HI, i dont at the moment but would recommend a couple websites for you... www.cpjungle.com i just ordered from them and am waiting for them to ship my plants and have heard great reviews about the (delayed shipping due to cold weather) www.cobraplant.com they are really friendly people and can help with many of your cp questions and they also own a nursery that sells lots of cps, they are one of my favorite nurseries... also check out www.ccpgs.proboards.com this is a forum put up by kamil and its mainly aimed towards cp growers but, other plant growers are welcome too, we can help answer questions about your plants too, im known as 'dustin' there hope this helps dustin

Hello Nycti, Thanks for the compliment on the plant, it (and all of my others) was from Sarracenia Northwest too. It is under 12000 lumen light. The VFT I have is just an inch away from the light and right in the center of the light fixtures so it gets maximum light from both sides. When I get a window set up I will place all my plants there with the extra light from the florescents for the North American species... and eventually move them outside when possible. The Butterwort would like similar conditions to the Nepenthes in watering, they root rot quite easily too when overwatered. Just keep their soil moist the same as the Nepenthes, water them both about twice a week and remove runoff water. The VFT like being in a tray of water, just not too high. About like what a sundew gets... a 3 inch pot should be in about 1/2 inch of water. The problem is when the water level gets over 1/4 to half way up the pot as the VFT roots really like some air.. they just like the very tips of their roots near water. If you upgrade the pot to a 5 inch, just leave an inch of water in the tray and top it up when it gets low, top water the plant to allow draining water to wash its roots and draw air down into the soil, they like that. When your able, about 5 inch pots would be good for most of your plants to give them growing room, though, as you can see, I should have upgraded the Nepenthes sanguinea to a 8-10 inch wide pot sooner as all its lower pitchers have no support. Each tube in the fixture will be 3200 as the package says, so four would be 12000 or more like mine. If possible, place the light near the brightest window you have and put the VFT right in the window as close as you can and only a few inches from the lights, but far enough away to get sunlight from the window. It will thank you for as much light as you can provide. VFT and Sarracenias all need about the same light as garden plants, full sun, which supplies them with well over twice to three times the light those twin shop lights could give them. 12000 lumens is really a bare minimum for just surviving for VFT and they might not even get enough energy to overwinter with that. They tend to slowly degrade in most indoor setups. At least with mine I got seedlings going, so if the adult does not make it until I get a better setup, I will at least have my young ones to tend to. Nepenthes can be rather difficult when you first get them in a new environment. Give the plant what it needs and give it time and it will adapt. Just keep adapting it for low humidity and keep giving it all the florescent light you can (12000 lumens). Nepenthes ventricosa can adapt to high light levels but prefer partial light like under a slightly shaded tree. Florescent light will have little of the potential for leaf burn, so just hit it with all those lights you can. It sounds like the pitchers are dying on you if it is just the tendril tip dying off and the pitcher browning. That is a combination of low humidity changes too quicky, low light, and possible temperature differences. If the temperature indoors is consistent, at what we humans like at about 70-80 degrees, the plant should be fine in that. That leaves humidity and light. They can adapt to low humidity fine, but if you are adapting the plant slowly, raising the dome a fraction of an inch every 3 days, it should not be experiencing such a humidity shock as that, particularly in an aquarium. The yellowing is often brought on by too much light, but that cant be right with only 6000 lumens. N. sanguinea and N. ventricosa both prefer similar conditions and mine is under 12000 lumens and doing great with only some reddening on its leaves due to high light. Yellowing occurs on its bottom most leaves just before they begin dying of old age. If all of the leaves on your plant are yellowing, it leaves me puzzled as to why unless something else in the environment is affecting it. So far as central air, just place the plants where the air is not directly hitting them. Mine are in a small apartment in zone 9 Texas with central air keeping the apartment at about 77 degrees. What air they get does not affect them as long as they are across the room from vents.

Hello caelith, Also make sure that the plant gets plenty of light in winter. A Nepenthes that does not get enough light will stop pitchering or simply fail to produce more pitchers. A 12 hour florescent shop light with 40 watt cool white tubes in a twin mount would provide 6000 lumens for the plant and keep it going well over winter if your windows do not give it long enough photoperiods. You could fertilize it to kick start its pitchering process, but be careful with fertilizer. Only use 1/4 strength or weaker foliar feed... almost any regular fertilizer would do, but the best would be Orchid blood meal that is water soluble. Only use it about once a month until you see pitchers growing in. Just don't get any in the soil. Overfertilizing the leaves could cause leaf burn and damage new pitchers too. Nepenthes often loose lower leaves and move their growth point up, leaving a brown woody vine as they grow longer. Cutting them back can reduce the incidence of mold.

It is not uncommon for any plant to lose leaves or otherwise "sulk" for a bit when radically changing environments. If the seller was growing the plant in a greenhouse, the plant may have been used to a more humid envir than what you are now providing, and pitcher loss can result from such a change. But not to worry, the plant can adjust over time. If the new pitcher is still growing, then don't worry. They don't inflate until most of the vertical growth is done. Just be patient.