skip to main content

I'm still confused!!! (Pruning)

17 years ago

I've looked at websites, books, etc. and I still can't figure out how to prune clematis. I have group 2 and group 3 and usually do nothing. I always get beautful blooms but suspect I would be getting more if I pruned. Is there an easy way to understand how to prune? I'm wondering if the only way is to have someone stand right in front of my plant and show me!!!

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (6)

bob414
17 years ago
Aren't the blooms on your group 3 clematis getting pretty high ? If you are happy with things the way they are you don't have to prune, but you would get better results if you did. Here's what I do in zone 9. This month I prune all group 3 clematis by cutting each stem back to just above the lowest leaf node on that stem. All group 2 and group 3 I prune back the same way after they are through blooming. I get good rebloom on all of them. My method is not for the colder zones, but I can't see why it wouldn't work in zone 8. I think Jeanne is in zone 8 in Texas and she gets 3 bloom cycles a year on some clematis by this method. You can't permanently damage a plant by trying but you have to decide for yourself.
ocdgardener
Original Author
17 years ago
Okay - this helps. I haven't understood the process so I've just been too scared to do anything. I will give this a try. So, for now, if I understand correctly I don't need to do anything to the group 2 - just the group 3. Right? Thanks!!!
Related Discussions
still confused about onions more I read more confused
Q
Comments (10)
Onionology is complicated. Will try to clarify a little: First a little background: "onion" is a huge catch-all imprecise category encompassing a highly diverse clan, allium cepa and other allium species as well. What we are talking about here are bi-annual bulbing onions, grown from seed. All varieties of bulbing onions ultimately derive from the so-called "spanish" onion. They fall into two rough categories, long-day and short-day, based on how much daylight there is around the solstices where the plant is growing. So bulbing onions are highly sensitive to photo period. The first most important thing to know is whether your latitude is "short" day or "long" day. As it happens, Kentucky is kind of in the middle, either might work though long day is probably more likely to do well. There are also a few hybrid varieties called "intermediate" day that might do best of all for you. Short-day varieties are sown in fall and come to full size in late spring. They require more than just low latitude, they also require a mild winter climate, about z7b or warmer, so some regions of KY might work and others not. Long-day are sown soon after the winter solstice and planted out in early spring and are full size in mid to late summer, depending. An exception is the walla-walla which is adapted to the PNW and I think there may be one or two others long-days that can be fall-sown in mild northern climes. So the infamous "sets" are small bulbs grown from seed and then planted to grow for the plant's second season. The plant really wants to bolt and grow seed rather than a bulb. Sets are a scam perpetrated by seed companies. They are mostly a waste of time and space. Buy plants grown from seed in texas next year, they come at just the right time for planting out and the results will be far better.
...See More
still confused about blackberry and black rasberry pruning
Q
Comments (2)
Tip the laterals also. I8 inches is good. Cut off laterals off the main stem that are close to the ground. If they are 24 inches or less from the ground cut them off. If you don't, when they have fruit they will lay on the ground. There is no need to be on your knees to pick berries. Don't wait till next spring to do any pruning. Rember to cut off all canes at ground level when harvest is done.
...See More
As usual I;m confused.
Q
Comments (8)
What you have been doing IS deadheading. Deadhead means the same for roses, to remove the old bloom. Where you cut on the stem to remove the bloom is up to you. The "old way", and this really only applied to hybrid teas, is to cut above the first 5-leaflet leaf set (or lower). Now, some people just snap off the old bloom (grab the bloom in your hand, bend it at the neck and let it snap off), and let the new growth come where it wants. The first method creates longer stems and blooms, but the rebloom cycle is longer. The second method creates shorter stems and smaller blooms, but the rebloom cycle is shorter. Your choice. Try both ways, see what you like, then do what you like. I don't know about the Easy Feed. I've had a bottle that I've been using for 5 years now, I'll finish it up early this season.
...See More
I’m confused by 4 Masonry Contractors quotes for crack above garage
Q
Comments (7)
How old is the home? The cracks you see above windows going up usually caused when steel angle-iron starts to rust, you would see cracks like this. The crack in the mortar will usually be in stair-step up the wall pattern away from the opening. In most cases, the angle-iron will rust, causing the steel to expand as it deteriorates... It can expand up to 10 times the original thickness of steel and when that happens lintel should be replaced. The other crack that you see above the garage door could be a steel-angle settlement or twisting. If you have one 16 or 18' garage door (hard to tell from the picture) the steel angle-iron must be bolted to a structural back-up (a headed) that carries or supports the entire weight of the brick. There is no fabricated structural steel angle iron that can span 16 to 18' and support a significant amount of brick weight even if it's a few feet tall without sagging over time. You should also have weep holes above the steel angle so the moisture/water can escape and not being trapped there. I think the 1st and 3d contractor is right and repointing brick for 5k is a ridiculous price in comparison to $900 and even if you take the $900 deal and 1st and 3d contractor was right you will be throwing $900 into the wind... So IMO your best bet is to get a licensed engineer out there and it will worth $200 give or take and have him evaluate the issue and make a repair suggestion.
...See More
bob414
17 years ago
On group 2 you only have to trim out dead vines, or prune to shape if you desire.
jeanne_texas
17 years ago
Bob is correct...we have a longer growing season and get can more "bloom cycles" than our Northern Counterparts...I hard prune my pruning group 3's down again after they have finished blooming and fertilize...here is my Clematis "Venosa Violacea" after I hard pruned and fertilized her on Feb 14th last year
{{gwi:575324}}
If my pruning group 2's are newbies in my garden..I treat them as hard prune/3's the first pruning season after planting them and then treat them as 2's from then on..that allows them to get a bigger and more established root system...Jeanne
gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
17 years ago
And for yet a sligtly different approach......I prune both my 2's and 3's hard each spring (right about now, or as soon as I have time). It results in only a slight delay on the 2's. I don't prune again after the first flush, simply because my schedule at that time of year doesn't often allow it yet I still get a rebloom but perhaps not as heavy as I would if I did a tounch up. Type 3's in my climate are mid to late summer bloomers and will be in flower pretty much consistently until frost so I have never seen a need for any additional midseason pruning on them. There is just one long bloom season here for 3's, perhaps because our summers are very mild. Jeanne's summer heat may create a different bloom situation that further pruning improves.
ocdgardener
Original Author
17 years ago
Thanks everyone! This helps soooo much! I'll be hard pruing my 3s while I'm out there pruning my roses! I'll also prune the 2s after they do their thing in the spring! :)

Related Stories

WINTER GARDENING Pruning Secrets for Exquisite Roses

By Annie Thornton

Encourage gorgeous blooms year after year with this time-tested advice on how to prune your rosebush in winter for health and shape

GREEN BUILDING Let’s Clear Up Some Confusion About Solar Panels

By Mariana Pickering (Emu Building Science)

Different panel types do different things. If you want solar energy for your home, get the basics here first

GARDENING GUIDES How to Prune Your Flowering Shrubs for the Best Blooms

By Noelle Johnson Landscape Consulting

Less is often more when it comes to properly pruning flowering shrubs. Here’s what to do and why

GARDENING GUIDES Got Frost-Damaged Plants? How It Happens, and When and How to Prune

By Noelle Johnson Landscape Consulting

Crispy brown leaves are a sure sign that Jack Frost has been to your neighborhood

LANDSCAPE DESIGN Small Garden? You Can Still Do Bamboo

By Matt Kilburn

Forget luck. Having bamboo that thrives on a wee plot just takes planning, picking the right variety, and keeping runners in check

GARDENING GUIDES Boxwood: Still Shape-Shifting After 350 Years

By Mary Jo Bowling

Wild or mild, the humble boxwood still brings style and order to all kinds of gardens

WINTER GARDENING 6 Reasons I’m Not Looking Forward to Spring

By Benjamin Vogt / Monarch Gardens

Not kicking up your heels anticipating rushes of spring color and garden catalogs? You’re not alone

Ideabook 911: I Need Help Staging for Resale

By Becky Harris

CONTAINER GARDENS Container Garden Basics: How and When to Water Potted Plants

Confused about soil moisture, the best time to water and what watering device to use? This guide can help

EXTERIORS Help! What Color Should I Paint My House Exterior?

By Jennifer Ott Design

Real homeowners get real help in choosing paint palettes. Bonus: 3 tips for everyone on picking exterior colors

More Discussions

Atragenes, Alpinas for the south?

11

Anyone grow Brother Stefan?

6

Recommend a clematis for zone 6b please

7

Pruning of type 2?

1

Shade plant for base of Clematis? Help please?

1