Supersoil in a purple bag has a soil additive that is full of everything and really breaks down the clay soil. Ants are a pain and they go up into the plants and trees and bring disease and fungus. A gal told me for the fruit trees to pu a layer of masking tape around the tree and put Tanglefoot with a popsicle stick on the tape to catch the ants. Yesterday I put vinegar on the sidewalk where I saw alot of ants and it also gets the weeds in the cracks on the sidewalk but can also burn the grass or plants so just on the sidewalk. I've tried all the granuals with no luck but I was just reading about stakes in the ground to kill ants and that might be a good thing..

"...to correct this..." and "...concerned about the clay".

Sounds like somebody told you clay was "incorrect" and "bad".

It's not. Clay is good. Clay hold nutrients and moisture. Many plants, including roses and citrus to name a few, actually LOVE clay. Hundreds (thousands?) of plants prefer clay to lighter soils. The ultimate answer in cases of extreme soil is to plant those plants that prefer (or at least tolerate) the kind of soil you have.

Adding something to the soil (amending it) is a short term answer in most cases.

Compaction, on the other hand, is an issue. The answer here is to simply break it up (rent a good, big tiller).

But do check on drainage. Poor drainage is usually the culprit when plants do poorly in "heavy" soils. Do a perc test. Dig a 1'x1'x1' hole, fill it with water and let it drain. Fill it up again and mark the time it takes for it to empty. If it drains within a half-hour, you're okay. If it takes a couple of hours, you're having problem. If the water is still in the hole the next day, you have a real drainage problem. And amending the soil is not going to help.

With a drainage issue, the answer is at least a vertical drain (cistern) and possibl an entire French drain system.

With that aside, there are three instances where you do want to amend the soil.

a. When planting woodland plants (camellias, azaleas, ferns, etc.). They like a very organic soil and it doesn't have to be all that deep. Also, don't "spot" amend -- digging some fluffy stuff into individual holes for individual plants. For a good woodland bed, dig up the whole bed and amend the whole bed.

b. When planting annual flowers. Same as above.

c. When planting annual vegetables. Same as above.

In all cases, mulching -- placing organic matter on TOP of the soil -- is very beneficial.

Joe

Ants are a two-edged sword.

On the one hand, they do help break down organic matter on and in the soil, they do help aerate the soil, and they do feed on detrimental soil organisms.

On the other hand, they do get into the house and become a nusiance and, worse, they do become the "shepherds" of sucking insects (aphids, mealybug, scale). They tend to them, moving them from plant to plant and protecting them from predators and parasites. They don't spread disease.

Poisoning them is a bit extreme. But you should make sure to keep them from getting into your plants to become they shepherd they want to be. And keep an eye out for them in the house.

Joe

Just about the best way to help your soil is to add lots of compost on top. Homemade compost is free! And it uses up grass clippings, leaves, and other things that might end up in the landfill, otherwise. I've also been putting down a layer of coffee grounds, courtesy of the "Grounds for Gardeners" program of Starbucks.

The ants are the Argentine ant, an introduced species that has pretty much taken over CA. It's important to keep them out of citrus trees. Here's some information, including less and non toxic control methods:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/TOOLS/ANTKEY/argentine.html