all caterpillars (only). If you get sod webworm, use BT. A lifetime supply of the stuff costs about $10 and has a 25 year shelf life after you open it. The third is called spinosad. Spinosad is also an insect disease. It is less selective and has been named as a possible problem for the loss of bees in the country. I use it only in granular form on fire ants. There are other insect killers that I do not use. I do not use them because I believe they are dangerous just like nicotine and hemlock are dangerous organic materials. Again, you only need to really care about numbers 1-4 above. Water, mow, feed, and keep the junk off the grass. St Augustine will send runners out into the yard to spread. It sends them out when the temps are in the 70s and 80s. Either side of that window and it stops spreading. Also St Aug has considerable shade tolerance. I would be thrilled to have 5 hours of sun on any part of my lawn in San Antonio. The sunniest area in my back is so dense I can only mow about a 6-inch swath at a time. This is not the 12-inch high grass. My wife wants this mowed like a real lawn, not an experimental test station.

Hang on a dad-gummed minute here..... I've gotten a lot of great advice on this forum and through the collective sharing of its members, found methods that work and those that don't. I believe that most of the information came from people whose real names, credentials, and education backgrounds are concealed behind the anonymity of their forum names and I am CERTAIN that 99% of them haven't been doing tests in laboratory environments or subjecting their findings to a scientific peer review board. I have also read complete silliness here. The point is that I could claim that drenching my roses in maple syrup makes them not only delicious, but has successfully prevented chili thrips in Illinois. You can post whatever you want on the internet & if you scream "LOOK AT ME" loud enough, some people [as Kim said] will take your word as gospel. On the other end of the spectrum we have scientists who require hard facts and evidence. I believe the majority of people are somewhere in the middle of those 2 extremes. In the last year I've seen a number of common household items touted as THE best cure for Omigosh-Fungus-Nightmare-Kill-It-Now, and I guess you can try them if you want, but seriously---I know what happens when I accidentally spill some of those "cures" on items inside or outside the house and I figured the risk was not worth the untested reward. If other folks want to venture into that realm, so be it, but at least fair warning has been given.

I'm guessing you have the Safer brand RTU product, which is expensive and tedious to apply. I have used Bonide (or other brand) dry micronized sulfur applied with a tank sprayer, with a little soap for a spreader-sticker. It is quite effective vs. PM and somewhat against blackspot. Sulfur is safer to handle than copper products. If you want to switch to a synthetic chemical, go to Lowe's and look for Bayer Rose, Flower and Shrub Disease Control (that exact name). It is effective if applied every 10-14 days.

swrancher - I tried lowe's, walgreens and my local nursery and they didn't have any copper fungicide. When I asked the people that worked there, they were clueless! This is very frustrating. Though, I do appreciate your suggestion. Thanks. Hopefully, I'll be able to locate some soon. Andrew - The Zebda Mango was in a greenhouse, then it was moved outside for a week (before I got my hands on it). It was mostly sitting in a shaded area, so not too much direct sunlight. But, my Graham Mango got the same treatment and it's doing fine. I sure do hope this copper fugicide (when I can find some!) does the trick. I would be very sad and disappointed if she didn't make it. Also, when spraying, I'll be sure to protect the soil with a covering. Bo