Patio shade tree for Sunset Zone 17
jaf1953
8 years ago
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iris_gal
8 years agocalistoga_al ca 15 usda 9
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Shade Trees - zone 5 - Southeastern Wisconsin
Comments (7)You found some good ones, some mediocre ones and one to definitely avoid. Starting with my personal favs... Northern Red Oak. Huge tree. Fast growing. very desirable. Godd fall color. Big leaves Bur oak. The same but without the fall color and not as fast growing. Amalanchier (aka serviceberry) very nice tree. It is a small tree. I'd recommend it for use with a small grouping of them for massing effect of the flowers, berries and fall foliage. You should note however that these send up suckers big time which means you'll have to get out there 2-3 times a season to cut them unless you want it to turn into a multistemmed colony. Would also make a nice specimen tree for a small front yard. The hawthorns can be variable. The best on the market right now is probably winter king. It's another small tree with a wide-spreading canopy. Freemans maple is a cross between an undesirable species, silver maple and a desireable species, red maple. This hybrid is advantageous for folks out west with alkaline soils that silver maple tolerates but red maple doesn't. If this soil issue is not a concern for you, I would recommend red maple instead. There are countless cultivars like october glory, red sunset and the list goes on and on. There are some issues I have with autumn blaze maples but I won't get into that. Hackberry. On the blah side. Has some issues with pest/disease but tolerant of tough sites. Not the most ornamental of the bunch but wildlife is attracted to the fruit. Norway maple is an exotic maple that has become a pest species in a portion of the country. They are slow growing and usually have poor to fair fall color. They come in all shapes and sizes though. Most look like a dense lollipop. A far better alternative to norway maple is sugar maple. Depending on the use, sugar maple is not a good choice such as for a street tree as they are not as tolerant of road salts and urban stresses. I don't know if that's an issue though. Personally, I'd plant a sugar maple instead and ask your nursery why they are selling an invasive species like norway maple. If you want more of a lollipop with med-fast rate of growth, October Glory Red Maple. Ask for it by name....See MoreNeed a shade tree for patio in Zone 8, Almost 9
Comments (1)Is that a crape myrtle that is on the edge? If so, and if you are severely pruning it each year, stop pruning it and let it grow to be the tree you want....See MoreFruits & Veggies in Sunset Zone 11 (Palmdale)
Comments (8)I have had limited success with regular containers. The problem for me was that the containers dried out unless they were watered twice per day, however, when they were watered twice per day, too many nutrients were washed away. I switched to Self-Watering containers from Gardeners.com: http://www.gardeners.com They have many types of self-watering containers, but item #35-901 has worked the best for me. Self-watering containers keep your soil evenly moist without washing away any of the nutrients. Because of the even moisture combined with retaining soil nutrients, my self watering container plants are 2-3 times the size of my in-ground plants. The soil in self-watering containers needs to be able to wick moisture from the water reservoir, so I use the following mix for 1 self-watering container (40 qts). Approximately 20qts sphagnum peat moss and 20qts of compost.  A couple of cups of perlite  1/3 cup of blood meal (nitrogen)  1/3 cup of green sand (potassium)  1/3 cup of colloidal phosphate (phosphorus)  1 tablespoon of azomite  I also mix in some Limestone to counter act the acidity of the peat moss. I have also tried Container Soil and general purpose organic fertilizer. This worked well, but not as well as the custom mix. Good Luck and let me know how it goes. Fernando...See MoreFast growing medium sized deciduous patio shade tree for south bay, CA
Comments (13)5x7 seems awfully small. The roots of anything you plant will quickly fill that area and begin to grow into the surrounding soil, under the paving. We have a Trident maple in our yard, planted as a tiny seedling about thirteen years ago. It was selected from a collection of volunteers from a gorgeous mother tree and we hoped that the gene pool was a strong one. We crossed our fingers for a great natural infrastructure or beautiful fall color.....we got both. The seedling was about two feet tall when I transplanted it into a bark based potting medium to grow for a year before planting it in our side yard. It was about three feet tall when planted in the ground. It's now approx. 30 feet tall by 25 feet wide, with a diameter of 14 inches. (I asked my husband to go out and look.) We plant directly into hard, red Alabama clay soil with no irrigation under two to three inch layer of mixed wood mulch that we increase the radius of every year as the tree shades out more of the lawn. It does get watered during periods of serious drought, maybe a handful of times a year, at most. I live in Northern Alabama (6b-7a), with coldish winters and I consider this a pretty sunny part of the country.....certainly not gloomy. There are no visible surface roots and no driveway buckling. I asked my husband about the mature Tridents where he works and he said that there are no pesky surface roots. He's the Director of Horticulture and Landscaping at a local university in our city, so notices those kinds of things. However, all bets are off regarding behavior of any kind considering that very small planting site....See Moregardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
8 years agocalistoga_al ca 15 usda 9
8 years agoprincesspea
8 years agojaf1953
8 years agoKentLC
8 years agoEmbothrium
8 years agojakkom
8 years agostanofh 10a Hayward,Ca S.F. bay area
8 years ago
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hoovb zone 9 sunset 23