I live in the DFW area of Texas... I recently put my Aloe Vera plant outside on my back porch, slightly shady... south facing... And recently i had to cut off 4 large leaves because they were turning this yucky brownish red. Almost looked like sunburn. I'm worried for my plant's health... and also, why is it not growing as fast as other users report?

Please help.

It may be sunburn, but if it is slightly shady, it should be okay. Is it getting too much water? Mine turn a brownish color if they start rotting. Was it mushy brown inside? That's rot.

Maja127, aloes have a root system. You can propagate with cuttings or seed. They will flower if they get enough sun and a cold period. Your cold may be too cold though. Mine have survived two freezes, but they were brief and mild - as in literally only 32oF and only for a short time. Mine flowered for the first time this year after allowing it to remain in the elements. You need free draining soil whether in pot or in the ground. I use the national brand cactus and succulent soil with a lot more aggregate added. You can use pea pebbles or unpainted fishtank pebbles. I use this stuff called OilDri from Sam's Club. You can also used sifted, washed decomposing granite. If you put in ground, I would dig a hole that is three times as deep and wide as what you are putting in and back fill with your soil mixture. I don't think you have the harsh clay there that we have here in Houston. You should be fine with this.

To separate,just take out of the pot, wash off all of the soil, and find where the pups are shooting off the main plant. You should see very definite rosettes of stalks so that you'll know where to cut. Use a clean, sterilized knife to cut straight through the plant making sure that you keep roots with each cutting. At this point you can plant them in the soil, but don't water. Wait a week or so before you do so. I personally leave mine sitting in the shade for a week before I replant. They hold enough water to survive a VERY LONG time without water. When Rita came through in September of 05, I put mine in a garage and forgot about it until April of 06. I put it out and left it alone. I gave it one drink and let mother nature do the rest. It looked pitiful! It's the same one that flowered this spring for me! Anyway, I leave it out so the cut wound can callous (standard procedure for all succulent cuttings). I then put it in slightly damp soil and wait another week before I start watering. If you get a lot of rain during any period of time, I would move it to where you control the water. Good luck. I started with just a few, but it soon turned into a major obsession. I have succulents and cactus all over the place now!

AG - That is not "almost like a sunburn"...it IS a sunburn. Succulents love sun...but they *must* be acclimated first.

M127 - Let me see if I can answer a few of your q's. First gently remove your plant and wash all the soil from the roots. This should reveal any pups attached to the mom. You can cut these off - leave as much stump and root attached to each one as is possible. Cut off all the mushy roots and leave only the good white ones. Leave mom and all the pups sitting out in a dry, cool, shady spot for a day or two to allow the cuts to callus over (this is to avoid root rot). For soil use a sharp mix, very well draining. I use 50/50 organic potting soil and haydite, but you can use decomposed granite, Perlite, Oil-Dri, Turface, etc. A *real* nursery should be able to help you select a proper "grit". Drainage is key to happy succulents. I recommend unglazed clay pots because they dry faster. As to watering, this depends on roots: those pups with established roots will need more water...plants w/no roots need little and should be watered carefully until you see evidence of root growth (I would probably mist these every other day). General rule: water completely and let dry well between waterings. For light, plants with no roots will need more shade than those able to drink. Acclimate them to the sun slowly. A few days with bright shade, then move to partial sun then full sun. When your plants begin to color up if you dont like the color, move it back into more (afternoon) shade. Those plants placed in (western) windows should be turned one quarter each week to avoid leaning into the light. If you are going to put any in-ground choose a spot that is well-draining or a raised bed or ammend with lots of "grit" for drainage. Once established, I think you'll find these plants quite hardy...though not to freezes so you will have to move them in for winter. Good Luck. HTH -
Jo

Aloes do change color in bright sun; it's sort of what they do instead of tanning. Unless the leaves are also dead and squishy, or have black spots, etc., they're probably fine. The color will go away when they're moved to lower light. It's a good idea to ease plants gradually into outdoor light -- even shade outdoors is a lot brighter than full sun indoors; some plants (even cacti) will scorch if they're not brought into it a little bit at a time.

maja127:

I'm not really an Aloe expert, but I do know that Aloes usually reproduce by offsetting: a small underground stem grows horizontally a short distance and then a new plant begins at the tip of that. So probably what you've got is a clump that is all from a single individual.

Each stem should be capable of making it on its own, especially if you can divide it such that some of the roots stay with each section, but to my mind, offsetting rosette-shaped plants like this look better when they're in smallish clumps. Maybe three to a pot, or something. Be sure to put the new divisions into the smallest pots they'll fit in, preferably clay, in very well-draining soil: too much dirt in a pot can keep roots from getting the air they need to function.

Plants offset when they decide it's time; I'm not aware of any way to make it happen. Some species are more inclined to do it than others (if you want a fast offsetter, look for Aloe 'Crosby's Prolific').

Aloes do have roots, though yours will also have horizontal sections (which can be pulled or cut apart) connecting the stems to one another.

I have no idea about outdoor care / temperatures.

That was a little spooky.

I agree...I think we were all typing at the same time! LOL!

Spooky or not... at least you have both given me terrific information. Thanks so much. Before I do anything, I'll find the correct soil. I don't think I'll plant it outside, maybe place the pots out there till it gets too cold. I don't have many spots in my house with good sunlight.

Can I just add a couple of things to what is a good set of advice?

I disagree w/ the advice given twice here to WASH off all the old soil. I wouldn't do this as it wets the roots when about to pot (I'd be concerned abt potential for root rot).

I grow abt 10 diff. Aloes (indoors only), I NEVER WASH off the old roots. I find if handled when dry, it works fine to just crumble or shake off all the old mix & change to new. I'm not sure abt hardiness, but many, if not most Aloes are pretty tough & rugged plants. That said, I encourage those new to them not to worry or be anxious abt this: short of overwatering & rot from that, many Aloes can withstand fairly rough treatment.

PG -
If she were going to pot up right away I might agree. But I encouraged her to rinse, cut and allow to dry/callus. I've never had rot following this procedure.
Whether she shakes or rinses...the idea is to get the nursery dirt off before potting up and on that we can agree.
Jo