Me too. I am confused.
I used to live in Jacksonville Florida many years ago and the soil is just what you described.
I did not know anything about growing citrus but I just thought with common sense.
I planted a calamondin directly to the ground in my backyard but it just dying so slowly. The leaves started to turn yellow and when I water the water just go down in the soil like in a sieve. The soil was that sandy. So I added some black soil and humus to the soil and my calamondin revived.
And when somebody asked the same way you did I adviced to to the same way I did it.
But Dr. Malcolm Manners said otherwise.
Who am I to contradict him?
He is the authority in citrus culture. I am just a backyard gardener.

If I'm not mistaken, the reason behind the mulch warnings has to do with HOW the mulch is applied, rather than an issue with the mulch itself. Citrus can be prone to rot caused by (among other things) placing mulch right up to the trunk of the tree. Phytophthora is a prime culprit.

This goes back to plain ol' good horticultural practices (again). NO woody plant should be mulched right up to the trunk, but try to get THAT word out, lol!

The benefits of a good layer of organic mulch around as much of the root system as possible, but at least 12 inches away from the trunk far outweigh any rot issues, I would think. As a matter of fact, organic mulches can help create the kind of soil climate which may foster some of the microorganisms that help a plant tolerate phytophthora (and other pathogens).

Thanks for your input. I guess I am confused about water. Perhaps Malcom's citrus orchards have dense canopies and the shade from neighoring trees is relative. My trees are still on the youngs side and with all the mistakes I've been making (unintended neglect) most of my canaopies are in some stage of recovering (not dense at all).

One of my concerns about mulch is the ability for leaves to stay hidden and unwanted spores and insects having a place to stay safe.

The easiest mulch for me to replace often are pine needles. But I'm wondering about pea gravel. Do you have any suggestions?

While we're sort of on the subject--the way I water is with a round sprinkler that I set near the trunk. My husband favors just watering near the truck and I reason that the whole area out to the drip line should be getting watered. Can someone help me on the subject of watering?

Thanks so much.

The older the trees are, the further out the root system will grow, including much further THAN the drip line. As a matter of fact, concentrating water just near the trunk is likely to invite rot problems.

Organic mulch helps buffer the soil (keeps it warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer), prevents evaporative loss of moisture, provides a beneficial environment for those very tender root initials (which do all the absorbing), and fosters a healthy microorganism population.

Pine straw makes an ideal mulch. Remember, spread it well away from the trunk (12 inches) and as far out as you can, beyond the drip line, if possible.

Remember, the root system of woody plants are very shallow and very wide spread. If we get the right picture in our mind of what's going on below the surface of the soil, it reminds us to try to do the right thing.

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:562662}}

edis.ifas.ufl.edu is the University of Florida AG website has lots of citrus docs, and would be more of an authority than most of us here. They have some documents suggesting mulch for citrus. I would think if it was well drained soil, an organic mulch would benefit in multiple ways, including improving the soil. Pine needles could affect soil PH, one thing to think about.

Gary

Now that I saw that picture of the roots I can see why my trees look so stressed.

The mulch under four trees has been removed for over two weeks. Those trees are dropping their leaves like crazy. The four trees that I didn't get to de-mulching aren't dropping their leaves or looking stressed. It sure is a good thing I asked my question in here as soon as I did--those poor trees have been trying to survive in a kiln.

No problem mulching way outside the drip line--there is no grass in the citrus tree area.
Thanks so much!

Pine needles actually decompose to a nearly neutral pH and don't affect the pH as dramatically as some people think. The great thing about pine straw (other than the obvious soil/root stuff) is that it's the one mulch with proven abilities to hinder the germination of some seeds (including some weeds).

Just remember: keep the mulch away from the trunk!

I've read both things, it does and doesn't reduce PH. A UF guy spoke at our rare fruit group last month saying it does. And also if you plant blueberries in pine bark, the roots might not leave the bark. Can't say myself, except I've got pines, and acid soil.

Gary