Agree that it is herbicide damage but that is some poor looking soil too and why is there no mulching around the plants? Surely by now your soil has warmed enough to mulch. maybe the city was spraying the grass? Call the city. If so then insist on a warning next time so the plants can be covered. None of my other plants are affected (cucumbers, broccoli, etc). Tomato plants are 10x more susceptible than other vegetables. Other than that both neighbours have tall wood fences so I would imagine that would stop any kind of spray from traveling? Not at all. The many other discussions here about herbicide drift problems talk about drift patterns and the long distances it travels if you want to read through them. So ask the neighbors and insist on a warning next time so you can cover your plants. if you mixed one part vinegar and 3 parts water with dish soap and sprayed it on your plant it would get rid of them. That recipe is one of the standard weed killer recipes - 1 part vinegar to 3 parts water with 1 T dish soap - not a pesticide. The pesticide recipe is 1 T dish soap in 1 gallon of water (no vinegar) although it isn't usually listed as effective for caterpillars. One needs to evaluate the sources of such info carefully before using and to test on one plant before applying randomly. Is it possible that is what did the damage? Unlikely as the yellowing pattern of the leaves in pic 2 is classic Glyphosate damage. What can you do? Keep them well watered, mulch them. Trim off the worst of the damage, do NOT feed them until you see new growth, and then hope for the best. Sometimes they grow out of it. Dave Here is a link that might be useful: 2-4D weed killer damage on tomato plant pics

Many people spray fungicide weekly a preventive measure from the day their tomatoes go outside. It's no guarantee, but it can delay disease onset and lessen disease speed and severity so that you can get a good harvest from your plants. There are organic options. Re: "worms"--Btk (Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki) is a biological option that will take care of caterpillars (most "worm" pests on tomatoes are the caterpillars of moths) without harming anything else, as it's a very specific pesticide. If you have problems with "worms" in your fruits year after year, I'd spray regularly from when fruiting starts. I'd spray the whole plant, since a lot of caterpillars start off on foliage but start eating the fruit as well, but take extra care to spray well around the sepals at the top of the fruits as they develop, as that's where tomato fruitworm moths specifically like to lay their eggs. The caterpillars have to eat the Bt in order for it to work--it's not a contact poison--so if you don't get them right as they're starting to burrow into the fruit, you've missed your window. Once inside fruit, it's hard to kill them with anything. So regular application and refreshing the application after rain is important. To help out and attract bees, interplant flowering plants attractive and helpful to native bees and select the species so that there's always something they like flowering in your garden. IIRC, you are in Aus? (You might want to enter your location and zone in the "zone" field of the "advanced" profile options) I'm sure you can google "pollinator garden" for your specific region and come up with ideas on what to plant. If space is an issue, you can plant in pots and move them around as needed. Tomatoes need buzz pollinators, not honeybees, and IIRC buzz pollinators in Aus. are, like here in the US, usually ground-dwelling solitary native bees.

" I actually think it's when true leaves are adapted to the lower radiation levels of artificial indoor light that the plant becomes prone to sun damage. I would guess that, as soon as the growing tip starts producing the first indications of true leaves, that's when you have to start being super careful about sun damage." I'd agree if for no other reason than the cotyledons alone aren't capable of photosyn, only the true leaves. But many times that distinction isn't included in the advice. Shoot I have lost trays of young seedlings sitting in the greenhouse from sunburn, much less outside. What I take issue with is the broad statements made on so many blogs. Utube and even sometimes here, that putting your seedling out in full sun is no problem - no guidelines, no qualifications, no age guidelines, no distinction between full sun in AZ vs. full sun in MN, etc. Newbies read those claims and next thing you know they have a tray full of sun and wind burned plants or dead ones and want to know what happened to them. There is a thread running on this right now over on Vegetable Gardening with pics of young seedlings that were put outside early on and the damage that happened. So the safest approach is to not do it unless you are experienced and really know what you are doing and if you are going to do it be prepared to possibly lose some of your seedlings. If you have 200 of them it is no big deal but if you only started 10-12 plants it can literally wipe you out. But people get impatient and they don't want to bother with proper hardening off procedures. Their choice but they have to pay the price. Dave

Hey Matt thanks for the response, yes west coast as in Vancouver. So cooler weather, although we’ve been having warm weather lately around 28 Celsius ( low 80’s F). I will keep an eye on the pup and repot once he is a foot tall. I don’t have any real expectation with how much I’d like to grow my parent plant maybe 3 or 4 feet max if I’m lucky (especially since our winters are so dark and often gloomy). I’ve never repotted any plant before, so I am just keeping an eye out on the tell tale signs like roots coming out of drainage holes (however when I stick my finger in the soil to check for moisture it feels like I am touching roots but my guess is that’s due to the pups)